bellhousings and correctly installing bellhousings

Discussion in 'transmission and Drive train' started by grumpyvette, Oct 24, 2008.

  1. grumpyvette

    grumpyvette Administrator Staff Member


    Pilot bushing clearance to trans input shaft should be .001 to .004
    ...with .002-.003 being considered about ideal

    Default SBC Flywheel & Flexplate part numbers
    Small Block Chevy Flywheel Part Numbers
    Part # DIA. Teeth Comments
    3991406 Flywheel, LW Nodular Iron for HD 10.5" Clutch
    3991469 14" 168 two-piece seal, internally balanced
    3986394 14" 168 400 External balance, two-piece seal
    10105832 14" 168 86-later, one-piece rear seal, ext. balance
    14088671 12.75" 153 86-later, one piece rear seal, int. balance
    14085720 12.75" 153 Lightweight (15 lbs.), nodular iron, two-piece seal, int bal Will work with a clutch diameter of 10.4" only. Crank flange bolt pattern is 3.58". Will work with a clutch diameter of 10.4" OR 11.0". Crank flange bolt pattern is 3.0"
    14088646 12.75" 153 86-up, Lightweight (15 lbs.), nodular iron, one-piece rear seal, ext bal
    14088648 14" 168 86-up, one-piece rear seal, ext. balance
    14088650 12.75" 153 86-up, one-piece rear seal, ext balance Will work with a clutch diameter of 10.4" only. Crank flange bolt pattern is 3.0"
    10174482 89-up with six-speed m/t, requires starter (10455709)
    Common clutch sizes are: 10.4", 11.0", and 11.85". Some flywheels are drilled for two different clutch patterns.
    12.75" are usually 153 tooth and the other larger 14" diam. are 168 tooth flywheel or flex plate designs, the larger 14"/168 tooth designs fit the much stronger 11" clutches.... obviously the 14" can use a larger clutch, but require a larger bell housing that is why some stock bell housings won,t fit the larger fly wheels and of course the starter used must match

    Small Block Chevy Flexplate Part Numbers
    Part # DIA. Teeth Comments
    471529 12.75" 153 Two-piece seal blocks, int balance
    471578 14" 168 400 ext. bal, two-piece rear seal
    471598 14" 168 Two-piece seal blocks, internal balance
    10128412 12.75" 153 86-up, one-piece rear seal ext. balance
    10128413 14" 168 86-up, one-piece seal, extra thick, HD, ext bal
    10128414 14" 168 86-96, one-piece rear seal, ext. balance
    14088761 14" 168 89-up 350 HO, one-piece rear seal, ext. bal.
    14088765 12.75" 153 86-up, one-piece rear seal, ext. bal.
    14088767 14" 168 89-up 350 HO, one-piece rear seal, HD, ext. bal

    viewtopic.php?f=71&t=584&p=21690&hilit=bell+housing#p21690 ... P4573.aspx
    )to get the old rusted bell housing alignment pins loose heat them with a propane torch for about 2 minutes then spray the pins with freeze spray for a minimum of 8-9 seconds with
    [​IMG] ... B001VXU474
    after rapid heat and cool cycles, they should easily twist out with vise grips or punch out with a hammer and drift. the new pins use locking expansion allen key locks, once correctly indexed

    Due to manufacturers’ machining tolerances of engine blocks in relationship to dowel pin location, it is quite possible for
    the crankshaft centerline and bellhousing bore to be misaligned. With the transmission installed in a misaligned condition,
    several problems can occur, such as pilot bearing and main shaft bearing wear, difficulty in shifting, and in extreme cases
    breakage of transmission gears and cases. While most housings will fall within the allowable limits, it is good insurance to
    check for register bore runout whenever any housing or engine block is installed. Most factory service manuals will outline
    the checking procedure, but will not give correctional measures necessary to ensure trouble-free standard transmission
    operation, short of trial and error with switching of various O.E. housings.
    Offset dowel pins are available from Lakewood Industries to ensure correct adapter housing installation. For checking, you
    will need a dial indicator (preferably
    1. Remove clutch assembly from flywheel and install bellhousing on engine block.
    (It is easier when you leave the clutch assembly off the flywheel.)
    2. Install dial indicator base on the flywheel and adjust plunger to contact the register
    bore of the housing. (See photo.)
    3. Rotate the flywheel and note indicator reading. Misalignment is one-half of the
    indicator reading (maximum allowable is .005”).
    4. To correct off-center condition, select the offset dowel pin pair that is closest to onehalf
    of the indicator reading. (i.e., if reading is .016”, 1/2R=.008” use .007” dowels.
    If reading is .024”, 1/2R=.012” use .014” dowels).
    5. Remove stock dowel pins by driving from back side or pulling with gripper
    6. Clean engine block dowel holes and coat lightly with lubricant.
    7. Lubricate dowel pins and install in block. The slot in the dowel pins indicates the
    direction of maximum offset. They should be installed parallel to one another,
    and in pairs (both .007” or both .014” and .021”).
    8. Install and tighten bellhousing securely. Remount the dial indicator and recheck
    the register bore runout (Repeat step 3).
    9. To make small corrections or adjustments to the alignment, you will need to
    remove the bellhousing and drive the offset dowels out of the block. Reposition
    the dowels using the slot as a reference point and re-install. Re-check register
    bore run-out. Repeat this procedure until the register bore is within limits

