BBC is it really necessary for 4 bolts or stds good enough?

riv187 · Sep 26, 2014

Hi
New here to forum. I have a 1969 front engine dragster I bracket race with. Currently sbc with hilborn. This runs well and shows 560+ hp on a 400 (bored .060) 2 bolt main block with studs and Hard-blok in bottom end. Has 14-1 on methanol. Car weighs 1531 with me in it,,and 5500 stall conv. and PG tranny.

My next engine is a 496,13-1, methanol, also hilborn injected with decent roller cam. Block is 2 bolt mkIV. I bought studs for top and bottom. I'm shooting for 780hp.
Will 2 bolt block be OK with the studs? I've thought about putting homemade 4140 straps on top of caps with longer studs to match. Good idea or waste at my level? Putting Hard-Blok in bottom of BBC good like I done on my 400SBC ?

I run the sbc 7200 rpms at finish and the cam I have for BBC will like same rpms.
I've heard the 4 bolt argument vs 2 bolt,,,but have never seen a failed 2 bolt BBC. I have the block bored to match my pistons now,,,and consider adapting stock 4 bolt caps,,as well as splayed centers..but wonder if its over rated just as my SBC 440 running 2 bolt stock caps is running fine on 14-1 at over 7K. Money isn't easy and every bit saved is appreciated.
Thanks for responses.

Indycars · Sep 26, 2014

Re: BBC is it really necessary for 4 bolts or stds good enou

First Welcome to the Forum!

Let me say I can't speak from experience, but below is something to
think about.

With a 4.25 inch stroke that's going to put you right at 5000 FPM Mean
Piston Speed at 7000 RPM, which is pretty high.

If you have a piston & pin that weighs 500 grams and turn that 496 to
7000 RPM, then just one piston is going to weigh over 4400 lbs. That's
4400 lbs trying to pull the rod apart. At 7200 RPM it jumps to 4670 lbs.

If you know what a good number for your pistons, then you can calculated
the stresses for your engine more precisely by using the Excel spreadsheet
linked to below.

viewtopic.php?f=99&t=6636

More calculators below:

viewforum.php?f=99

I guess you know someone is going to give trouble for not having any
pictures! :lol: And just how fast does that monster go in the 1/4 mile???

riv187 · Sep 26, 2014

Re: BBC is it really necessary for 4 bolts or stds good enou

I appreciate reply. I have Wiseco pistons, but haven't weighed yet.
I race 1/8 mile as that is what almost everything has went to in Florida. I go 130 in 1/8 with small block and 5.20s. My 60 ft is 1.18s now. Should be around 160-165 in 1/4,mid to low 8s if I went to a 1/4 track. Hoping the 496 will get me 4.70-4.80s in 1/8th. or 7.50s in 1/4 mile and 178mph.
A good source you mabe aware of for calculators.
http://wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm

Here's pictures if they load..one before went back to wheelie bar....Stand it up and it would stay there till you lifted ..nearly flipped it over twice. Looks cool for crowd but sucks for ET and consistency. I tried adding weight to front and balancing it 2ft off at launch,,but still not real consistent. With wheelie bar it keeps front end down about 6-7" high...but all motion is forward...and reactions are more consistent,quicker 60s and ETs lower.
The BBC pictured has the heads and injection I'll be using,Hilborne and CFE cnc canfields.
I heard,go DART block,,,but the weight is a big factor for me.
Thanks for input!
Brian

Indycars · Sep 26, 2014

Re: BBC is it really necessary for 4 bolts or stds good enou

I'm just getting ready to go in and eat, but tomorrow I'm sure I can up with
something smart to say.

