bare minimum tools

grumpyvette

Administrator
Staff member
ALLEN said:
Grumpy? what do you think the bare minimum of tools would be to build or re-build an engine?
I'm thinking of rebuilding the 383 V8 in my road runner and while I have a standard set of mechanics tools like wrenches ratchets, sockets and a 1/2" torque wrench I'm certainly not in possession of several of the more commonly referred too tools in the numerous engine building threads I see posted here?



well I think the "BARE MINIMUM" would be a HEALTHY CHECKING ACCOUNT BALANCE , and a DEBIT CARD!
STOP AND ACKNOWLEDGE THE FACT YOU NEED BOTH TOOLS AND KNOWLEDGE,
THAT WILL TAKE TIME AND RESEARCH AND SOME EXPERIENCE,
AS I've stated before, I could have you watch me build a kick-ass race engine and then let you try and duplicate the effort, the problem is not in your new found skills its in the fact it takes decades to look over the fit finish and condition of components to know what needs to be tested, clearances required and what might need in depth testing or extensive machine work, and because every last combo will have different requirements you would not have acquired ALL the skills and EXPERIENCE NEEDED,YOU WILL NEED TO DO EXTENSIVE RESEARCH, and the fact is that, until you have had several dozen engine builds in your past, and have acquired several thousand dollars in tools and made dozens of reliable contacts in machine shops and parts supply houses. and made plenty of minor mistakes in the process!
now that in no way means you can.t build a decent engine on the first try, IF your willing to take things slowly , think logically and ask questions and do a good deal of reading!
I'm sure other members will add useful comments, and share experiences
but to answer the question,, and assuming youll do much of the final assembly work yourself... it would rather obviously depend a good deal on how much work you intend to do yourself, theres a great deal to learn and yes it will take some research and time reading and theres a huge difference between assembling parts as they come out of the packaging VS BUILDING and ENGINE CORRECTLY, so reading the sub-links helps,
most of us start out with far less tools than we wish we had, but we tend to buy what we need as we develop both the skills to use the tools and the knowledge of what the tools are used for and why they should be used to begin with.
vs ...procedures you rather pawn off on a good trust worthy local machine shop.
in many places if you join a local hot rod club you may find the local guys may be willing to help and supply loaner tools or some places like advance auto do rent or allow you too borrow tools if you leave a deposit to insure their return.

when I started out I found that having a good engine stand was a huge improvement over working on the garage floor on a large plastic tarp, which is how I built my first 400 Pontiac engine, so if I was just starting Id strongly suggest you get one even if you intend to use it and sell it later to re-coupe much of its cost.
you can rent an engine crane , to remove and install and engine but the rental cost over two or three days my easily exceed the cost of purchasing a good used one, off craigs list , or bargain trader or from HARBOR FREIGHT,locally

foldst.png


http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200305217

http://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb-ca ... 69521.html
now you can,t really guess at clearances, even if the machine shop does much of the prep work, so youll need at least a decent caliper and some plasti-gauge strips, thread taps and feeler gauges
555-80593.jpg

prod_1588185312.jpg

https://www.craftsman.com/products/craftsman-mach-series-14-piece-3-8-t-handle-driver-and-bit-set

11CheckingPiston.jpg

10CheckingPiston.jpg


plastigagefg.jpg

threadchaser.jpg

enginerebuild109.JPG

calipersaa.jpg

T-wrench.jpg

youll want a decent torque wrench in fact you really should have two,
THIS BEAM STYLE TORQUE WRENCH IS THE TYPE TORQUE WRENCH YOU WANT TO CHECK ROTATIONAL RESISTANCE

beam_torque_wrench.jpg

BUT NOT WHAT YOULL USE TO TIGHTEN HEAD BOLTS

HUSKY $88 (worked rather well, over all I was pleased)
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-2-in-Click-Torque-Wrench-H2DTW/202916180?N=5yc1vZc6ev
FOR HEAD BOLTS AND MAIN CAP STUDS ETC.
youll need a good quality torque wrench
torquewrench.png