    clutch fork stud:
    [​IMG] 62-67 Nova Clutch Adapter Bracket.aspx
    You want 4.75 inches from the flange to the top of the ball stud thats if you have not had any work done to your flywheel or pressure plate
    the 4.75" is from the flange of the bellhouseing to the top of the ball stud.
    lay a straight edge across the flange of the bellhousing and measure down to the ball stud ... cedure.pdf ... c-468.html ... 15-09A.pdf ... index.html ... nment.html ... ewall.html




    980300 UNIVERSAL TRANSMISSION BLANKET SFI APPROVED $94.43 ( ) (kevlar scatter shield, the same thing bullet proof vests are made of)

    [​IMG] ... -page.html ... 5&x=27&y=9

    Lakewood bellhousing is about $329. This one from Speedway is $249.,36_Explosion-Proof-Chevy-Bellhousing-with-Plate.html#feedback
    keep in mind you want a SFI BILLET flywheel and a BLOW-PROOF BELL HOUSING

    "Lakewood Bellhousings have been tested and meet or exceed S.F.I. Spec. 6.1, when used with approved block plate. Lakewood Bellhousings are designed to contain a clutch or flywheel explosion, bellhousings include the block plate and are marked with an S.F.I. Spec. 6.1 serial number " and have a certification label that some tracks require

    I think thats a CHINESE COPY, I don,t see it advertised as MEETING the S.F.I. Spec 6.1 which MIGHT mean its not up to the strength, thickness or temper and heat treatment or same level of dimensional tollerance control, its obviously better than the stock aluminum but it might not be nearly as strong as the certified bell housing

    theres DOZENS of differant models , SIZES ETC. but LAKEWOODS about the best known brand and JEGS AND SUMMIT HAVE THEM

    most of us old timers have seen what happends to a car when a flywheel/clutch blows and Ive seen a chunk of flywheel or clutch take the windshield and dash right out of a 283/57 chevy so if you plan on walking around in your old age without prosthesis legs use a lakewood houseing, youll find that the cost is very small compared to new legs. btw running your fuel lines where the frame protects them, haveing the electric fuel pump with a minimal oil pressure cut on pressure switch and carrying a 10lb co2 extinguisher is also a good idea,at least that way if the engine/flywheel blows you don,t have gas continuing to pump out everywhare from cut fuel lines.look here,


    Grumpy, funny you should mention that. 20 years ago a friends brother had th ebody and paint done on his 57 (BRIGHT ORANGE) and had a hot 283 in the car with a Muncie.

    He was out on the highway running it hard and the flywheel let go (stock piece, I'd bet) and it took out the windshield, cowl, firewall, crushed the frame on each side, cut the headers as if they were paper, and left a nice hole in the pavement. Yep. Stock bellhousing.

    I have the Lakewood in my Z and it was hardly a problem fitting it. I did cut the flange off of about 6" of the bottom portion, parallel with the ground, for ground clearance (I know that killed the SFI rating, but it's still alot safer than an AL bellhousing) and had to just slightly bump the tunnel in one area on the passenger side to make some clearance.

