adding fender or wheel well flares, and related info

Discussion in 'Body and Interior: Repairs and Modifications' started by grumpyvette, Sep 23, 2009.

  1. grumpyvette

    grumpyvette Administrator Staff Member

    69MYWAY posted this install list posted below, its pretty much similar to the route Ive gone several times so use its info, the only major differences Ive done is use POP RIVETS to temporarily hold the fender flares in place and the rivets need to be drilled out later, and Ive used resin/hardener and talc mixed with fine cut glass fiber as a bondo replacement.
    keep in mind the fender flares serve a function, they not only look slightly more AGGRESSIVE, in some applications they prevent a great deal of road crud and micro bits of tire and brake dust from flinging up on the fenders and in some cases only tires that fit (INSIDE the WHEEL WELLS) are legal to run in some race classes.
    do yourself a HUGE favor and think long and hard about this mod, it usually requires cutting the wheel well openings larger,and because its difficult to reverse, back to the original look and requires a lot of work and repainting the car to do it correctly.
    done correctly it looks really nice on some cars IF its not taken to extremes, and done so it looks like a factory option, done badly it looks horrible!
    remember you DON,T NEED THIS MUCH FLARE
    reading links and sub linked info may not be fun,
    but you may be amazed at the amount of wasted time and money,
    you can save from being wasted with the info gained in the process
    you may not find the link you need, specifically,
    but the info you do read, should make you think,
    and question the process, ask the related questions,
    and look at all your options carefully.
    and yes if your installing a suspension, measure accurately several times..
    assume nothing is correct until its carefully verified several times,
    and yes your very likely to make mistakes,
    so Id suggest you measure with the suspension and tires sitting on the ground,
    before, you decide on tires, clearances , Finnish welding of the suspension links , spring perches, drive shaft angles etc. are finalized/ begins
    I love the convenience of hot staples used in SMC ,
    (corvettes use this rather than true fiber glass in many years)
    but Ive had a few rare times when they failed to provide enough structural rigidity
    I borrowed the tool from a friend, who had one and raves about it recently, I don,t own one yet!
    I've usually gone old school and grind and fill the area with screen. in the past
    shop carefully it comes in 10ft and 100 ft long rolls and in 24"-36"-and 48" wide rolls the larger rolls cost nearly $200 the smaller 24" and 10 ft long rolls are far more reasonably priced and its also good for shrapnel screens in lifter gallerys
    Jackson Wire11061715 Redi-Roll Hardware Cloth,on EBAY 1/8" x 48" x 10' $32 a roll, easily enough to do a dozen engines, shrapnel screens ,plus a few fiber glass repairs
    [​IMG] ... /100195886
    [​IMG] ... /202220499
    at times when repairing fiber glass cutting a 1.5" wide strip of #8 hardware cloth screen thats an inch longer than the crack your repairing so the reinforcing screen extends 3/4" past the crack, on all sides, to allow that screen acting like re-bar in concrete, a firm anchor into the surrounding material,and epoxying it below the surrounding surface, on both sides of a crack and then covering it with chopped mat and resin can add a great deal of additional strength if you find the area repeatedly gets cracked helps a great deal, yeah, it takes a bit of belt sander or die grinder time, too lower the surface enough to allow the screen to be place and held below the surface so its properly epoxied in place below the surrounding area, and youll need a face mask, and face shield, and dust mask,and goggles, you don,t want to breath fine ground glass dust, or get it in your eyes
    tools like this make grinding out fiber glass fairly fast and easy in experienced hands

    the fact that you place the screen embedded and epoxied on both sides , of the crack prevents it from easily flexing, and adds a great deal more strength in areas you can access to do this.
    Don,t be afraid to grind out SMC or fiberglass its very easy to work with and very strong when properly worked and layered, your local professional auto body supply's will have both materials and tools and advice. ... evlar.html ... 7AodkGYANw

    The process is as follows.

    1. Hand mount flare on car, position to desired location.
    2. Tape in place, then zip screw in place.
    3. trace around flare with a nice sharpie
    4. pull flare off, measure 3/4" below the trace line for the cut line
    5. Cut the fender off at the cut line (ouch this hurts, because there is no turning back now).
    6. Grind the back side of flare and fender
    7. Mix a mild fiberglass reinforced filler (long strand).
    8. Smear filler on the 3/4" lip
    9. Push flare on car, and rivet through the mounting points
    10. Push and smear the filler in tight from top and bottome.
    11. Grind excess, and mix more filler for rivet dimples.
    12. Grind again, and put one layer of fiberglass matt over the joint.
    13. Grind high spots
    14. Now start will regular light weight body filler
    15. Long block at all different angles
    16. Skim filler
    17. Primer
    18. block primer
    19. More primer
    20. Guide coat and spot fill
    21. YOu are ready to move on to the next project.


    viewtopic.php?f=71&t=533&p=667&hilit=back+spacing+wheel#p667 ... molds.html ... index.html ... 0002r18854 ... 7ded721019 ... Flares.htm ... index.html

    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 8, 2018
  2. grumpyvette

    grumpyvette Administrator Staff Member


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