grumpyvette · Sep 26, 2014

Re: BBC is it really necessary for 4 bolts or stds good enou

as Im sure your aware the difference in total weight between the SBC you ran and the BBC your thinking of running, is in the case of the BBC enine,in the neighborhood of about 80lbs-140lbs different depending on components selected, that weight increase is mostly from larger and stronger parts , but there are limits to what the stock component will endure over the long haul.
(even with the stronger ARP main cap studs)
Ive personally built a couple dozen 489-496 big blocks, some with stock chevy blocks, a few with DART blocks and a couple with WORLD blocks I vastly prefer the DART BLOCKS, they have at least in the examples I worked with been well machined and had zero issues.
Id advise you to be more concerned with maintaining a reasonably thick and rigid cylinder walls as maintaining ring seal , than pushing the bore size to max, and on a race engine Id get the compression ratio up in the 12.7:1-13.7:1 range.
that extra displacement of a 496 with its 4.25" stroke and 6.385" connecting rods and the increased component weight potentially increases the stress on the main caps and bearings to far higher levels than the 3.75" stroke of the 400 sbc engine
while theres no question that the chevy big block , block is fairly strong pushing a 4.25" stroke crank to over 6000rpm and expecting the two bolt main caps to still prevent movement is in my opinion asking for rather UN-reasonable demands, yes theres a hundred guys that build 427 chevy big blocks and spin them to 6000rpm plus all the time and get good results, theres even a few guys doing it with a 4" 454 crank or a 468 BBC in a two bolt block, but the stress goes up rapidly as the stroke increases and the rpms increase and stress is cumulative.
you may get away with something for months, but thats no guarantee your not damaging the bearings or stressing the block , in a way that WILL eventually cause it too fail.
there are SPLAYED MAIN CAP conversion caps to convert a 2 bolt block to a splayed 4 bolt config, these add rigidity, and tend to increase durability.
theres ZERO QUESTION in my mind that converting the center 3 main caps to splayed bolt config and using ARP main studs and outer splayed cap bolts increases block rigidity enough to be worth the added cost if your building a 496 with that 4.25" stroke and intend on spinning it over 6000rpm, and I would strongly suggest the AFTERMARKET connecting rods with ARP 2000 series 7/16" rod bolts, as a good minimum precaution
keep in mind that main cap STUDS will have the entire threaded length of the main cap stud fully threaded into the block threads BEFORE the clamping force is applied and that the end extending through the main cap will have a finer thread pitch, that will allow a greater clamping force to be applied with identical torque wrench , torque loads

