battery charger for the shop

grumpyvette

Administrator
Staff member
Now theres hundreds to choose from and most of them work,.. at least marginally well.
The small lunch box size designs rarely exceed 75 amp ratings, MOST ARE RATED AT 10-30 AMPS and take a much greater time to either charge or jump start a car, they can be a good value, for a home hobby guy that may occasionally need to recharge a dead lawn mower battery, but are not ideal for shop use, in my opinion, because if they fall off a fender,or work bench, (and its just a matter of time) they are usually damaged or destroyed.(don,t ask) it seems like its a mandatory part of ownership if I buy one.
http://www.sears.com/diehard-200a-w...p-02871330000P?prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3

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ID advise getting something similar to this, (the roll around 200 amp style,) theres several manufacturers but battery chargers are not especially high tech, so most will work, the little ones Ive always referred to as fender mount models (mostly because the cables are usually to short to allow placing them on the ground when they are connected) are just not ideal.
clean the cable connection to battery terminals area carefully
use of a battery post cleaning brush tool is usually helpful


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use of this common anti-seize paste on the connecting thread surfaces noticeably reduces corrosion and helps electrical conductivity

http://www.harborfreight.com/battery...ner-94450.html
NWMDC


http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...940_0212865359

coat the cable connections with the proper anti corrosive paste

http://www.wiringproducts.com/copper-battery-terminals

http://www.jegs.com/c/Batteries-Acc...storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&No=30
http://s7d9.scene7.com/is/image/GenuinePartsCompany/NWMDC?$Product=GenuinePartsCompany/55709
http://www.aa1car.com/library/battery_safety.htm
jumpstart.gif


Safe Battery Jump Start Procedure
If a battery is dead or too low to crank the engine, you can jump start it using a pair of jumper cables to connect the low/dead battery to a good battery in another vehicle.

Pull the other vehicle as close as possible to the one with the dead/low battery, but DO NOT allow the vehicles to touch. Open the hood on both vehicles, and shut OFF the engine in the other vehicle.

Jumper cables are color coded, RED for POSITIVE (+) and BLACK for NEGATIVE (-). DO NOT mix up the cables or allow the metal ends to touch together because this may damage the battery, charging system and/or electronics on a vehicle.

To jump start the battery, proceed as follows:

1. Connect one end of the RED jumper cable to the POSITIVE (+)post on the dead battery. The POSITIVE battery post will be slightly larger than the NEGATIVE post, and will be marked with a PLUS (+) sign. There may also be a RED plastic protective cover over the positive battery post.

2. Connect the other end of the RED jumper cable to the POSITIVE (+) post on the good battery.

3. Connect one end of the BLACK jumper cable to the NEGATIVE (-) post on the good battery.

4. Connect the other end of the BLACK jumper cable to a heavy metal ground on the engine or frame of the vehicle with the dead battery. DO NOT make the final jumper connection to the NEGATIVE (-) post on the battery itself because it usually sparks and may ignite hydrogen fumes in the dead battery causing it to explode.


http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... 921x00003a

http://reviews.sears.com/2328/02871230000P/reviews.htm

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=46944

now remember BATTERY'S can explode if subjected to sparks or sudden surge loads, so make your connections, connect the , RED positive to the battery positive,(which is usually or has a + stamped next to it)negative second, (USUALLY BLACK) or it has a - stamped next to it,)I usually connect the neg, term to the frame,then THEN plug in the charger to the 110 volt feed.[/color]

heres the fender mount style

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=95534

viewtopic.php?f=70&t=2133&p=5744#p5744

http://www.batterytender.com/

Ive never personally used that brand but I have a couple friends that have, and so far everyone's been happy with the results, but Id point out that most if not all of these guys bought the larger size.
at about $70, its certainly not dirt cheap but its a bargain compared to replacing dead batteries almost yearly if you seldom drive your vette


btw the most common electrically related problem I see on a consistent basis is corroded or badly rusted or defective battery connections and grounds so before you go crazy its a good idea to replace those as a first step in any electrical problem diagnoses

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IM certainly not 100% correct on everything Ive ever posted, AND Im not one of those guys that knows everything and is not willing to learn, but please point out where IM wrong in your opinion here, theres never been a problem that IVE seen doing the connections then plugging in the charger THAT Ive seen, If IM wrong , educate me.
.thats the object of the whole site EDUCATION.
 
Like you I try to learn new stuff all the time.

Everything I have ever read about charging or jumping batteries said to connect the cables to the red (+) first and connect the black (-) cable to the frame away from the battery last.

That way it can't spark on the battery terminal and possibly cause the explosive hydrogen gas from the battery to blow-up in your face.
 
And...
When you disconnect the battery charger you should always take the Black, Negative (-) cable off the frame first.