and a torque angle gauge

41M70Tl7tKL.jpg

torqueingr.jpg

Feeler-Gauge.jpg

pro-66767_w.jpg

23301a.jpg

http://www.harborfreight.com/36-piece-3 ... 60669.html

mcap4z.gif

mcap2.jpg

mcap3.jpg

mcap5.jpg


marvel.jpg

plewsoilm.jpg

http://www.plews-edelmann.com/oil-cans-and-oilers/
asl1.jpg

crn-99004-1_w.jpg

a dremel tool comes in very handy
drem.png

damper tool
pro-66514_w.jpg


http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4531-Harmonic-Balancer-Installer/dp/B000F5LIW4/?tag=viglink22466-20
BTW when you go to buy a ring compressor...and youll need one of the correct size to fit your engine bore with the rings and pistons your using after the machine shop verifys the bore, cleans the block and hones the bores as required..this type works far better than the others

 
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Besides Grumpys links and advice....

Finding a top notch Engine Machinist that is dedicated and honest.
Not a liar & thief.

Everythings costs.
Engine block machine work & valvejob is most important .
 
youre also gonna need.... TO DEAL WITH A QUALITY MACHINE SHOP with a GREAT REPUTATION that depends on maintaining good customer feed back for repeat work.
a competent and experienced machine shop, machinist, you can trust to point out whats REQUIRED and what is SUGGESTED is a very valuable asset , you really should look for and researching what you think needs to be done, how that is accomplished and why its likely necessary in any particular application, goes a long way toward preventing both disagreements and wasted money on an engine build AS does having access too or better yet owning some precision measuring tools that allow you to check and verify that any machine work you pay for was in fact correctly done!




http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-4 ... 7AodzSgAgg

that kit includes a camshaft degree wheel and a piston stop and a dial indicator for endplay

also should consider some micrometers, inside and outside type, again depending on how much you do yourself vs have the machine shop do.

if youre gonna clean the block yourself you could use these

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-6 ... gQod1XEADw

some wire brushes in brass and steel again if you want to do most of the work yourself.

also a piston ring filing tool,

a valve spring compressor

some sort of valve keeping up while no keeper installed device

a pushrod length checker if you got new heads or you had your factory heads / block milled and or decked

valve spring height micrometer

a torque angle gauge

a rod bolt stretch gauge

some checking springs for your pushrod length and rocker alignment

definitely need to score various bolt removal tools for the inevitable siezed spark plug, broken manifold bolt, snapped stud that is for sure gonna happen.
i guess alot of it depends on your application also, and how much blueprinting and assembly work youll be doing vs paying someone else to do.
should probably score a couple books on blueprinting in general and specifically blueprinting the engine that you are working on, for the purpose you are gonna use it for.
 

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oh man and chemicals, degreasers, lubes, anti siezes, brake cleaner carb cleaner atf, wd40, corrosion inhibitors, maybe some CLR if you wanna try something fancy on old rotten coolant passages
 
yeah! your correct theres a dozen other tools you might want to use and many you can borrow or rent as they will only be used briefly, or tools, and supplies, you could do without them if you know what your doing and how to check clearances, I thought long and hard about including a dial indicator,
\cam bearing tool, keep in mind as you look thru the list of tools that theres little sense in buying a tool unless you understand what its used FOR and why you would use it in the first place?
If you don,t recognize a tool chances are very good you have no idea what its used for or why theres a need for it
p117194_image_large.jpg

arp-100-9942_w.jpg

cambearingtoolp.jpg

with magnetic stand,
image_1450.jpg


shop carefully the exact same set of mics from the same company can cost $270-$900 depending on where you buy the set
https://www.greatgages.com/products...MIyYigxdnA1QIVU2p-Ch1Z7wX8EAQYASABEgLrvvD_BwE

