bits of rather useful info, yeah its going to take awhile but theres good tips

Grumpy · Apr 9, 2019

if theres one subject that won,t die, its the constant need for guys to discuss and ask questions,
concerning how to build a lower cost SBC engine.
Ill save you a a great deal of time and effort ,
the KEYS to performance are, AND ROUGHLY IN THIS ORDER
GOOD HEAD FLOW
HIGHER COMPRESSION
CAM TIMING
MATCHING THE DRIVE TRAIN GEARING TO THE POWER BAND
LOW RESTRICTION EXHAUST
HEADERS WITH EXCEPTIONAL CYLINDER SCAVENGING
but all component selections will effect the eventually results
all selections enhance or restrict other parts and power production.
your eventually going to see articles promoting the idea that too large a intake port volume hurts torque,
in most cases the person has mis-matched parts, higher flow and larger ports,
when correctly matched to the correct cam timing, higher compression, and lower restriction exhaust,
and correctly matched drive train gearing, and correct converter stall speeds,
almost universally increases power in the use able performance power band.
If you match larger high flow ports to any intake that flows less than the heads,
youve significantly reduced power potential
if you have a cam that will not provide the lift and duration to maximize head flow in the intended rpm band,
youve significantly reduced power potential
think through the selection of the engine block and rotating assembly, those parts are critical to durability
failure in selecting components that easily exceed the stress the parts will be subjected too, is always a mistake
youve significantly reduced power potential
match the valve train components, you select too the intended rpm and head flow and cam timing,failure to maintain control over the valve train at peak rpms is always a quick route to expensive problems.
youve significantly reduced power potential
if the cars drive train gearing or converter stall speed or transmission shift points, are not matched to the engines power band,
youve significantly reduced power potential
if the exhaust and headers are not designed to maximize cylinder scavenging in the entire intended power band,
youve significantly reduced power potential
take the time to think through the engines lubrication and cooling requirements
failure to maintain a significant flow of un-interrupted pressurized oil flowing too the moving components , or failure to cool the oil or coolant,
is always a very expensive route to major component failures,
youve significantly reduced power potential
if your installing your small displacement engine in a very heavy car or the transmission shifts well below the max usable, and designed power peak,
youve significantly reduced power potential
think about your ignition, components, and providing accurate ignition timing, the stock ignition was never designed to provide the spark energy or amps required for true performance applications, especially at higher rpms and cylinder pressure levels.
youve significantly reduced power potential
time spent in careful research well before you start a project,
can save you thousands of dollars and months of problems.

never skip reading sub-links it will eventually come back to bite you financially
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tbucket-engine-project-dart-shp.3814/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-selecting-budget-383-heads.14620/#post-78229

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...gine-to-match-the-cam-specs.11764/#post-73829

bearings and oil flow

Bearings and oil flow, some of the most important processes in engine assembly are related to getting the bearing clearances and oil flow and pressure rates set up to provide the correct oil flow rates and pressure for cooling and preventing direct surface to surface contact on the rotating...

garage.grumpysperformance.com

can you build your custom engine as cheaply as you can have a crate engine built for you?

this is a question I have been asked so many times I can't even remember how often I've heard it asked and of course as with most things, the answer is IT DEPENDS ON... :facepalm: a great many factors , (1) like do you have a decent clean, well lighted and adequate place to work? (2)do you...

garage.grumpysperformance.com

Grumpy · Apr 9, 2019

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-vortec-heads-and-other-heads.401/#post-34996

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ding-sbc-crate-engine-heads.13041/#post-69328

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...r-piston-dome-or-port-volume.2077/#post-61068

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/vortec-related-info.731/

While reading several books on building performance engines I found one recurring message – stick with the stock big block oil pump! Apparently these pumps have a solid reputation for being bulletproof. Here’s what the stock oil pump looked like after a thorough cleaning.

Oftentimes people replace the stock oil pump with a high flow or high pressure aftermarket pump as a matter of course when completing an engine build. However, much of my research seriously questioned this practice and made a compelling case in the process. First, for street and street performance use the stock oil pump is perfectly capable of pushing more than enough of oil (provided the correct main bearings are used and that bearing clearances are not ridiculously large). Secondly, high pressure and high volume pumps certainly do push a lot of oil, but much of that oil is simply forced out of the pressure release valve and never makes it through the engine. Also, don’t forget that pushing all that extra oil takes more work and more horsepower. Lastly, although a high volume pump could easily have been provided by GM engineers, they didn’t feel it was necessary – even on the high performance L-88 and ZL-1 models. With that in mind I started checking my stock pump to see how it looked, overall it was in very good condition. Below is a photo of the pump with the cover removed.

Disassembly of the pump is quite simple, the parts are all slip fit so they’re easily removed. Prior to removing the drive and idler gears I marked their relative position so that they could be reinstalled in the same orientation.

Despite the bullet-proof reputation of the stock big block oil pump several of my references recommended a few minor modifications when using them in a performance application. After giving this some consideration I opted to go ahead and make the modifications as they were explained and outlined in the book “How to Hotrod Big-Block Chevys”. The book is a good reference, although it’s a bit dated, but it provides some good info nonetheless. Considering used copies can be had for less than $10 it’s certainly a worthwhile investment.

First on the list of modifications was to lightly chamfer the edges of the gear teeth with a file.