    [​IMG] ... 7/10002/-1
    you TH350 and TH400 guys need this also


    keep in mind a SFI SCATTER SHIELD to protect your feet is almost mandatory, on a high performance engine combo
    watch THESE (found on youtube) ... r_embedded


    383RAM posted this bit of info
    "Most factory stuff is usually close enough for factory parts. When you start upgrading power and clutches, it would be foolish not to check it. My one old Ansen steel bellhousing was .062 out of spec. I used the Lakwood extra long dowel pins with weld on sleeves to straighten it out. It requires all the mounting holes to be hoged out or enlongated. Then you cemter the housing and tack weld the sleeves to the bellhousing.

    You have to remember, the steel housings are stamped rather than having a casting machined like the stock aluminum bellhousing. The stampings by nature are going to be off a little more. Just like a stamped quarter panel, no two are exacrtly alike.

    BTW, some of the better known converter companies really prefer you dial in your automatic trans case too. I have done a couple of them, but that requires the trans to be disassembled to dial in off the front pump flange. "
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 12, 2017
  2. grumpyvette

    grumpyvette Administrator Staff Member

    Re: bellhousings
    use of a block plate and a blow proof bell housing ,helps prevent your feet from being cut off if the clutch or flywheel explodes, and
    can frequently prevent major damage to an expensive engine block,
    and avoid thousands of dollars in machine work cost on a replacement block.
    use of SFI certified clutch components significantly reduces the chances of parts failure.

    SFI chevy flywheels

    its a great idea to use the proper GRADE #8 fasteners as they are significantly stronger than the average grade 5 hardware store bolts



    watch this (found on youtube) ... r_embedded

    obviously the flywheel and clutch must fit inside the bell housing and since chevy has produced a 153 tooth and larger 168 tooth flywheel the potential for the smaller size bell housing designed for the 153 tooth size bell housing to not allow the use of the larger 168 tooth flywheel exists so measure carefully and check and verify parts before ordering.

    how to properly align your bell housing
    you might be astounded at what carefully reading thru links and sub links will do for your skill level, and the resulting engine and drive line durability issues,, rather than just winging it without facts, yes its easier to just bolt things together and drive away,but having an understanding of how the process is done correctly,and why you should take the effort helps reduce problems and parts breakage issues. youll need a dial indicator and adjustable dowels that allow you to properly move and locate the drive spline on the trans with the crank center-line, failure to take the time and effort to get things properly aligned tends to result in vibrations,rapid parts wear and parts failures



    When you go to install the muncie transmission, you'll obviously want the clutch disc lined up correctly with the clutch alignment tool, and the pressure plate bolted on the flywheel, then remove the alignment tool after the bell housings ready to properly install, ID start with a clutch disc alignment tool being removed once the then Id get the bell housing lined up, ID install two 3" long studs, if you can,t find studs buy studs buy 3" bolts and cut the heads off and round off the tips to allow easy use

    that have the same thread as the muncie trans retention bolts in the bottom two bell housing bolt holes, so you could get the majority of the weight off the trans front and get the spline close to lining up, use the two top bolts to clamp in to the bell housing before removing the studs and replacing them with bolts ... umber=5646 ... index.html ... number=623 ... toview=sku ... toview=sku ... toview=sku

    don,t forget to install a pilot bearing in the rear of the crank too support the front of the transmission splined input shaft, btw you remove the old one "IF" it needs to be replaced by packing the area behind and inside it with grease and hydraulically lifting it out by use of a wood dowel driven into its center area with a mallet, the displaced grease forces the bearing up and out

    [grumpy?]how do get the grease behind the bearing? [/quote]
    thru the center hole the tip of the splined trans shaft rides in

    careful measurement and centering the input shaft is critical
    in some cases an adapter ring is required to match a different transmission to a bell housing

    Ive removed near countless transmissions, from cars you don,t need a full lift in your shop,\
    Ive done clutch and trans swaps and converter swaps with 4 12 ton jack stands for decades
    with these tools.

    youll need a quality high lift low profile floor jack thats no more than 3.5" tall flat on the floor and lifts to 20" minimum shop around theres a huge variation in floor jack quality

    a cheap but functional tranny jack and 4 12 ton jack stands


    you could easily build 4 of these wood jack stand replacements for under $70, for all materials, simply have home depot cut 12 standard 2"x 4" boards into 15.5" lengths and a sheet of 1/2" marine plywood into 15.5 x 15.5 inch squares and obviously buy wood glue and lots of 3" deck screws

    and a decent floor jack

    to muscle it up into place while getting the bolts lined up




    even better yet
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 1, 2017
  3. grumpyvette

    grumpyvette Administrator Staff Member

    Chevrolet Passenger Car Clutch Housings (Bell housings)
    265-350 cid V-8
    GM Part No. Identification No. Year Model
    3755343 3733365 55-57Pass. (8-cyl)
    3785643 3779552 60-61Pass. (8-cyl exc. Sp H/Per)
    62Pass. (383. 327 exc. H/Per
    3785644(aluminum) 3779553 62Pass. w/H/Per (327)
    3788419 3788421 63Pass.