ARP said:
Do I need to re-torque my head bolts or studs?
If you follow the ARP installation instructions, there should be no need to do a re-torque. However, it may be necessary under certain circumstances if the gasket manufacturer’s instructions require it, particularly if a fire ring has been installed. ARP recommends not doing a re-torque on a hot engine.
Do I need lube on my bolts or studs?
We recommend using ARP Ultra-Torque lube to ensure an even, accurate clamp load and to prevent thread galling. This is particularly important for stainless steel fasteners. The lube should be used under the head of the bolt or the bearing surface of the nut and on the threads, unless a thread sealer is used.
Can I use Loctite or any thread locker instead of ARP Ultra-Torque assembly lube?
Yes, you can. Some engine builders use blue Loctite on the stud end that goes into the block. Do NOT use Loctite on the nuts for the head studs or main studs. Always ensure that the threads are clean prior to applying any lube. When using Loctite, make sure you assemble the parts before the Loctite cures. You can use Loctite instead of ARP Ultra-Torque, but do not use them together.
Do I have to use Ultra-Torque?
We spent two years developing ARP Ultra-Torque and we have come up with what we believe to be the ultimate fastener lubricant. All of our torque values are based on using Ultra-Torque. We do not provide torque values for use with any other fastener assembly lubricant (such as motor oil, moly lube, etc.) Use these other lubes at your own risk, as their use may lead to a part or engine failure, for which we are not responsible.
Do the threads of the bolts or studs going into the block need lube?
Yes. On blind holes use a small amount of ARP Ultra-Torque lube on those threads. Additionally, if the studs protrude into a water jacket, you will need to clean the threads in the block to remove all coolant and oil residue. Apply a liberal amount of ARP thread sealer or a high temperature thread sealer.
Are ARP bolts and studs re-usable?
Yes. As long as the fasteners have been installed and torqued correctly, and show no visible signs of damage, they can be re-used. If they show any signs of thread galling or corrosion, they should be replaced. In the case of rod bolts, if any of them have taken a permanent set and have stretched by .001” or longer, you should replace them immediately. See page 29 in the catalog for more detailed information on this critical measurement.
Do I install my studs into the block first?
After test fitting the studs in the block, it is generally easier to remove the studs, put the head gasket and head on the block and install the studs. This will reduce the possibility of damaging the upper threads of the stud and scraping the cylinder mounting holes. If the block has no alignment dowel pins, you can use the stud to align the gasket and head.
Does the chamfer on the inside diameter of the washer go up or down?
The chamfered side of the washer goes up, towards the head of the bolt. The chamfer is there to create clearance for the radius between the bolt shank and the bolt head.
Do the head studs only go in hand, or finger tight?
Yes, cylinder head studs are installed only hand tight. Other than the use of an allen wrench on the hex broached into the end of the stud (to ease installation, not to apply torque), use no tools to seat them in the block. However, it is extremely important to ensure that the studs are fully bottomed out in the hole in the block and not hung up on damaged or corroded threads in the block preventing the stud from being fully seated. This is often indicated when the stud threads extend past the deck surface.
I have heard that some people have had trouble with newly installed cylinder head studs leaking water. How do I make sure I don’t have the same problem with my new ARP head studs?
Prior to installing your new head studs, it is very important that you have clean threads on both the block and the studs. First, clean up all the threads in the block with a thread-cleaning chaser, NOT a regular tap. Thread chasers are designed so that they do not remove material from threads but merely remove debris and corrosion. Make sure you go all the way to the end of the threads in the bottom of the hole. Then clean out all the holes in the block with brake or carburetor cleaner to remove all the debris. Make sure the threads on the new studs are clean. Use a liberal amount of ARP thread sealer, high temp silicone or Loctite to ensure that there will be no air pockets that can cause leaks. Then follow the ARP instructions for installing the fasteners.
Are ARP’s torque recommendations the same as the vehicle manufacturer’s specifications?
Sometimes ARP will recommend using torque specifications that are different than the manufacturer, but not always. Our kits are engineered for specific applications, factoring in the necessary clamp load we’re trying to achieve, material type, block or head material, etc. To achieve our target clamp load, it may be necessary to use a different torque figure than what the factory calls out.
The torque/stretch number listed for my after-market connecting rod is different than what ARP calls out for the same bolt. Which specification do I use?
Refer back to the rod manufacturer and use their torque/stretch value.
What drill size do I need for my wheel studs?
To determine what drill size you need, you will need to know your axle/hub material and the wheel stud knurl diameter. If your axle/hub material is cast iron or steel, your drill size will be 0.005” smaller than the knurl diameter. If your axle/hub material is aluminum, your drill size will be 0.007” less than the knurl diameter. The Wheel Studs section in the catalog, pages 76 & 77, list the knurl diameter size.
What is the difference between ARP2000 and Custom Age 625+ studs?
ARP2000 is an alloy steel that has a tensile strength of 220,000 PSI. Custom Age is an austenitic alloy that has a tensile strength of 260-280,000 PSI, providing a greater clamping force than that of ARP 2000.
Why does L19 material require special handling?
Like most high-strength quench and temper steels, L19 requires special care to avoid hydrogen embrittlement or stress corrosion. The material is easily contaminated and subject to stress corrosion. The parts must be kept well oiled at all times and not exposed to moisture. Wearing gloves while handing L19 parts is a good precaution.
I have heard that the black oxide bolts and studs I get from ARP will eventually rust. Is this true and if it is, can it be prevented?
Yes, the bolts or studs will rust. Black oxide is a conversion coating formed by a chemical reaction with the iron in the metal to form an integral protective surface. It is NOT a permanent coating that has bonded to the surface of the fastener. The black oxide process is a short-term rust preventative only and any part exposed to the atmosphere will show signs of rust in a matter of days. Frequent application of oil to the part will increase corrosion resistance. In addition, the bolt head could be painted with black epoxy primer, followed by semi-flat paint or clear lacquer.

