Another 383 build...

I bought 3 prepped blocks from Summit, the first 2 were evenly covered with rust. After arguments I finally got a credit, but for the third time I asked that someone in shipping take a high resolution photo or make a statement on the shipping docs that the block is rust free. It must have been a lot to ask because one of the managers in customer service called me assuring me the vendor has taken measures against "flash rusting" and packaging will be re-examined. The 3rd block looked text book fresh.
 
hopefully that informative but negative feedback from customers , on receiving flash rusted blocks, will improve the blocks condition all future purchasers see delivered, from the vendors view point they don,t want to have dissatisfied purchasers so if they can get the suppliers to up the quality and care in packaging the product, it will be to their benefit

btw dorianL
Id suggest you re-read through this thread as a great deal of the info, in that T-BUCKET ENGINE BUILD UP THREAD, applies to what you'll be doing too build a 383, for a c3 corvette, other than, the roller cam related stuff, in the thread, if you go the flat tappet cam route.
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tbucket-engine-project-dart-shp.3814/

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Hi-Volume-S-B-Chevy-Claimer-Oil-Pan-Combo-RH-Side-Dipstick,28103.html

SUM-G1009_SN.jpg


DEAL IN PROVEN FACTS NEVER GUESS , NEVER ASSUME
first step.

before you start panicking and potentially wasting money and time.
would be to assemble a single piston and rod assembly without rings,
but ideally with some old bearings on the crank and connecting rod and install the cam, in the block
( indexed with a simple,dot to dot timing on the timing gear sets should be ok at this point)
move that connecting rod and piston to all 8 locations and very carefully verify clearances (remember the rod clearance bevel faces the crank counter weight and the piston valve clearances face the outer block)through the full 720 degree rotational cycle, remember the cam spins at 1/2 the crank speed so the cam lobe comes close to the rod every other rotation,
and actually verify you DO, have or DON,T have a potential clearance problem
theres zero sense in runninbg around pulling your hair out and screaming until,
theres actually a PROVEN ISSUE too SOLVE (THERE MAY NOT BE!)
now if you find theres an issue to be solved you proceed using facts
and while your checking the cam lobe to connecting rod clearance check the connecting rod to block clearance ....yes the same minimum .060-.080 clearance is suggested
lobeclear.jpg

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...earances-and-journal-surface.9955/#post-38385

generally its a minor easily done clearance job
camlcc1.jpg

camlcc3.jpg

camlcc4.jpg

camlcc5.jpg

camlcc6.jpg

camlcc7.jpg

http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/index.htm
don,t forget to verify the cam to connecting rod clearances
a cams VALVE LIFT is determined by the DISTANCE the lifter moves as the cam rotates under the lifter base as it moves from the cam lobe base circle
(the closest the lifter comes to the cams center line)
up to the cam lobes ramp to the lobes peak,
(the furthest the lifter up off or from the cams center line)

don,t forget to carefully check the piston skirt to crank counter weight clearance, it should be a MINIMUM of .080 thousands

heres some pictures taken of an engine assembly that use a crank designed for a MINIMUM of a 6.25" connecting rod that was used with a 6.135" connecting rod

p140811.jpg

piston1.jpg

you can clearly see where the piston pin boss was being hit bye the counter weights, even though the builder checked one piston and found it had .025 clearance during assembly
pistontocrankclearance.jpg


the result was a trashed engine with lots of damage

piston2.jpg


I think the hamburger oil pan is a better value At $242 than most of the common mid priced oil pans
notice the better oil control features

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ham-1088/overview/
ham-1088.jpg




http://www.milodon.com/oil-pans/street-oil-pans-sbchevy.asp

http://www.jegs.com/p/Moroso/Moroso-Street-Strip-Oil-Pans/763991/10002/-1

https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/hamburgers-performance/part-type/oil-pans

https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?search=action&category=1301

http://www.stefsperformance.net/ste...oil-pans/aluminum-oil-pans-pumps#!prettyPhoto
 
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Summit had a few older reviews complaining about flash rust.

When I call them, and this seems this is the way to go... I'll chat with them on the phone about rust and them assuring me there's no chance of that.
 