    3858403 3840383 64-67Pass. (283. 327 usually w/10.4" exc. HD Clutch)

    65-67Chevelle (283 exc. H D Clutch
    67-69 All (302)
    68Pass. (307),
    Chevy (307),
    Chevelle (307 exc. H D clutch)
    70-73 All (307)
    64-69Pass. w/reg. fuel
    65-68Chevelle (327 exc. H D Clutch)
    67-68Camaro (327)
    69Chevy, Chevelle, Camaro w/reg. fuel (327)
    69Pass. (350 w/ reg. fuel exc. H D clutch)
    69 Chevy, Chevelle, Camaro, w/reg. fuel (350)

    3849307 3849309 64-67Chevy (283, 327)
    3899621 (usually w/11" clutch)

    66-67 All (283) w/H D clutch
    67-70All (350 exc. Sp/ Per
    68 All (307) w/H D clutch
    70 All Sp. H/Per (350)
    71-75All (350)

    The ID Numbers are stamped on the inside of the housing.

    Chevrolet Passenger Car Starting Motors
    265-350 cid V-8, Manual Transmission

    GM Part No. Identification No. Year Model

    n/a stamped 1107627-1107645 55-56 All Pass. (265)

    n/a stamped 11076 60-64-964-889-892 57-61 Pass. (265-283)

    1108361 stamped 1107320-1108361 63-64Pass. (327)
    (cyl. block mounting) 65-67 Pass. Chevy, Chevelle (327)
    67Camaro (exc. 350)
    68Pass. (327 exc. H D clutch)
    68Chevy, Chevelle (327)
    69Chevy (350)
    69Chevy, Chevelle, Camaro
    (4-bbl w/reg. fuel 350)
    1108366 stamped 1108365-66-67-8512 62-64Chevy, Chevelle
    (cyl. block mounting) 63-64Pass. (283)
    65-67Chevy, Chevelle, Camaro (exc. 327)
    65-67Pass. (283 exc. H D clutch)
    68-69Pass. (307, 327 exc H D clutch)
    68Chevelle (exc. H D clutch)
    68-69Camaro (exc. 350)
    70-73All (307)

    1108788 70-75Nova, Chevelle, Camaro (8-cyl.)
    The Starter ID Numbers are stamped on the side of the gear housing.

    Small Block Chevrolet V-8
    Clutch Housing-Flywheel- Starter Housing
    Clutch Housing Flywheel Starter numbers

    265/283cid (1955-62)
    3755343 3739423 1107627-45
    3785643 3998281 1107660-64

    283cid (1963-67)
    3788419 3791022 1108366
    3858403 3973452 1108366
    3849307 3973452 1108366

    302cid (1967-69)
    3858403 3973452 1108361

    307cid (1968-73)
    3858403 3973452 1108366

    327cid (1962-69)
    3785643 3739423 1108366
    3785644 3739423 1108366
    3788419 3791022 1108361
    3848403 3973452 1108361
    3849307 3973452 1108361

    3958403 3998281 1108361
    3899621 3998281 1108788

    Chevrolet Passenger Car flywheels
    265-350cid V-8, Manual Transmission

    GM Part No. Identification No. Year Model

    3739423 w/10" coil & diaphragm spring clutch
    55 8-cyl exc. H D clutch 4-bbl

    (11 5/8" bolt circle) cast 3829004
    56Pass. w/2-bbl (exc. H D clutch)
    56 Pass. w/4 bbl.
    56-58Pass. (283 exc. H D clutch dual 4-bbl F. I
    59-61Pass. (283 exc. o/d)
    62Pass. (8-cyl)