look closely at ARP main studs have one end with course threads matching the O.E.M. block threads and the outer end with finner pitch threads, that use a harden washer and 12 point flange nuts

main cap studs, studs are NOT torqued into the block!
studs are screwed into the block for the full thread length then backed out 1/2 turn,
STUDS are installed through the main caps, before the nuts and washers are installed,
I generally oil the threads on the lower stud threads in the block,
but no loads are applied to the studs until the threads in the block are full length engaged,
into the block and the washers & nuts on the studs are tightened.

How to Install ARP Main Cap Studs - Hot Rod Engine Tech

Serious race engine builders mostly use high strength ARP studs to anchor the main caps. Studs provide a more even clamping force with higher tensile strength than most bolts and they are less highly stressed in the block ...
hotrodenginetech.com

How to Install ARP Main Cap Studs

Serious race engine builders mostly use high strength ARP studs to anchor the main caps.
Studs provide a more even clamping force with higher tensile strength than most bolts and they are less highly stressed in the block .

1. Clean and inspect ALL threads in the cylinder block thoroughly. After initial tank cleaning, dry the block and inspect threads closely. Chase the threads with the appropriate size ARP thread chaser if necessary.
2. To prepare the threaded holes select a small stiff bristle nylon cleaning brush as found in engine brush kits available from online retailers.
We prefer to scrub the main cap bolt threads with a brush and brake cleaner and then blow them out with air to get them spotlessly clean prior to assembly. At this point you should also ensure that the main cap mounting surfaces are spotlessly clean and free of any nicks, burrs or other contamination. This step is important to ensure perfect seating of the main caps.
3. Clean and inspect ALL studs and verify all dimensions. Remove all shipping lubrication from the studs until they are squeaky clean.
4. Screw the studs into the appropriate holes HAND TIGHT ONLY! While not specified by the manufacturer, we prefer to brush a very thin coating of ARP Ultra-Torque fastener assembly lube on the threads. Do not over-tighten the studs in the block.
Note: If permanent mounting of the studs is desired, Loctite may be applied to the threads.
If you do this the fasteners must be final torqued before the Loctite sets up.

5. Install the main caps and check for proper fit and alignment.
Splayed bolt main caps require outer stud installation after each main cap is installed.
Install the inner studs and use them as a guide for the main cap.
Tap the cap into place and then install the outer studs. (USE A DEAD BLOW MALLET)
6. Use a small application brush to coat the stud threads and washers with assembly lube and install the nuts finger tight.
Whether using ARP fasteners or others,
we recommend ARP Ultra-Torque fastener assembly lubricant to ensure consistent torque readings.
Lubing with regular motor oil is discouraged due to inconsistent clamping forces. (THIS IS REFERING TO THE UPPER FINER THREADS< NOT THE
CORSER STUD THREADS IN THE BLOCK
7. To apply the proper preload to the studs follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Torque the nuts in three even steps until you reach the recommended torque spec.
Note: clamping forces will change when installing new studs. Check the main bearing housing bores for proper size and out of round condition. In most cases align honing the mains with the new studs properly torqued will be necessary to ensure proper fit and clamping forces.
Editors note: If you found this article helpful, please click HERE to let them know and to order you copy of their 2013 catalog.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/torque-specs-calculator-links-etc.1222/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/splayed-main-caps.1014/

O.E.M. factory bolts use the 110 lb torque
ARP main cap bolts and STUDS CAN and frequently DO require a different torque
splayed aftermarket main caps generally use smaller diameter outer bolts that require less torque

