Another 383 build...

DorianL · Sep 22, 2016

Why do you prefer the square extractor?

busterrm · Sep 22, 2016

Just seems to work better for me! With those plugs I'd use one size of the square in the plug, if you drill the hole the right size you can drive the shaft of the easeout into the square and have better hold on the plug, and use leverage of a cresent wrench. Push and release pressure, repeat over and over till breaks loose, don't push all out, every now and then tap it with a hammer, also tap the block.

Loves302Chevy · Sep 22, 2016

DorianL said:
Well i tried heating with propane and spaying WD40 but I chickened out with my 1/4-inch drive. I know SnapOn has a tool for this. Like a 1/4-inch drive but heavy duty.
I'll see if I can locate one this weekend

You are trying to do as much as you can so you are not paying the machine shop.
They have all the tools and tricks for getting those stuck plugs out.
Don't invest a lot of your time and money into them - they will take care of it.

If you can't find the rear main cap, then the block will have to be align-bored. More $$$.

A wire wheel in a drill motor works fine for removing the rust. Wear a dust mask.
If they have the block cleaner that heats the block and blasts it with abrasive, then you
don't have to do anything. It will come out like brand new.
The old style Jet Cleaner is basically a dishwasher for engine parts.
They used to use Oakite for a cleaner - no more. Needless to say, they don't do as
good of a job as they used to.

You really want oxy-acetylene to rapidly heat the area around the plug (not the plug itself).
That way the surrounding area expands while the plug remains cooler.
The special square impact socket + impact gun usually gets those out alone.
Only the really stubborn ones need the extra heat.

busterrm · Sep 22, 2016

Loves302Chevy said:
If you can't find the rear main cap, then the block will have to be align-bored. More $$$.

If that's the case I'd buy a full set of main caps. Here's something to think about, with all the maching costs adding up, Summit sells a already prepped roller block already bored and clearanced with 1 pc rms for 700 bux. Shipping to you in Belgium, cheapest 345 bux, all machine work done for about 1050 bux.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-150100-30/overview/

DorianL · Sep 23, 2016

busterrm said:
If that's the case I'd buy a full set of main caps. Here's something to think about, with all the maching costs adding up, Summit sells a already prepped roller block already bored and clearanced with 1 pc rms for 700 bux. Shipping to you in Belgium, cheapest 345 bux, all machine work done for about 1050 bux.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-150100-30/overview/

Now this is interesting... This might actually save me $$$.

So it is already over-bored 030... does it need to be honed for a perfect clearance with the over-sized 030 pistons?

It's ready to take on factory style roller cam... but how is this a saving?

With my old block, the machine shop would have to clean, align bore, deck and over-bore, yank plugs and drive out the cam bearings... somewhere along the way, I'd still need to check the block for cracks before most of the machining... haul the block around...

Hm, as romantic as it is rebuilding a block that I have had for years... I suspect that I may be way ahead getting this

busterrm · Sep 23, 2016

yes it's bored, you'd have to measure bores and pistons to get exact clearance. look at the add it tells all.

busterrm · Sep 23, 2016

DorianL said:
Now this is interesting... This might actually save me $$$.

So it is already over-bored 030... does it need to be honed for a perfect clearance with the over-sized 030 pistons?

It's ready to take on factory style roller cam... but how is this a saving?

With my old block, the machine shop would have to clean, align bore, deck and over-bore, yank plugs and drive out the cam bearings... somewhere along the way, I'd still need to check the block for cracks before most of the machining... haul the block around...

Hm, as romantic as it is rebuilding a block that I have had for years... I suspect that I may be way ahead getting this

what will rear main cap, core plugs, oil galley plugs, and cam bearings cost? just an idea, look at the ad, that stuff is done.
just check all specs on the block, we do it anyway.

busterrm · Sep 23, 2016

DorianL said:
It's ready to take on factory style roller cam... but how is this a saving?

Thats not really, just added bonus!

DorianL · Sep 23, 2016

It doesn't say if it is honed - unless I am missing it. I always thought you needed to do that for the last few thousandths.

Yes... plugs are done. I don't have to get another rear cap

This looks like a good way to go.

chromebumpers · Sep 23, 2016

Request that the block be "re-inspected" prior to shipping. You don't want a rusty block. It's honed

DorianL · Sep 23, 2016

chromebumpers said:
Request that the block be "re-inspected" prior to shipping. You don't want a rusty block. It's honed

Ah! Thanks!