    3998281w/11" coil spring clutch (12 5/8" bolt
    circle) solid type
    55-56Pass. w/CAC (8 cyl)
    55-56Pass. w/4-bbl
    57Pass. (exc. 4-bbl, dual 4-bbl)
    58Pass. w/H D clutch (283 exc. 4-bbl, F.I. o/d)
    58-61Pass. w/o/d (283)
    66-68Pass. w/H D clutch (327)
    67-69Chevelle w/H D clutch (327)
    67Chevelle w/H D clutch (283)
    67-69Camaro, Chevy (350)
    69Pass. (350)
    70All w/4-bbl (350)
    70-74All w/Sp H Per. (350)

    3791022 solid type (cast 3791021)
    63-64Pass. (283, 327 exc. H D clutch)

    3973452 solid type, as above
    64-67 All (283 exc. H D clutch)
    66-67Pass. w/H D clutch (283)
    64-68All (327 exc. H D clutch)
    67-69All (302)
    69 Pass. w/reg. fuel (327, 350)

    70-72All w/2-bbl. (350)
    71Chevelle w/4-bbl (350 exc. Monte Carlo)
    73-74All (350 exc. Sp H/Per.)
    75Nova, Camaro (350)
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 1, 2017
  4. grumpyvette

    grumpyvette Administrator Staff Member

    "HEY grumpy? I have a bad crank pilot bearing, I Was using a slide hammer on it, but its so far gone, that All the needles and the cage are gone and I have the inner edge all bent over so the slide hammer isn't working very well. Was hitting it pretty good with the slide hammer but no luck.
    Any tips on an easy way to get the remnants of this bearing out? Was thinking about trying to split it with a chisel but don't want to score the bore of the crankshaft".
    IF you need to remove the old pilot bearing, a ounce of thick bearing grease
    and an aluminum or wood dowel and a couple hard whacks with a ball peen hammer hydraulically removes the bearing, just wrap electrical tape on the dowel to reduce clearance, if its required to get a decent seal.


    when they get really deformed you can thread in a bottom tap of the correct size that effectively acts like a thread jack and pulls the deformed bearing in many cases, use of FREEZE SPRAY directly on the bearing while slightly heating the crank flange with a propane torch also tends to make removal easier
    find the correct thread size tap to fit snugly inside the well worn pilot bearing, and thread the tap into the bearing until its tip bears on the recessed crank hub
    heat the crank flange briefly with propane torch
    spray the pilot bearing for a minimum of 5-6 seconds with
    [​IMG] ... B001VXU474
    then thread the pilot bearing out, using the bottoming tap as a thread jack that has a firm grip on the worn bearings interior surface as it bears against the bottom of the crank recess as the temp change between the two components, the pilot bearing diameters been reduced in diameter slightly by the temp change, and heating the crank flange has been slightly expanded by the propane torch.


    BTW the flat steel "TAN" in this picture, hard plate that is about 1/8" thick, that mounts between the flywheel and bell housing that helps protect the block from being damaged if the clutch or flywheel comes apart or loose at 6000 rpm

    more pictures showing the results of a STOCK STYLE , NON SFI RATED flywheel coming apart , luckily this guy had the foresight to use a blow proof bell housing so he only lost an engine not his feet, but even with the blow proof bell housing look at the damage that resulted
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 29, 2017
  5. bytor

    bytor Well-Known Member

    May be a silly question but, will the stock bellhousing inspection plate fit an aftermarket bellhousing like a Lakewood 15000?

    Attached Files:

  6. grumpyvette

    grumpyvette Administrator Staff Member



    theres NO CHANCE simply because , a properly installed blow proof housings come with block saver plates, that cover that area, the block saver plate forms the front facing support wall containing the clutch and protecting the block, and strengthening the bell housing during and clutch or flywheel failure, and helps contain potential shrapnel


    keep in mind any serious performance application is best served with SFI certified billet flywheel,
    clutch assembly and a blow proof bell housing
    Last edited by a moderator: May 1, 2017
  7. mathd

    mathd solid fixture here in the forum

    My lakewood 15000 came with the block saver plate in the box.
  8. bytor

    bytor Well-Known Member

    So, kind of going back and forth with the whole SFI approved bellhousing vs. stock thing. I will be running a Ram billet SFI approved flywheel and Ram Powergrip clutch that supposedly “meets SFI specifications”. So is a SFI bellhousing really necessary for a car that will never run slicks and see only a few runs down the quarter mile?
  9. grumpyvette