INVESTING THE TIME AND EFFORT IN PURCHASING AND READING A FEW BOOKS WILL BE VERY COST EFFECTIVE

87vette81big · Sep 27, 2014

Re: BBC is it really necessary for 4 bolts or stds good enou

Internal rotating stresses are proportional to engine rpm increases or decreases.
With a 4-1/4 " stroke I think you may find best overall performance in the 6000-6200-6500 RPM Shifting and Trap Speed range.
I think a 2-bolt Mark 4 will work OK if you stay within these guidellines.
Aluminum rods weigh slightly less than a Steel rod of similar center to center specs.
Titanium even less but its out of your budget.
Bill Miller Engineering makes the best Aluminum rods.
What I would choose to use in your Diggger.

To obtain a 178-180 Mph trap speed with the same current gears used you will have to Rev the engine much higher than 7k.
The 496 will make another 100-150 ft/lbs torque over your 400sbc.
Best to gear your Digger higher numerical.
In a Pontiac 400 , 4.10's may work best.
455 with 4.21"stroke likes 3.08-3.23. And they run faster in 1/4 mile by .50-1.5 seconds built correct.

Recalculate for gears to put you in 6200-6500.

With long strokes and cubes Pull the Gear. It will and effortless.

Indycars · Sep 27, 2014

Re: BBC is it really necessary for 4 bolts or stds good enou

Thanks for the photos, that must be one wild ride, especially with the wheels
5 feet in the air!!!

The first calcs were done with a 6 inch rod, which will make it looks worse
than the 6.385, but the accurate piston weight more than makes up for that.

It's just incredable to think that the piston is going from zero to 93.3 mph
and back to zero in just 4.25 inches...... Wow!

Calculations with the newest numbers at 7000 RPM.

87vette81big · Sep 27, 2014

Re: BBC is it really necessary for 4 bolts or stds good enou

With a Short rod of 6.385 when compared to 6-5/8 or 7" common in other Tall deck Big blocks, cylinder wall loads are pretty high.
Piston speeds secondary issues to me.
Working with 2-bolt mains & limited budget $ to get the job done.
6,200 Redline work nice if possible.

riv187 · Sep 27, 2014

Re: BBC is it really necessary for 4 bolts or stds good enou

Hi
each I'm reading everything twice. I respect your advice as I have read and re read post to others that help me learn. I got the scat pro comp rods as they look like quality, cheap for the money,and lighter than Hs. The fact Vizard used and recommends them in both big and small blocks sold me. I use the 5.7s with std 8740 bolts in my SCB. I did not see anywhere in vizards books or articles about ugrading to arp 2000 bolts. I called ARP tech and he said 8740 is probably sufficient,,but the 2000s are nice insurance. I'm back forth on that one.
I'm counting on gaining about 80lbs going to BBC with aluminum heads vs SBC with aftermarket iron( EQ215/50ccchambers). My car bounces around in pits and on return road as the frame is long,moly,and no suspension. The extra weight may really be a nusance in the pits with rough pavment. When this car wheelied before,,it was a climbing action that went up till sparks shot from the rear frame and I lifted gently to ease it down..near 330 mark. Before the front touched I hammered it again to ease the landing. It was different than door slammers jerking a quick wheelie on line and coming back down immediately. Wish had better photos than from phone. For gears,,4.56 now and 14/32 tires. I expect i'll need 3.90-4.10 to keep 7200 rpm,,,at 15mph more in 1/8th. Maybe a 3.73 would be better and gear it for 6200-6400. May require a cam change though. It's comp cam,324IR-10. 286/286,748/714 and 110LSA. Heads are 320cc and flow 388 at 700 if I remember the sheet. The injection is smallish and would favor the lower revs with it's tiny 2 7/16th butterflies.
It is a fun ride,,as a fellow said,,you drive a RED,,you EXPERIANCE a FED. I carry a rag on my lap to wipe my shield after the burnouts so I can see tree clearly.. My new helmet looks like crap with marks on both sides from my head rattling in there,,whole thing covered with specs of rubber and vapors mists each time as the methanol boils out of the oil. Don't know how close Grumpy lives to Lakeland,,but if your able to get in,,I'm fine with a test pass...even if it's only a easy one or half track..it is a cool experience. It drives 100% better with wheelie bar so I'm safe letting others in it.