23301a.jpg

http://www.harborfreight.com/36-piece-3 ... 60669.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/36-piece-38-in-steel-letternumber-stamping-set-63675.html


rodnumber.gif



checklifter3.jpg


thats one of many reasons I strongly suggest anyone in this hobby has a selection of accurate precision measuring tools

g5632.jpg


precisemes.png

16336.jpg

degreew1.jpg


checking lifter
pro-66838_w.jpg

checklifter.jpg

http://www.zoro.com/g/Snap Ring Tools/00059785/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lil-49200/overview/
cnl-927_w.jpg

17903.jpg
https://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-telescoping-gauge-set-5649.html

generalcal.jpg

https://www.homedepot.com/p/General-Tools-12-in-Inside-Caliper-454-12/202545173?cm_mmc=Shopping|THD|G|0|G-Pro-PLA|&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6J6Lq8Si2AIVlbrACh1ZWQfYEAQYAiABEgI5TfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CLqo4rHEotgCFVLZwAod5HoAtg

13cal.jpg



http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cnl-927/overview/
valve spring compressors
pro-66832_cp.jpg

pro-66784_w.jpg

cam degree wheel,
camposition.jpg

yes it sure helps to have the correct tools and know where to measure parts
micrometerset.jpg

pistondie.png

dcp3.jpg

pistondiam.jpg

lifter bore hone,
liftercylinderhone.jpg

a piston bore hone,
wmr-w80560_w.jpg

irtemp.jpg

http://www.professionalequipment.com/ex ... ermometer/
Wide temperature range from -58 to 1832°F (-50 to 1000°C)
ring install pliers
pring3.jpg

air compressors
P1000311.JPG

long reach air nozzle,
nozzle.gif

deck bridge with dial indicator
deckheight.jpg

deckbridge.jpg

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66797/
adjustable push rod length checker,
cca-7901-1.jpg

ring square tool
file.php

with a rocker arm geometry checker,
man-42133_w.jpg

ring groove cleaner tool
ringgroovetool.jpg

spring micrometers,
pro-67390_w_ml.jpg

a crank snout, turning socket,
pro-67491_w.jpg

a dead blow mallet ,
20443a.jpg

a can of moly spray lube,
various die grinders
12256.jpg

and burrs,
8_pc_carbide_burr_set.jpg

a piston ring filer,
prf4.jpg

rings3.jpg

SUM-900013_xla.jpg


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900013/overview/
GEAR PULLERS
4YT14_AS01.JPG

3R661_AS01.JPG

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900012/overview/
VALKVE SPRING LOAD TESTER
vsts3.jpg



its generally a very good idea to keep all the cam, lifter,valve train and cylinder head components in matched sets, keep components in labeled matched sets, if you intend to reuse used parts in a rebuild. as each wears in, or laps in to its matched components a bit differently thus random assembly increases the chances of future parts
failures

https://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=POW735002

valvetraya3.jpg

valvetraya4.jpg


SUM-900013_xla.jpg


SUM-900012_xla.jpg

btw, if the parts will be sitting on a shelf in the work shop while you wait, a good soak with wd 40, and wrapping a few criss crossed layers of saran wrap plastic over the loose parts is a good idea as it prevents moisture damage and tends to keep the parts in the correct location slots, and if your working on more than one engine type out some detailed info as to the build ID and place it under the saran wrap.

brazing torch
oxy2.jpg

and a dozen other tools that I use,
but I kept thinking back to the first few engines I built and what tools I had on hand and what I used and remembered the treads about BARE MINIMUM LIST OF TOOLS but I do appreciate you gentlemen adding your ideas to the list as I'm 100% sure Ive overlooked a good many things or ignored a few obvious choices

related threads youll want to read thru carefully
elated threads
(DON,T IGNORE THE LINKS AND SUB-LINKS)

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bare-minimum-tools.11026/#post-48766


http://www.jegs.com/i/INNOVA/336/3555/10002/-1

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/most-versital-shop-welder.1594/#post-50625

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...s-off-under-your-tree.11863/page-2#post-68027