After the last block I bought from Summit I added everything up and I found 383 crate motors, turn key that were cheaper, or nearly the same price and it was nearly the same sub components. I even had a long post covering everything and was boo'd because it took away "all the fun."
 
who "BOO'D YOU?" certainly I missed that if it was on this web site!
I know I suggest crate engines rather frequently!
any options, a valid option under some conditions and theres always guys who,
don,t feel they have the skills or tools, or inclination, or space to work on an engine.
thats one reason crate engines have a big market share
 
After the last block I bought from Summit I added everything up and I found 383 crate motors, turn key that were cheaper, or nearly the same price and it was nearly the same sub components. I even had a long post covering everything and was boo'd because it took away "all the fun."

You can always take the crane engine apart and verify and record all the important measurements/dimensions.
Then re-assemble it yourself. Unless that will void a warranty.
 
I can tell you that from several experiences in the past,
"taking the crate engine apart and verify and record all the important measurements/dimensions."
at least in my experience is a mixed bag,
obviously you find theres frequently a huge difference in the value of the engine you buy as a crate engine!

you either tend to get depressed at the sloppy slip shod way clearances were maintained during the assembly process,that you obviously paid too much for,
and you look at the parts quality they used and get depressed that you paid that much money for crappy work,
OR
you get darn impressed with the quality of the work and way the parts were assembled and are a bit afraid you won,t be able to reassemble the whole deal back together again to the same degree of expertise unless you work very very carefully.
AND PRICE ALONE and the BRAND NAME is NOT necessarily, going to provide you with the better result,
but ID bet a good deal of money that you,ll be amazed at the low quality of parts and lack of care involved that I've seen in some of the cheaper bargain priced crate engines.
surprisingly
I've installed several G.M. crate engines that I was not overly impressed with, over the years and they ran just fine and are still running fine years later!
but I,ve also helps guys I know install engines they bought off the internet that we found had serious flaws and I've been asked to diagnose why some engines failed within hours of being started, the first time!
your fairly safe with a G.M. crate engine, but I would avoid any non-well known brand crate engines!
ON ANY CRATE ENGINE I WOULD SUGGEST pulling the oil pan and at least checking the oil pump, and oil pump pick-ups correctly installed and verifying the main cap bolts and rod bolts (or nuts) are all tightened to similar and reasonable torque specs and look over the clearances, (like distributor end play and timing chain slack, ) and visually check the parts quality, it will only cost you an oil pan gasket and may save you a great deal of problems.
Id also verify valve train geometry and clearances.


CRATE ENGINES

http://www.jegs.com/c/Engines-Components_Engine-Assembled-Ready-to-Run/10763/10002/-1

http://www.tristarengines.com/catalog/high-performance-crate-engines/gm/383.html

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/crate-engines

http://www.shafiroff.com/

http://www.tristarengines.com/catal...-engine.html?gclid=CIiE06P8j9MCFYaIswodlq8Ewg

http://www.chevrolet.com/performance/crate-engines

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/shop/crate-engines~6-10-344

http://rehermorrison.com/

http://www.herbertcams.com/herbert-cams-crate-engines/

http://www.proformanceunlimited.com/home3.html

http://www.jasperengines.com/crate-engines

http://blueprintengines.com/index.php/products/bp-gm-crate-engines-landing

http://www.gmperformancemotor.com/category/ENG.html
 
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After the last block I bought from Summit I added everything up and I found 383 crate motors, turn key that were cheaper, or nearly the same price and it was nearly the same sub components. I even had a long post covering everything and was boo'd because it took away "all the fun."

Got a link to that?
 
It was actually another member who provided links to other companies and then more chimed in providing their links. I try to find it. Can't remember if it was here, the old Grumpy website, or DC?
 
I found the shipping tags from that Stroker. I remember they start simple at 325hp/360trq with Lots of stuff still not included for $3,200.
The one that I bought was for a 72 vette. 540 hp, 505 tq. 9.25:1 compression, Roller factory block, No chrome, dart heads, hyper.pist., H beam connectors. Still looking for the extended list that stated what cam. It was $7,812 but it did not include intake, carb, valve covers, fuel pump, no accessories and no distrib.
The buyer served with my oldest son and still serving at that time. Our deal was adding the Edelbrock EFI system and long tube headers. Everything done it was sent to a race shop where it was dyno tuned for 615 hp - 632 tq.
Gary over at DC built the differential with 3.73 gears and rebuilt the steering box. The TH400 was slightly fortified to handle the extra power, but not by much.
As of April the car has a new owner, both are living happily in Iceland.
 