DorianL · Sep 23, 2016

Woohoo... cam bearings included!

DorianL · Sep 23, 2016

And clearanced for stroker...

busterrm · Sep 23, 2016

I would mike the bores, mike the pistons, check all the clearances, probably do a couple mock up assemblies, wait till you have the block to get the cam retainer plate. There are different plates, I think 2 or 3, bolt centers are the difference.

busterrm · Sep 23, 2016

I might run a dingleball hone up and down the bores.

Grumpy · Sep 23, 2016

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...plate-honing-makes-a-differance.588/#post-869

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/piston-to-bore-clearance.4630/#post-48955

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/flex-hone.9538/#post-35100

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-piston-to-bore-ring-seal.3897/#post-26602

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...block-cylinder-wall-thickness.976/#post-22976

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...c-piston-ring-info-youll-need.509/#post-11324

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ring-grooves-and-related-info.1797/#post-4586
notice how the rod bolts come close to the cam bearings and cam lobes, as the pistons reach top dead canter in the bores, this clearance must be individually checked and should be no less than about .060 (generally you cam use a LARGE plastic tie-wrap, you must install the timing set and index the cam correctly to get a valid clearance , as the cam lobes rotate and at some point they can be incorrectly indexed too hit the rods, while they would not if correctly timed.
https://www.amazon.com/BuyCableTies...D=41U9CtmwOuL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

placed between the cam lobe and connecting rod bolts or connecting rod shoulder areas to check clearances as the soft tie-wrap will not damage the cam lobe while you verify clearances)

why you need to verify the cam to rod bolt clearance
Id also use 1.6:1 roller rockers on a mild 383 SBC build in most cases
http://www.pbm-erson.com/Catalog/Erson/Camshafts/Retro_Fit Hydraulic Roller_E/ERSE119815

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Erson-Cams-803-16-SB-Chevy-Extreme-Duty-1-6-Aluminum-Roller-Rockers-7-16-Stud/173036288915?_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIM.MBE&ao=1&asc=20160908110712&meid=dd2ef46908f84d1994db01594e3da770&pid=100677&rk=4&rkt=8&sd=173036285468&_trksid=p2385738.c100677.m4598

rods that use bolts with nuts like pictured below will be weakened if excessively clearance ground

stroker profile rods offer more clearance to cam lobes, and yes the stroker clearanced profile rods are available in both (h) and (I ) beam designs

on some stroker applications SOME rods need to have the bolts ground for cam lobe clearance
Verifying your engines clearances, and rocker geometry, and use of A rocker stud girdle and high quality roller rockers go a long way towards maintaining valve train durability

Loves302Chevy · Sep 23, 2016

DorianL said:
So it is already over-bored 030... does it need to be honed for a perfect clearance with the over-sized 030 pistons?

No, it is already honed. And it will work fine with .030 over pistons (you still have to measure).
Machinists usually measure each piston and finish hone the bores to each individually. Others don't.
But everything should fall within a perfectly acceptable range.

If you like the block idea, then you could also order an assembled shortblock, or a kit if you want to
put all the pieces and parts together yourself. Or you can order a longblock or even a complete engine.

DorianL said:
It's ready to take on factory style roller cam... but how is this a saving?

The conversion to run a roller cam in a non-roller block will cost about $1000. The retro-fit lifters are expensive.
A factory roller block will save you $$$.

Busterrm is correct about having it inspected before it ships. I've seen more than a few complaints about receiving rusty blocks.
But I would not use a dingle ball hone. You can easily screw up the professional honing job if you don't know what you are doing.

Check Competition Products Broom Sheet regularly for some great deals.
http://www.competitionproducts.com/Rotating-Assemblies/products/681/

busterrm · Sep 23, 2016

Loves302Chevy said:
Busterrm is correct about having it inspected before it ships. I've seen more than a few complaints about receiving rusty blocks.
But I would not use a dingle ball hone. You can easily screw up the professional honing job if you don't know what you are doing.

Chromebumpers suggested the inspection. I would hand hone if there is any flash rust is what I meant to say.

Loves302Chevy · Sep 23, 2016

busterrm said:
Chromebumpers suggested the inspection. I would hand hone if there is any flash rust is what I meant to say.

All 3 of you guys have red cars for your avatar...... and I'm getting older and easily confused. You know what I mean

?

Loves302Chevy · Sep 23, 2016

Now that's different.

Another 383 build...

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