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tool-boxes-and-chests.10357/page-3#post-69921

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/under-car-safety.26/page-3#post-59431


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/multi-meters.3110/#post-59136

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/first-mig-welder.10392/#post-43002

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/precision-measuring-tools.1390/

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-9901-affordable-engine-building-tools/

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/148-0505-engine-building-tools/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/porting-can-help.462/page-3#post-67176

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/block-prep.125/page-2#post-55610

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bare-minimum-tools.11026/#post-51843

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...op-needs-a-decent-drill-press.970/#post-50726

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...hen-parts-are-not-available.11371/#post-52007

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-the-correct-tools-helps.12466/#post-62446




http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/starter-tool-set.6032/
 
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as far as slapping a motor together yea you're right, you could probably trust most of its gonna fit right out of the box, i guess i looked past the bare minimum part and read too far into the "blueprinting" a motor and that requires some extensive measuring equipment....

it also depends greatly on the motor, for a gen 1 sbc you can buy a rering and gasket kit and just rock out, but for newer import engines, each main bearing is different and fitted and needs to measured for clearance and ordered... shit gets chaotic the more current the motor is...
 
Its not well known but Oldsmobile V8 engines were all Blueprinted from the factory.
How many lasted 200,000-400,000 miles with a Q-jet carburator.
My #2 Favorite engine still. Olds V8.
 
The Pontiac V8 connecting rod bearing is the same Clevite part number as the 1949 Olds 303 V8.
A fact but not well known .
 
Ive always been rather amazed at the number of guys that start out to build or re-build an engine without even a few basic tools, other than typical wrenches and sockets.
yeah! it can be done,but its rather unlikely to be done correctly and without the ability to accurately measure clearances or support an engine and keep it clean during the process the results are not likely to be reasonably close to what you might expect to have in a durable engine.
it helps a great deal if you take the time and effort to find a trust worthy and reasonably priced local machine shop , and trust me when I say this is critical, and yes, the machinist will seem to point out endless things that should be done to increase durability, or just allow proper component function,and a good machinist will try to guide you in component selection to help avoid mis-matched parts and low quality parts being used, yes quality parts and machine work, ALWAYS COST more than you may expect them too!


http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ting-resistance-to-look-for.11312/#post-51472

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/rod-bolt-mics-stretch-gauges.989/#post-51199

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-tools-abrasives-sources.10683/#post-46207


http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...embling-an-engine-correctly.10363/#post-43806

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ry-jogger-on-engine-assembly.4925/#post-13634

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-engine-stand-mods-accesories.3724/#post-7842

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...tting-started-in-the-car-hobby.339/#post-6868

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/precision-measuring-tools.1390/#post-3073

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/finding-a-machine-shop.321/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/parts-washers-cleaners.2886/#post-12701

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...afety-wire-locking-fasteners.4306/#post-11353

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ue-specs-calculator-links-etc.1222/#post-8399
 
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rather interesting related linked info
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/148-0505-engine-building-tools/

http://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/guide-to-proform-engine-building-tools/

http://www.wizardswarehouse.com/products/tools


http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ccrp-9901-affordable-engine-building-tools/


http://www.powerhouseproducts.com/#


http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...me-repair-when-parts-are-not-available.11371/

http://www.moroso.com/eb/catalog/navigationPath/1::Moroso Performance Products/22000::Tools?resetOffset=true&entryId=catalog.productgroup.122000&expand=true&menuId=second.menu

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/under-car-safety.26/

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-311-...SellerId=Sears&prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2


most of us find we accumulate tools on the basis of what we need at the time when we run into a job we can,t do with the tools we own.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/starter-tool-set.6032/#post-18696

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/what-hand-tools-to-buy.4069/#post-10827

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/labeling-your-tool-chest-drawers.3283/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ete-but-it-will-get-you-started.834/#post-125

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tool-boxes-and-chests.10357/page-3#post-64730

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bare-minimum-tools.11026/#post-51843