Id like too see the complete detailed parts list if you find it!

IF your willing to read and learn , building a 450hp-550hp 383 SBC is not that difficult, but I can tell you from decades of building them, that most guys will find "DEALS" on mis-matched components too save a few bucks and skimp on quality components and precision machine work, and the result generally hurts both durability and performance a great deal as a result.
ID suggest you do detailed research, and a properly matched set of aftermarket aluminum heads that flow at least 250 cfm at .500 lift and a compression ratio near 9.5:1 for pump gas is a good starting point.
read the links and sub-links below carefully.
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tbucket-engine-project-dart-shp.3814/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...383-build-that-is-now-going-to-be-a-400.7804/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cam-help-for-new-383-build.13099/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-selecting-budget-383-heads.14620/#post-78229
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-a-383-sbc-combo-planing.12168/#post-71932
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tweaking-a-350-383.13087/#post-68195

mor-38350_w.jpg

On oil pans I prefer studs, and an oil pan back plate
panback1.jpg

fel-0534510t.jpg

you might want to Use with P/N 12553058 RH and P/N 12553059 LH oil pan reinforcement plates to distribute the bolt stress on the oil pan rail for 1985 and earlier oil pans P/N 14088501 (LH) and P/N 14088502 (RH).1986 and newer
Id say its a VERY bad idea personally , if you shop carefully you can find a reasonably priced 6- 7 quart oil pan that should help engine durability.
SHOP CAREFULLY ,
WHEN YOU GO TO BUY AN OIL PAN for your engine or transmission,
<AND ASK LOTS OF QUESTIONS ABOUT WHAT WILL FIT YOUR CAR CORRECTLY,
AND ASK FOR SUGGESTIONS ON MATCHING COMPONENTS OR PARTS THAT WON,T FIT
many guys ignore proven combos, because it may cost more than they want to spend, and either insist on using components they own currently or think they can buy far less expensively than the components, I know from experience will actually work.

MILODON,
http://www.milodon.com/

CHAMP
http://www.champpans.com/products/c/oil-pans/

CANTON,
https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/category/1501/Chevy-SS--Road-Race-Oil-Pans/1.html

MOROSO
http://www.moroso.com/
http://www.shopmoroso.com/eb/catalog/navigationPath/1::Moroso Performance Products/1100001::Oil Pans/11005::Chevy Big Block, Gen VGen VI?resetOffset=true&entryId=catalog.productgroup.1110000111005&expand=true&menuId=main.menu

AVIAID
http://aviaid.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/ws_oilpns_sbc.html

STEFS
http://www.stefs.com/products/oilpans/circletrackwetsump.htm

HAMBURGERPERFORMANCE
http://www.hamburgersperformance.com/

KEVKO
https://kevko.myshopify.com/

IF you've wondered why I suggest buying and using a well designed BAFFLED oil pan with 7-8 quart capacity its to prevent the oil from uncovering the oil pump pick-up under performance use.
without control baffles oil sloshes away from the oil pump pick-up

Slosh1.jpg

Slosh3.jpg


Slosh2.jpg



obviously you,ll want to ask specific questions as to the ,
ground clearance, starters that can be used,
oil filters, oil dip stick, location,
oil pan gasket matching both pan and lock used.
rear oil seal type,and frame and suspension clearance issues,
related to your car, before you purchase any oil pan


I think the hamburger oil pan is a better value At $242
notice the better oil control features

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ham-1088/overview/
ham-1088.jpg




http://www.milodon.com/oil-pans/street-oil-pans-sbchevy.asp

http://www.jegs.com/p/Moroso/Moroso-Street-Strip-Oil-Pans/763991/10002/-1

https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/hamburgers-performance/part-type/oil-pans

https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?search=action&category=1301

http://www.stefsperformance.net/ste...oil-pans/aluminum-oil-pans-pumps#!prettyPhoto

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...l-level-in-oil-pan-with-engine-running.11263/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-mods-that-help.2187/#post-7231

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearings-and-oil-flow.150/#post-68206

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ed-holes-in-bearings-shells.10750/#post-64733

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...es-engine-builders-magazine.11965/#post-57052

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...te-filter-require-a-new-pump.3144/#post-16458

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...l-cooler-increases-durability.176/#post-12473

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...essure-bye-pass-circuit-works.3536/#post-9379

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-basics.615/#post-1731

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/engine-oil-temps.296/#post-361

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/whats-a-windage-tray-do.64/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/installing-an-oil-pump-pick-up-tube.1800/
 
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I'm working on that now.