87vette81big · Sep 27, 2014

Re: BBC is it really necessary for 4 bolts or stds good enou

I love your DIGGER.
Everyone is low on cash $.
Trying to figure out how to go fast & reliable takes Homework.
WELCOME.

Brian R.

philly · Sep 27, 2014

Re: BBC is it really necessary for 4 bolts or stds good enou

wow welcome to the site and nice car!

Wilson1 · Nov 22, 2014

Re: BBC is it really necessary for 4 bolts or stds good enou

I have run two bolt, four bolt, and a Dart block. My 468 is a 2 bolt block that I have been running for years without any issues. If you are going to keep the car in the low 7000 RPM range, you will be fine. BUT - Yes, buy the ARP 2000 rod bolts. Every time you freshen your motor, put new rod bolts in and new roller lifters if you are running a roller cam. Buy good roller lifters, like Crower, make sure you have ARP main studs. Your cam at 748 lift won't kill springs if you use good ones. Always check your spring pressure every year.... The key to running a two bolt stock block is to not go over about .080 on the over bore, I know people will tell you that .100 is safe, but if you don't want to bring your stuff home in a garbage bag stay way on the safe side. After all I assume you are bracket racing. I would have your block sonic tested so you know where you are. I know doing all the little things is a pain, but it will give you many days of trouble free racing.

One main thing about running a BBC in a dragster is the oiling system. I assume you will be running a wet sump. DON'T run a flat dragster pan. You will starve the motor on shut down. Get a good 7" deep sump pan, yes it will fit, that has good baffles. Reher Morrison has the best set up I have ever seen. It is expensive, but I can get on the brakes at 170 with the chute out and never drop below 50 lbs.

If you don't short cut the little things, you will be a much happier camper. Even if you have to run the SBC for another year. Did I mention - Buy the ARP2000 LOL

Grumpy · Feb 16, 2018

I got asked if
" purchasing the ARP main cap bolts was going to provide the main cap retention strength required in a GEN V 496 BBC 4 bolt main cap, engine build that, I'm planing, that would eventually be expected to hold up to 600 ft lbs and 600 hp"

main cap and head Studs should never be torqued into the block. They should only be lightly snugged, at most or finger tight to full depth then back out 1/4 turn in clean threads
UN-machined SBC blocks have a nominal 9.0" deck height,
its very common to have the deck on a previously undecked block actually measure 9.022"-9.025"

UN-machined BBC blocks have a nominal 9.8" deck height,
its very common to have the deck on a previously undecked block actually measure 9.822-9.825

the cost difference between buying ARP bolts vs ARP main cap studs,
is minimal and the studs provide a more rigid lower assembly and less wear and stress on the lower block main caps and block web support,the more research and thought you put into the project before you buy parts or pay for machine work the better off you'll tend too be!
Id point out that every decision you make is a compromise in some areas, by the time you buy parts and pay for machine work on a stock engine block you may be close to the price of the AFTERMARKET DART BLOCK, with its much stronger and thicker casting made from a better grade of cast iron.
Id point out that if your going to use the ARP main cap studs you should have a long talk with your favorite local machine shop and strongly consider having the main caps line honed to insure the crank journals are truely properly lined up as the swap to ARP studs will result in a bit more clamping rigidity, and strength, you might also consider looking into swapping to billet steel main caps rather than the stock cast iron main caps while your into increasing the BBC lower rotating assembly rigidity.
yes you might also want to select the main cap studs with the windage tray threaded extensions..