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/under-car-safety.26/
63183a.jpg

would suggest purchase of a semi-decent quality floor jack
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-daytona-professional-steel-floor-jack-super-duty-63183.html

and 4 12 ton rated jack stands
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-steel-jack-stands-61599.html
20861.jpg

and a cheap mechanics creeper
https://www.harborfreight.com/40-in-300-lb-capacity-low-profile-creeper-69262.html
a couple work lamps
6223.jpg

https://www.harborfreight.com/long-line-fluorescent-work-light-46890.html
24701.jpg

5/8 in. x 4-3/4 in. Clevis Pin available at home depot for $4 each
22639b.jpg

9040-Honda-Dial-Bore-Gauge2.jpg

19556.jpg


I've painted every third jack stands tooth yellow and the second tooth , the one below that red and the first tooth below that blue,
this makes matching the height on all 4 stand far faster too adjust , the third notch for the pawl,
is the preferred creeper height, under my corvettes,
for clutch and brake jobs
and where the pin slides through and locks,

with the pawl and pin engaged the stand height will not change accidentally
22639a.jpg

and suggest you try to only work on level concrete floors


clay5.jpg

almost every mechanics tool box needs a few basic measuring tools and supplies, dealing in proven facts as to correct clearance sure beats guessing
12cal.jpg

clay6.jpg
https://www.amazon.com/Claytoon-Set...d=1466872286&sr=8-17&keywords=plastilina+clay

http://www.utrechtart.com/Plastalin...currency=USD&gclid=CN3G75zOw80CFQgaaQodKbgFjA
at times having an inspection tools handy when you can't get a good look at a problem any other way
if your going to buy a used short block or a bare block from an un-known private source or most salvage yards, obviously you'll need to do BOTH a close inspection, WITH some measuring tools
AND get some idea of the blocks physical condition
this is also a good inspection tool
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-6283- ... pv618.aspx
PV618.jpg

GOOGLE PV-618 and PV-636

High resolution lens provides a clear image of objects as close as 3/4 inch and over one foot away while providing a wide 40 degree field of view.
Powerful lamp illuminates dark crevices on-demand with the push of a button conveniently located on the handle.
Ergonomically designed handle is comfortable to hold and allows one-handed focusing and light activation.
Rugged and water resistant, ProVision is made of high impact ABS and flexible cable sheathing. (Note: Shaft is water resistant, not the handle.)
PV-618 and PV-636 models have .23†diameter, flexible, non-obedient cable. Durable carrying case included.
Accessories available to optimize ProVision for specialized applications.
Made in the USA
Specifications:

Cable Length: 18" (457.2mm)
Cable Diameter: .23"
Handle Length: 6" (152.4mm)
Handle Width: 1.43" (36.2mm)Overall Length: 24" (609.6mm)
Weight of Scope w/ Carrying Case: 1 lb. 5.7 oz (615 g)
Field of View: 40°
Optimal Viewing Distance: Min. .8" (20mm); Max. is dependent upon ambient lighting conditions.
Lamp Volts: 2.7 volts (Halogen)
Power Source: 2 AA batteries (not included)
Pressure Necessary to Operate Lamp: 2.9 avg. p/psi; 3.2 max. p/psi


heres a cheaper version that works with a lap top computer

51GhC8fSwCL.jpg

GCA 5.5mm Diameter USB Waterproof 6 Led Endoscope Borescope Inspection Wire Camera (5m)