Ok, I'm standing firm on my opinion here, you guys may not agree but it just has to come out.
If I had this wish list there could only be one motor for a classic C3 - The mother of all things - A Big Block!!
What ever its size, there's no replacement for displacement!
Everybody has a small block, they're in everything #boring.
A C3 was born to run on Big Block power and the music they make is second to none!
If the wish list calls for 400 to 450 hp, smooth as you like, but pure balls to the wall power on tap, the choice is easy. Bragging rights alone are half the experience.
What could be the difference cost wise? A tame motor can start the fun and changes later as budget permits. The parts are off the shelf and your still swapping engines, you can keep the stick and the rear gears. The biggest single cost is a new radiator and some fooling around with the accessories, pulleys and mounts, give or take?
Just my thoughts and 2 cents!
 
I came too the conclusion decades ago that if you want something, that look ,sounds, and performs impressively your rarely disappointed with a correctly built big block chevy.
I build more BBC engine that almost all the rest combined and most are not all that radical, just street/strip muscle car engines, Id be happy to give you some insight and parts suggestions , I know you can build something that will provide the car with impressive performance yet still maintain a good deal of daily driver comfort, the extra displacement, better heads, bigger valves etc. do have marked advantages.

bargain big block chevy heads, and some related info

http://www.dragzine.com/tech-stories/engine/ultimate-guide-to-budget-bbc-cylinder-heads-under-2000/

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-bp4961/overview/

http://www.blueprintengines.com/index.php/products/bp-shortblocks-landing/gm-496-stroker-sb-main

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/sucp-0706-chevy-big-block-cylinder-heads/

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/200...-cylinder-heads-for-streetstrip-applications/

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-0803-big-block-cylinder-heads/

http://www.tristarengines.com/catal...-shortblock-featuring-darttm-big-m-block.html
Fuel-Pump-Flow-Requirements.jpg


FuelFlowDiagram02a1.jpg


this would be a great time to carefully read the links below. :D
a properly set up fuel delivery, system, fuel pump and filter,
and tuned carb goes a long way toward making the car both perform and dependable.


understanding how everything should work,
and whats required,in a properly set-up fuel delivery system, knowing how too select and design and install, and correctly match components,
will go a long way toward making the performance car application run better than you might imagine.



http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/how-big-a-fuel-pump-do-you-need.1939/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/setting-up-your-fuel-system.211/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/fuel-pressure-regulators.635/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/flex-fuel-lines.4381/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/return-line-in-fuel-system.14125/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/carburetor-intake-manifold-test.58/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/carb-tuning-info-and-links.109/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cooler-denser-air.8961/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/fuel-line-sizing-return-vs-feed.3067/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/dual-quad.11867/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-the-holley-4150-and-4160-series-carbs.10736/
READ THIS THREAD
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/another-496bbc.5123/



https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2095
A fairly mild hydraulic roller cam like this
http://www.claysmithcams.com/bbc-454-to-470-cid-old-school-oem-049-781-heads-to-a-max-of-5700-rpm/
a decent set of heads, intake , road race oil pan, about 9.5:1-10:1 compression, and 600 ft lbs and 500 hp is easy
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-41310001-m13



what your basically looking for can be easily provided with a set of decent quality oval port heads, a dual plane intake intake matched to a 454-496-540 big block (the larger the displacement the smoother the engine will run and the more massive the torque curve will tend to be, a 496 versions an excellent compromise) with a fairly mild hydraulic cam, and a 750cfm-850 cfm carb, and low restriction headers and exhaust, you'll be rather amazed at both the off idle torque yet docile ease of drive-ability and potential power available without needing the radical idle or need to build rpms before the car will pull briskly in traffic
YOU KNOW YOU WANT THIS
800 rpm idle, brisk acceleration, in traffic when you want it, you still have power brakes and
a low rumble to the idle but no bad drive-ability issues,
and you'll never need to break 5500 rpm,
and rarely have any need to push past 3500 rpm in a daily comute
69bbcv.jpg

 
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