Red (+) connection to the battery post; on first and off last.
 
If I had to list the ten tools that get used the most often in my shop,
Id bet #9 or #10 would be the shop battery charger, you just can,t work on a great many cars without finding someone left the interior lights on or the radio on or some accessory and the result was a drained battery, so the charger gets a good deal of use.
in the last 50 years , Ive more than likely owned 20 plus auto battery re-charger's of various types.
most function at least marginally well for a while ,
obviously you eventually get to see and develop a feel for the tool and realize that ,if your going to deal with them you need at least a mild passing understanding of the concepts,of what recharging a battery is ,and what the tools supposed to accomplish.
a decent battery charger converts the wall outlets 110 volt AC current to DC current and feeds it to your battery in a controlled manor, a battery will accept a recharge best, rather slowly, over several hours time, at a low charge rate, but if you need to start a car with a depleted battery, you need access to a fully charged high amp battery to spin your starter these are totally different requirements thus the need for a versatile shop battery charger, that's durable , fused or equipped with surge protection or breakers,and ideally one that's useful in diagnosing the cars battery alternator and electrical system under load.
and the first thing my younger son ask was why would you spend $200 --$500 on a battery charger,
when they sell those at HF for $5 ??

well as they say.. OATS are CHEAPER AFTER THEY GO THROUGH THE HORSE,
and if you know what your looking at you might want to think,
about what a tools used for,
and what you expect it to accomplish,
before just handing over your cash.
the plain fact is that if your cars not being driven for more than a day or two,the battery voltage in the car starts to drain as all the little gadgets like computers and clocks slowly use power and over time if you don,t replace that power being drained it will deplete the battery charge.


BTW THE cheap TRICKLE CHARGERS AND cheaper BATTERY MINDERS ARE NOT GOING TO BE VERY EFFECTIVE AS BATTERY CHARGERS THEY MAY MAINTAIN A FULLY CHARGED BATTERY BUT THEY WON,T DO SQUAT FOR ONE THAT'S DRAINED OF ITS CHARGE!
HF $5 trickle chargers, are meant to maintain a fully charged voltage in a battery , not re-charge a battery, WON,T CHARGE A DEAD BATTERY BUT THEY WILL GENERALLY KEEP ONE FROM GOING DEAD , if the cars not used,they work reasonably well WHEN THEY WORK, and IVE had a few of them work for years but most crap out in a few months, you simply check with a multi meter when its hooked to a battery thats measuring under 12 volts,and if its not putting out any voltage it goes in the trash even if the little red light works, at $5 each on sale you buy several and if each works for 4-6 months and occasionally one works for years your really not out much.
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now the smaller desk top lunch box size design like this one directly below, generally has fairly limited amps capacity range, thus its virtually worthless to jump start a really dead battery but it can recharge one rather quickly, amp ranges generally run from 2amps to 60 amps, but its fully up to the job, the problem is that the VAST majority are VERY CHEAPLY CONSTRUCTED and FRAGILE and by design subject to being placed on or near a car while its being charged in a location where the cords make it highly probable that someone will eventually trip over the connecting electrical cords causing the charger to fall, and be permanently and fatally damaged

I would suggest you don,t waste money on a cheap HF battery charger like this one I linked as they have a well documented history of not lasting very long in
service

https://www.harborfreight.com/10250-amp-12v-manual-charger-with-engine-start-60653.html


http://www.lowes.com/pd_595181-41462-SE50_1z0v11p__?productId=50256413&pl=1

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200331935_200331935

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200331939_200331939

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200331937_200331937

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-8173nep/applications/year/1996

HAVING A HIGH AMP (160-220 amp) QUALITY ALTERNATOR AND A DECENT BATTERY, WITH GOOD CLEAN CABLE CONNECTIONS HELPS IMMENSELY
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-8173nep/applications/year/1996

Schumacher 10 Amp Fully Automatic/Manual Deep-Cycle Charger
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I doubt Ive ever had one of these lunch box style battery chargers last a full two years before it either fell and busted or burned up or just stopped working and I bought some rather expensive brands too! useful if you don,t have access to something better but Id bet you won,t have it in two years time and will be forced to upgrade
shop roll around style seems to me to be far more durable if only for the reason that your highly unlikely due to its size and weight to lift it off the floor or put it up on a surface it can fall from it is also generally made a bit better and has at least a 60-120 amp range allowing it to help actually cold start a car with a virtually dead battery, I find it rather odd that they go to great lengths to show 200,250 and even 300 amp rates in advertising yet they are designed to work plugged into typical 110 volt 20 amp outlets