Price: $18.50 & FREE Shipping on orders over $49. Details




    • Waterproof wire endoscope
    • Diameter:5.5mm head, 5 meters long flexible tube
    • High resolution 1.3MP with 1/12" VGA CMO
    • 6 LED lighting adjustable, can be inspected the hard-to-see areas.
    • Waterproof : IP67, 60°Viewable Angle. Can take photo & video and save in your computer

https://www.google.com/search?q=pro...=122&ie=UTF-8#q=proform+engine+tools&tbm=shop


http://www.goodson.com/

ENGINE BUILDING TOOL Shopping WISH LIST List
ENGINE STAND
foldst.png


Tapered Ring Compressor
pro-66767_w.jpg

THIS BEAM STYLE TORQUE WRENCH IS THE TYPE TORQUE WRENCH YOU WANT TO CHECK ROTATIONAL RESISTANCE
beam_torque_wrench.jpg

BUT NOT WHAT YOULL USE TO TIGHTEN HEAD BOLTS

HUSKY $88 (worked rather well, over all I was pleased)
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-2-in-Click-Torque-Wrench-H2DTW/202916180?N=5yc1vZc6ev
FOR HEAD BOLTS AND MAIN CAP STUDS ETC.
youll need a good quality torque wrench
torquewrench.png

the new ICON line looks decent
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-50-250-ft-lb-professional-torque-wrench-64064.html


bbctqsp.png


Piston Ring Squaring Tool

http://www.grumpysperformance.com/
ringsqtool.jpg





damper tool
pro-66514_w.jpg

btw if youve ever tried to draw on a damper with a crank bolt from a local hard ware store this is frequently the result, that or stripped crank threads, ID strongly suggest use of the correct Damper tool, and use of ARP crank bolts once its properly installed

damperbolt.jpg



next time BUY AND USE AN ARP BRAND BOLT
I,ve generally found that if you've stripped the SBC crank snout threads the best answer is to drill and re-thread to the standard and larger BBC crank snout bolt threads size

918999.jpg

balancerdepth.jpg

accurately measure the internal damper and the external crank snout diameter
damppic1.jpg

damppic2.jpg

Measure the crank-snout diameter with a micrometer (above left). Ours measured 1.600 inch, which is right on spec. Then use a dial-bore gauge to determine the inside diameter of the Fluidampr damper (below). Ours came in 1.599-inch, resulting in a .001-inch interference fit. This is the right amount of clearance to provide a good snug fit on the crankshaft, but still be able to install and remove without difficulty. Another method of measuring the damper hub ID of your is with a snap gauge (above right). After setting the gauge, the micrometer is used to to determine the final measurement. In this case, the same measurement as the dial bore gage was reached.
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article ... stons.aspx
http://www.arp-bolts.com/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-134-2501/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-234-2503/



if your current crank bolt is an ARP bolt, heres the dimensions,
keep in mind a bolt threaded in steel should have 1.5 times its diam. MINIMUM in the threads before the bolt starts to draw or tighten or clamp and TWICE its diam. in the threads is better as a minimum to prevent stripped threads, and remember the bolt should never be allowed to bottom out in the crank snout threads and tighten against the bottom of the drilled hole either
[/B]

arpbalancerbolt.jpg

tool_tap.jpg

Summit Racing Part Number ARP-134-2501

Thread Size 7/16-20 RH in.
Underhead Length (in) 2.470 in.
Head Style 12-point
Washer Included Yes
Fastener Yield Strength (psi) 200,000 psi
Fastener Material Chromemoly
Fastener Finish Black oxide
Quantity Sold individually.
Notes Features 5/8 in. socket size.

One tough bolt.

As the crankshaft flexes, the damper absorbs incredible amounts of energy. These damper bolt kits from ARP will ensure that your balancer is locked into position. They feature a 1/4 in. thick wide-area washer and an extra tall 12-point head that accepts a deep socket to eliminate the fear of stripping the head.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-134-2501/

now you can probably re-tap the current threads and use a longer bolt and get by for now, but drilling it with the correct larger drill diam. and re-threading for the big block Chevy bolt is the more common route taken once you strip crank threads
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=1480&p=6221&hilit=stripped+crank#p6221

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=1798&p=5680&hilit=stripped+crank#p5680
there is supposed to be about a .0001 -.0002 INTERFERENCE fit! so the damper has far less tendency to spin on the crank snout or work the woodriff key loose, you can generally polish the crank snout, and internal damper hole with a flap wheel and 400 grit sand paper enough to get a smoother surface, then, place the damper in boiling water to heat and expand it and oil its mating surface, use the correct damper installation tool, pick the damper up with oven mitts so you don,t get burned, use the tool to install it
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/otc-6505