    grumpyvette Administrator Staff Member

    yes IM all too aware most of us are operating on very limited funds , Its taken me 7 years so far to accumulate less than 2/3rds of the parts I need for my own planed engine swap, but the bottom line is you can slap together cheap parts or you can build something correctly, with good parts the difference once your done is huge, and in many cases the result of cheap parts is a dangerous car or one thats not nearly as fast, or safe as it could be THOSE ARE YOUR FEET, HAVING AN SFI CERTIFIED FLYWHEEL IS ONLY PART OF THE POTENTIAL PROBLEM,S CURE, BUT ITS HARDLY FOOL PROOF, THE PRESSURE PLATES IS JUST AS LIKELY TO EXPLODE, AS THE CLUTCH DISC OR PRESSURE PLATE OR FLYWHEEL AND DOES IT REALLY MATER THE ORIGINAL PART THAT EXPLODES AND CUTS YOUR FEET OFF......IF YOU VALUE YOUR FEET THE SFI FLYWHEEL, CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE AND BELL HOUSING WITH BLOCK PLATE ARE A GOOD IDEA
  10. bytor

    bytor Well-Known Member

    From a budget prospective I had planned on using one from the beginning. Being a new to this, I just started second guessing myself and wondering if I was over doing it. Its cheap insurance and I don’t intend to drive the car conservatively either so decision made, SFI bellhousing it is.

    'Looking forward to a few of those 60mph rolling burnouts.' As always, thanks for the guidance and prospective.
  11. bytor

    bytor Well-Known Member

    Sharing some additional bellhousing install and alignment instructions I stumbled across.

    Attached Files:

  12. Indycars

    Indycars Administrator Staff Member

    Everything is this thread is for a manual trans, but what about an
    automatic? How important is the alignment for an automatic and
    how would the check be performed?

  13. grumpyvette

    grumpyvette Administrator Staff Member

  14. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey Staff Member

    4.... 12 ton rated jack stands, carefully located on the frame help provide a secure place to work under the car

    if you can,t afford to buy 4-6 of the 12 ton rated jack stands or a lift building car supports from 15" sections of 2" x 4" scrap is a decent option, but a 15" square 1/2" plywood section inserted and wood glued and screwed, into the support stack, every few layers adds considerable structural rigidity
    at times having an inspection tools handy when you can't get a good look at a problem any other way

    if your going to buy a used short block or a bare block from an un-known private source or most salvage yards, obviously you'll need to do BOTH a close inspection, WITH some measuring tools
    AND get some idea of the blocks physical condition
    this is also a good inspection tool ... pv618.aspx
    GOOGLE PV-618 and PV-636

    High resolution lens provides a clear image of objects as close as 3/4 inch and over one foot away while providing a wide 40 degree field of view.
    Powerful lamp illuminates dark crevices on-demand with the push of a button conveniently located on the handle.
    Ergonomically designed handle is comfortable to hold and allows one-handed focusing and light activation.
    Rugged and water resistant, ProVision is made of high impact ABS and flexible cable sheathing. (Note: Shaft is water resistant, not the handle.)
    PV-618 and PV-636 models have .23” diameter, flexible, non-obedient cable. Durable carrying case included.
    Accessories available to optimize ProVision for specialized applications.
    Made in the USA

    Cable Length: 18" (457.2mm)
    Cable Diameter: .23"
    Handle Length: 6" (152.4mm)
    Handle Width: 1.43" (36.2mm)Overall Length: 24" (609.6mm)
    Weight of Scope w/ Carrying Case: 1 lb. 5.7 oz (615 g)
    Field of View: 40°
    Optimal Viewing Distance: Min. .8" (20mm); Max. is dependent upon ambient lighting conditions.
    Lamp Volts: 2.7 volts (Halogen)
    Power Source: 2 AA batteries (not included)
    Pressure Necessary to Operate Lamp: 2.9 avg. p/psi; 3.2 max. p/psi

    heres a cheaper version that works with a lap top computer

    GCA 5.5mm Diameter USB Waterproof 6 Led Endoscope Borescope Inspection Wire Camera (5m)

    Price: $18.50 & FREE Shipping on orders over $49. Details

      • Waterproof wire endoscope
      • Diameter:5.5mm head, 5 meters long flexible tube
      • High resolution 1.3MP with 1/12" VGA CMO
      • 6 LED lighting adjustable, can be inspected the hard-to-see areas.
      • Waterproof : IP67, 60°Viewable Angle. Can take photo & video and save in your computer
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2018

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