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200331941_200331941

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200332525_200332525


http://www.lowes.com/pd_602616-1703-K3149-1_1z0v11p__?productId=50200721&pl=1
$306
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http://www.lowes.com/pd_602618-1703-K3151-1_1z0v11p__?productId=50200725&pl=1
$484
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WALMART SELLS SEVERAL
$250
Walmart #: 550865501
Schumacher 300/200/60/30 Amp Manual Starter/Charger with Tester
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SO DOES LOWES AND HOME DEPOT

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200610603_200610603
$119
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$119
My current SEARS shop chargers nothing really specially , I'm looking to replace it ir at least supliment it with something better, but its at least lasted 12 years so its not junk, like many of the previous ones were


batterychdie.png

$371

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools
Item# 1677827

having a quick easy to use auto voltage test checker helps speed the diagnosis
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as most of us who work on cars know chasing minor electrical glitches is a P.I.T.A. and it helps a good deal to have at least a minimal quality multi meter and test leads, and a scan tool, that can be used to, locate isolate and test THRU insulation on wires, and a tool to pull trouble codes and do minimal programming.

21JGPEK8GVL._SS400_.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/AutoXray-6000-EZ- ... cr_pr_pb_t

F-113_01a_c_200.jpg

http://www.fluke.com/Fluke/usen/Digital ... ?PID=55990

image_12926.jpg

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-in-1-dig ... 98674.html

image_493.jpg

http://www.harborfreight.com/ac-dc-digi ... 37772.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-battery-alternator-tester-66842.html

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200331043_200331043

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200331048_200331048

http://www.jbtoolsales.com/schumach...l-6-12-volt/?gclid=CPvOkvyahskCFQMHkQodxbUGbg

RELATED THREADS YOULL PROBABLY NEED SHORTLY
http://www.howacarworks.com/electrical-systems/using-a-car-battery-charger

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...uys-don-t-look-at-the-clues.11176/#post-50125

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/testing-an-alternator.3222/#post-46703

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/battery-or-alternator.10003/#post-43220

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-down-an-electrical-drain.8493/#post-37179

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...uto-battery-and-related-info.3901/#post-26966

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...nting-a-battery-in-the-trunk.4395/#post-11556

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ats-wrong-start-with-the-basics.609/#post-810

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...elay-switch-locations-and-info.728/#post-1025

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...to-c3-c4-vette-wiring-diagrams.767/#post-1111




AND yes obviously the QUALITY and CARE taken in battery selection and maintenance MATERS, as does the company GUARANTEE
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...080024-P?searchTerm=optima+battery#fragment-3

http://www.wiringproducts.com/copper-battery-terminals

http://www.jegs.com/c/Batteries-Accessories_Battery-Cable-Kits-and-Terminals/165203/10002/-1?N=1165203&Ns=P_SalesVolume|1&Nrpp=&Tab=SKU&storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&No=30
WHAT DO YOU GENTLEMEN USE FOR YOUR BATTERY CHARGER AND WHY DID YOU BUY THAT PARTICULAR MODEL??

https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-FR01335-200A-Battery-Charger/dp/B07895QQBM

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/battery-charger-for-the-shop.928/#post-55878

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...tery-chargers-consumer-reports-in-2018.14954/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/jumper-cables.4055/#post-61891

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...race-car-battery-chargers-my-own-picks.14955/
 
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if you want to get fancy, for the same 300-500 dollar price range ( and much more) you can get a multi functioning tool not just a charger, but a charger that will do diagnostics on your charging / starting systems.... one that will load test test a battery, do a current draw test on a starter while its on the car, etc.
 
this could become a very useful thread ,especially if someone could go into far more detail on what your referring too,
and post details, schematics and parts sources and part numbers etc.
on building a battery charger and automotive charging system tester.
and if anyone knows enough about the subject I'm 100% sure that you could fabricate a very,
effective battery charger and diagnostic testing & charging system testing
station from easily available components and parts available at most,
salvage yards and electronic component supply stores
like most electronics ID bet that once you break it down to generic component parts you could assemble one rated for higher AMPS and VOLTAGE and do it for FAR lower cost if you think it through carefully





electrically conductive corrosion protective grease
dielectricgr.jpg


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/battery-charger-for-the-shop.928/#post-55689

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/current-draw.11310/#post-51485

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/battery-or-alternator.10003/#post-43220

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...trical-wiring-for-a-tbucket.10038/#post-39055
it might even be a very useful value added accessory to an engine testing stand
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/engine-testing-stand.11753/#post-55476

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...uto-battery-and-related-info.3901/#post-10343

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/testing-an-alternator.3222/#post-8575

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/multi-meters.3110/#post-8302

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/engine-test-run-stand.930/#post-40966

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...urrent-flow-grounds-and-more.3504/#post-54623

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...lay-switch-locations-and-info.728/#post-54562

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/battery-or-alternator.10003/#post-43220