I,ve generally found that if you've stripped the SBC crank snout threads the best answer is to drill and re-thread to the standard and larger BBC crank snout bolt threads size



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https://www.nookandtranny.com/Info_LT1.html
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these tools work well, fit most engines and if you do break off a thread adapter you can order a replacement without needing to pay for the whole new tool, and keep in mind the threads strip or adapters break if the dampers OVER TIGHTENED,ALL TOOLS WILL BREAK IF OVER STRESSED, this CAN generally be avoided with simply taking a few accurate measurements and use of some marvel mystery oil on the damper, crank and the installing tool threads
Yes I busted one thread adapter years back , but it was a P.I.T.A. waiting on a replacement and I learned not to over tighten the tool, and watch carefully on the measurements and have not had that happen for 30 plus years keeping the tool and damper and crank snout well lubed makes it slide on easier
measuring and checking the interference fits correct helps
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read thru these threads, for info on seating a damper and re-threading a stripped crank
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Degree Wheel
checking lifter
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degree wheel

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Dial Bore Gauge

Pushrod Length Checker

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http://www.summitracing.com/search/...d-length-checkers?autoview=SKU&ibanner=SREPD5
Proform Pushrod Length Checkers 66789 SBC 3/8" rocker studs

Proform Pushrod Length Checkers 66790 SBC 7/16" rocker studs

Proform Pushrod Length Checkers 66806 BBC 7/16" rocker studs

Oil Pump Primer

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http://www.harborfreight.com/36-piece-3 ... 60669.html

harbor freight has cheap and perfectly acceptable calipers
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http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-dial-caliper-62362.html
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http://www.harborfreight.com/1-inch-travel-machinists-dial-indicator-623.html
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http://www.harborfreight.com/multipositional-magnetic-base-with-fine-adjustment-5645.html
spring micrometers,
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a crank snout, turning socket,
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a dead blow mallet ,
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a can of moly spray lube,

DECK BRIDGE
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66797/

ring install pliers
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piston ring filer,
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GEAR PULLERS
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floridas hardly the ideal climate for keeping tools rust free so i generally take my set of micrometers out of the storage case and open and close them and spray them down with a light oil like WD 40 and place them back in the box then place the whole box in a 2 gallon zip lock bag in a shallow tupper ware type air tight storage box that is just the size to fit inside one of your tool chest drawers too protect the precision measuring tools , feeler gauges and plasti-gauge youll need to measure clearances correctly.when not in use along with the dial calipers.
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http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearing-clearances.2726/

the reason I bring this up is I recently was over at a friends house where I needed to accurately measure a u-joint bearing cap and asked if he had a micrometer or dial caliper, he responded he had a very expensive looking imported micrometer, he had acquired recently at an estate yard sale for $30,
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when he opened the very impressive looking brass and mahogany box the micrometer, inside was a solid rusted mass, I soaked it in marvel mystery oil and acetone mix for 30 minutes then gradually worked it loose and polished it up with 1500 grit wet/dry sand paper figuring no loss at this point and was amazed that after about 30 minutes of constant cleaning it not only looked fairly decent it seemed to read accurately on a test gauge so I think it was mostly ugly surface rust, but it sure looked horrible, and to someone who appreciates good tools,that was depressing.

btw look around at yard sales and estate sales every so often youll find amazing bargains in used precision tools
yes it sure helps to have the correct tools and know where to measure parts


