The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.
Staff member
basics, this engine would NOT be for anything but weekend bracket racing.
ideally youll find a 2400 lb- 2800 lb or lighter weight car.

keep in mind the higher the power to weight ratio and the better the suspension is tuned to allow
the tires to maintain great content traction, the better the car tends to perform,
reducing weight is generally more effective, than minimal increases in power.
(remember to install top quality disc brakes, and the largest tires you can afford in most applications,

consistent to the applications requirements.
remember that race car design is heavily dependent on getting the drive train gearing, matched too the tires, traction, use of the suspension, to maximize the power to weight ratio , and use of brakes and aerodynamics
the basics of a general race engine is to MAXIMIZE air flow rates, compression and displacement,

and DURABILITY, you need to finish a race to win it!
these choices linked below should max the power too weight ratio,
at a semi reasonable cost, using easily available ,
well matched, components.
getting to a 4 lb-to-5 lb per hp should not be all that difficult if proper choices are made,,

and this potentially will provide excellent performance.

Brodix dragon slayer 225cc heads

edelbrock single plane


cam with matched solid roller lifters, tall valve covers a rocker girdle and 1.5:1 roller rockers

short block

obviously headers and oil pan should match car its installed into,
a windage tray and 8 quart baffled oil pan would be generally required ,
and a 4.11:1 rear gear and a manual transmission, with a 3800 lb rated weber, zoom,
or hays, (good quality )11" clutch and a 36 lb billet steel flywheel.
IF you choose an auto trans youll want a 4000 rpm stall speed converter
youll want a decent ignition, you could go old school, with a vertex magneto ,
or the newer individual coil per cylinder , ignition preferred.
.042 quench,and about 11.3:1 compression, race octane fuel, mandatory.
Id use a properly jetted, 850 cfm holley carb.
Id use 1 3/4" long tube headers, ideally with 38" long primaries, and a 3.5" x 20" collector.
a combo like that should after correctly sorting it uot break into the 9's or at least very low 10s




on most more modern cars theres no easy to access place to hook a tow strap
so if you intend to trailer and race any car it makes a great deal of sense to customize or bolt or weld on substantial loops or rings too the lower frame where a tow strap can be securely clipped in place to tow or secure the car too a trailer




extended tow loops can be added too the forward and rear frame rails on the cars corners, by welding or bolting , to allow secure towing or tie downs on a trailer, these come in dozens of sizes and designs

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