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/lots-of-wiring-info-diagrams.317/#post-27440

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-down-an-electrical-drain.8493/#post-37179

http://test.autometer.com/sites/default/files/2650-791X-10rH.pdf

http://www.batterymart.com/p-acc-sb-5.html
 
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i have an old snap on cart one at work that you can hook up to your battery and charge, jump, and do a load test....

it will also tell you the efficiency of your alternator when running with a load on it, and you can use it to determine the current draw of your cranking system

since starting charging and battery are all so closely related (a bad starter can kill an alternator or a battery, a bad battery can kill a starter or an alternator... etc) the machine with a couple extra features can go a long way in the right tech's hands. ive had no reason to use it other than jump starting a dead truck but people talk about the machine like its the goose that lays golden eggs... ill see if i remember sometime this week to get a model number off it and ill expand further with features and descriptions from the internet.
 
I have an old Craftsman 6 & 12 volt charger that has a 225 amp boost to start when battery is low, it's bout 25 yrs old, I aquirred it when my Dad passed away.
 
i have an old snap on cart one at work that you can hook up to your battery and charge, jump, and do a load test....

it will also tell you the efficiency of your alternator when running with a load on it, and you can use it to determine the current draw of your cranking system

since starting charging and battery are all so closely related (a bad starter can kill an alternator or a battery, a bad battery can kill a starter or an alternator... etc) the machine with a couple extra features can go a long way in the right tech's hands. ive had no reason to use it other than jump starting a dead truck but people talk about the machine like its the goose that lays golden eggs... ill see if i remember sometime this week to get a model number off it and ill expand further with features and descriptions from the internet.
Phil, this one sounds good. I wonder if one can be found doing the same for a lot less money - SnapOn is expensive for the occasional user. I'm running the Gold series batteries from Advance Auto in all my vehicles. They come back from the deep dead regions when nothing is left and sitting a month or more in that state with a jump from another vehicle. My Craftsman charger will charge until it says 75 to 80% then it says "Bad" battery. But jump it and let it run in park for 20 minutes and it's fine to restart the next day if you don't go right out for a run.
 
I've heard and read over and over again not to store a car battery on a concrete floor because it will discharge it. I always thought that didn't make much sense to me and I usually ignored it. I saw it mentioned again today in a post so I decided to do a little research.

https://www.mcgill.ca/oss/article/ge...tored-concrete


Have you heard the one about batteries discharging when stored on concrete? Apparently, some people have taken to storing 12V batteries—the kind used in electric wheel chairs and emergency lighting systems—on wooden shelves to maximize their life expectancy. Is there a spark of truth to this or is this claim dead in the water?

A bit of research reveals this to be a zombie truth: it used to be that batteries would discharge faster when stored on concrete, but newer technology put the kibosh on this phenomenon. Yet the belief persists.

A hundred years ago, this rule-of-thumb was quite useful, as the case around the battery was made of wood and the electrical cells were glass. If the concrete floor underneath was wet, the wooden case would swell, causing the glass cells to break.

Subsequent batteries would sometimes lack a case altogether, allowing electrical discharges into the concrete. Then came porous rubber cases which contained carbon atoms: this also created electrical activity between the cells in the presence of moisture, leading to prematurely discharged batteries.

The batteries of today, however, are encased in plastic or hard rubber, which significantly reduces this energy waste. Batteries do naturally self-discharge over time, however, but this is due to an internal process, not the type of material on which the battery is sitting.

A compound called lead sulphate naturally forms during battery use and it can crystallize onto the negative plate of the battery, especially when the battery rests for a long time. These crystals end up impeding battery performance over time.

A reader asked us to look into this myth because he was concerned about battery life in parking meters. These meters all use a 12V battery to either deliver main power or serve as a backup, and these batteries sit on a sheet of steel set atop concrete or, sometimes, directly on the concrete itself.

If these batteries do discharge faster than expected, I suspect it has nothing to do with the material upon which they sit, but with the ambient temperature. Montreal summers can be pretty brutal: we had a maximum of 32 degrees Celsius last June. I can only imagine how hot it gets inside a black parking meter in downtown Montreal.

Heat is bad for batteries. According to manufacturer Pacific Power Batteries, a car battery in a hot climate will last, on average, only two thirds as long as it would in a cold climate. For example, a battery that lasts 4 years in a cold environment would only last 2 years and 8 months in a hot climate. Keeping the battery on a slab of concrete, which can act as a heat sink, might actually extend its life by absorbing some of that heat.

Next time someone advises you to store your heavy-duty battery on wood instead of concrete, remind them that battery cases have changed radically over the past century and that concrete is actually good for storage now.

And remember that batteries, as a rule, last longer when they’re cool.

__________________

interesting bit of info
 
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