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http://www.tooltopia.com/fowler-72-646-300.aspx
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http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-micrometer-set-66512.html


http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ccrp-9901-affordable-engine-building-tools/

http://www.powerhouseproducts.com

https://www.proformtools.com/

http://www.bierbros.net/EngineBuildingAndPrecisionTools.html

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/148-0505-engine-building-tools/

almost all starter tool kits are loaded with tools you seldom use to build up the tool numbers in the kits
yet many are still a good value, but remember you'll need a few auxiliary accessory kits for tools like screw drivers ratchet wrenches and a couple ,wire cutters drill bits, pliers,socket extensions and swivels,
frequently used tools like a decent 1/2" chuck electric drill, and vise grips, 12" dial caliper, multi meter,etc.
you can certainly use a couple of soft tool bags as they are far easier to carry , in your car or store than the cheap plastic or flimsy metal boxes that come with most starter tool kits

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-2...d-16-large-total-pockets-HD60024-TH/312387489

https://www.acmetools.com/shop/tool...wTqPfS82YeLeAXpDNp-vuCv3uC7lV2d4aAtIvEALw_wcB

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-138...c-Polished-Chrome-Mechanics-Tool-Set/50200791

https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-282-piece-Gunmetal-Chrome-Mechanic-s-Tool-Set/1002618996

https://www.walmart.com/ip/IRWIN-2078710-Vise-Grip-3-Pieces-GrooveLock-Pliers-Set/17238102

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-10-Piece-Household-Tool-Set/50029436

https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-...Gunmetal-Chrome-Mechanics-Tool-Set/1000596571

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-154...-Polished-Chrome-Mechanics-Tool-Set/999909119

https://www.lowes.com/collections/Kobalt-Mechanics-Collection/GR_609

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-439-Piece-Mechanic-s-Tool-Set/1001448260

https://gemplers.com/products/dewal...3m7KE5XM0hXefj1ZDtgwWtbHqxTNiEx8aAteQEALw_wcB

https://www.harborfreight.com/5-in-1-digital-multimeter-98674.html

https://www.walmart.com/ip/12-Verni...82195?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=14201

https://www.amazon.com/INTOO-Indust...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

https://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-Spade...ll+set&qid=1607798231&sr=8-51&tag=googhydr-20

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http://www.goodson.com/


dial indicator and magnetic stand

feeler gauges

torque wrench

gear puller

engine stand

engine crane

engine leveler


Valve Spring Height Micrometer

Engine Storage Cradle
btw, if you've ever had to stop a project because you could not locate the required matching bolt, or fastener, to install a bracket or accessory or engine component ,
you know how frustrating it will be to have to stop and locate the required fastener or go to a local hardware store and hope they have the required bolt.
and yes theres a great many sizes and types that are rather unique to automotive use and some specific to brands, and models.
now obviously you can spend a small fortune buying a vast assortment for your shops use.
or you can grab a 5 gallon bucket and a small assortment of ratchets wrenches and sockets ,
and visit your local salvage yard and grab some accessory or component you need and in the process,
you can remove and save, and throw several hands full of assorted fasteners in the bucket , on every trip to the salvage yard when your purchasing used re-buildable major components
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to re-stock your shops bolt box.
most salvage yards don,t mind this approach IF YOUR BUYING SEVERAL COMPONENTS in the process,
like all the parts and brackets off an engine , a set of cylinder heads, a power steering pump, or intake manifold for example or the disc brakes
most will NOT allow you to simply start pulling a large selection of fasteners , without a significant component purchase, or two too cover the cost of those fasteners.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/fastener-storage-idea.3898/#post-10324

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...spare-bolts-and-assorted-spare-parts-in.3557/
 
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https://www.amazon.com/Clevite-77-M...d=1&keywords=plastigage&qid=1611949792&sr=8-9
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every once in awhile I run into some guy that amazes me in that he's never seen or even heard of some basic almost mandatory tool
I was asked to help rebuild an engine in a guys garage, so I brought a few basic tools alone like a torque wrench, bore gauge feeler gauges and micrometer set, and and at least point out what needed to be done.
" at least in my mind"
now if your not into rebuilding engines your unlikely to have a bore gauge or set of
micrometer's but when I pull put some plastigauge and start checking clearances and the guy I'm helping is amazed and says he's never seen plastigauge used before??? that's AMAZING

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