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-135-5606

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-235-5606

paint, marker etc. tends to wash off, you really should lightly die stamp the main caps

https://www.harborfreight.com/36-pi...mping-set-63675.html?_br_psugg_q=number+stamp

Chevy BBC 454 OEM 4 Bolt Replacement Billet Steel Main Caps

Brand: Procomp Electronics
Part Number: PCE289.1005
Part Type: Main Caps
Main Cap Position: 4-center
Main Cap Fastener Style: Straight
Main Cap Fastener Quantity: 4-bolt
Main Journal Type: Large journal
Main Cap Fasteners Included: No
Main Cap Material: Billet steel
Machine Work Required: Yes
Quantity: Sold as a set of 4.
Notes: Replacement for factory 4-bolt blocks.
Procomp Electronics billet main caps are precision CNC-machined from superior-quality 1025 billet steel. They come available as stock replacements (straight bolt) or with splayed outer bolt holes. The splayed caps feature 10 degree angled outer holes to positively reinforce and tie the block together. These extreme main cap sets consist of the center four caps. Procomp Electronics billet main caps improve reliability in highly stressed engines by reducing distortion of the main bearing bores, and increasing the caps resistance to closing up under high loads.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-rod-bolt-stretch-preload.11050/#post-60457

https://racetoolsdirect.com/product...MI-cu3zOzv3gIVi4nICh1iVgDKEAQYASABEgJ2AvD_BwE

https://www.amazon.com/JEGS-80591-B...159417&sr=8-3&keywords=rod+bolt+stretch+gauge

http://www.eaglerod.com/mosmodule/bolt_torque.html

What Do I Torque the Bolts To?
The first step is to identify which bolts you have. Eagle rods are offered with a variety of different bolts. Each of which has a different torque requirement. Proper bolt torque is paramount to rod strength and life. Eagle does not use "off the shelf" ARP bolts. Eagle has ARP custom make bolts to our specifications. DO NOT use torque specs for off-the-shelf ARP bolts. Here is a diagram of some important bolt identifying features.

The following chart shows the head of the bolt, the dimensions, and the proper torque spec. Be careful! the heads of some bolts look similar and some even have the same markings. DO NOT identify the bolt by the head alone. Verify dimensions also! If the head of your bolts do not match one of the pictures below - you do not have Eagle rods! Please consult the manufacturer of your rods for proper torque specs. Their torque spec is most likely different than ours! Always use ARP moly lube on the threads and under the head of the bolt when torquing!

material
socket
size
under
head
length
thread
size
torque
8740
7/16"
1.500"
3/8"
40 ftlbs

material
socket
size
under
head
length
thread
size
torque
8740
7/16"
1.600"
7/16"
63 ftlbs

material
socket
size
under
head
length
thread
size
torque
8740
7/16"
1.750"
7/16"
63 ftlbs

material
socket
size
under
head
length
thread
size
torque
8740
7/16"
1.800"
7/16"
63 ftlbs

material
socket
size
under
head
length
thread
size
torque
2000
3/8"
1.500"
5/16"
28 ftlbs

material
socket
size
under
head
length
thread
size
torque
2000
7/16"
1.500"
3/8"
43 ftlbs

material
socket
size
under
head
length
thread
size
torque
2000
7/16"
1.600"
7/16"
75 ftlbs

material
socket
size
under
head
length
thread
size
torque
2000
7/16"
1.800"
7/16"
75 ftlbs

material
socket
size
under
head
length
thread
size
torque
L-19
1/2"
1.600"
7/16"
79 ftlbs

material
socket
size
under
head
length
thread
size
torque
L-19
1/2"
1.750"
7/16"
79 ftlbs

BBC is it really necessary for 4 bolts or stds good enough?

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BBC is it really necessary for 4 bolts or stds good enough?

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How to Install ARP Main Cap Studs - Hot Rod Engine Tech

How to Install ARP Main Cap Studs