Next, and perhaps the scariest modification, was pressure balancing the oil pump. By creating small grooves in the pump housing the hydrostatic forces on the idler and drive gears can be more evenly distributed. This reduces the amount of pulsating forces that are transmitted up the oil pump drive shaft and ultimately into the distributor. Although not a major problem, this pulsating has been known to contribute to spark scatter (changes in timing) at high RPM. The pressure balancing also helps prevent cavitation and allows the pump to operate more efficiently and on less horsepower. GM engineers provided some of these pressure balancing grooves on their high performance pumps (used on L-88 Corvettes), but these modifications go a step further. Having said that, below I’ve laid out the locations of the pressure balancing grooves on the pump housing.

To make the grooves I used a Dremel tool with a bit intended for chain saw blade sharpening. The size of the bit (5/32″ diameter) was just about the perfect size and it worked very well.

After a few hours of careful work the grooves were complete. Below is a picture of the modified housing. Note that care needs to be taken to assure the grooves in the cover (#1 & #2) need to line up with the vertical grooves on the pump housing (#1 & #2). The other two red arrows are meant to point out vertical grooves in the pump housing (a bit hard to see in the photo).

Lastly, and probably most importantly, the proper end clearance between the gears and pump housing cover needs to be established. Excessive clearance results in poor priming ability and inefficient pump operation. Ideally end clearance should be about 0.0025 inches. If excessive clearance is found the housing can be sanded down by using a piece of fine to medium grit sandpaper placed on a flat, hard surface. Be sure to apply even pressure and rotate the pump often during this process to ensure material is removed evenly. Conversely, if the clearance is too small the gear height can be reduced by using the same sanding procedure above.

After establishing the proper clearance and a very, very thorough cleaning I reinstalled the pump cover and screws using Loctite on the screw threads. That’s all for this update!

example of (engine building" vs parts assembly)

Id bet 80% or more of the people assembling parts have never checked most component clearances ,
except in most cases for ring end gap and bearing to crank journal, as thats almost mandatory.
things like,
piston to the cylinder head (quench)
piston to valve,
rocker slot to rocker stud,
connecting rod to cam lobe,
connecting rod to block skirt,
piston skirt to crank counterweight,
cam button to the timing cover,
spring bind height,
rod side clearance,
thrust bearing clearance,
ring end gap and piston slot back clearance on rings.
piston to bore clearance.
pushrod to the cylinder head, or guide plate,
crank journal taper and concentricity and surface smoothness
cylinder head surface and not being warped
cleaning out all the threaded holes with a tap.
sonic testing bore walls
having the block , crank and heads checked for micro-cracks
verifying the oil pump drive shaft has about .050 clearance with the distributor fully seated,
replace and shim distributor gear with new cam installation
verify oil pump relief spring function, test to ensure it opens at no higher than 70 psi
checking for crank straitness.
verify crank journal to counter weight junction has consistent radias
verify head gasket opening is at least .030 larger than bore diameter all the way around bore circumference
verifying main cap concentricity and shoulder depth.
verify pushrod length and valve train geometry.
timing chain slack, and/or lack of clearance to the timing cover.
verify theres no crud inside push rods or block oil passages.

verify the block oil passages and bearing oil holes align properly (correct and bevel as required)

MEASURE CAREFULLY

notice how the rod bolts come close to the cam bearings as the pistons reach top dead canter in the bores

Maniacmechanic1 · Apr 9, 2019

The Block Grumpy.
010 and 400 blocks good cores getting harder to find.

883 and Vortech block 4-bolt be Ok.
Competition level today DART SHP 650HP rating low.
Need The Dart Little M only modern race level worthy then.

Grumpy · Sep 25, 2023

Compression Calculator

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Spicer Engine Displacement Calculator

This Engine Displacement Calculator provides calculations for engine displacement based on either the metric or US standard system. The Spicer Engine Displacement Calculator makes it easy!

https://robrobinette.com/et.htm

http://www.wallaceracing.com/et-hp-mph.php

http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm

http://hpwizard.com/engine-horsepower-calculator.html

http://www.csgnetwork.com/automotiveconverters.html

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/

http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/AutomotiveCalculators.html

http://www.bgsoflex.com/auto.html

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/index.html

http://www.tciauto.com/tc/racing-calculators/

http://www.holyrollerz.org/automotive-calculators

https://autocalc.onlinedyno.com/

http://www.prosystemsracing.com/calculate.html

http://hotrodworks.net/hotrodmath/quarter.html

http://www.assassinracing.com/tech/drag_calc.html

http://www.dragtimes.com/gear-ratio-calculator-mph-speed.php

http://www.bgsoflex.com/bestheader.html

http://www.calculatoredge.com/new/horsepower.htm

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...atios-and-when-to-shift-calcs.555/#post-54229

of course having reference books helps define the questions,
and understanding what info valid

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-to-take-awhile-but-theres-good-tips.15295/

https://www.cartechbooks.com/featuredlinks/calculators/

bits of rather useful info, yeah its going to take awhile but theres good tips

Grumpy

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.

bearings and oil flow

can you build your custom engine as cheaply as you can have a crate engine built for you?

Grumpy

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.

Maniacmechanic1

solid fixture here in the forum

Grumpy

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.

Compression Calculator

Spicer Engine Displacement Calculator

bits of rather useful info, yeah its going to take awhile but theres good tips

Grumpy

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.

bearings and oil flow

can you build your custom engine as cheaply as you can have a crate engine built for you?

Grumpy

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.

Maniacmechanic1

solid fixture here in the forum

Grumpy

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.

Compression Calculator​

Spicer Engine Displacement Calculator​

Compression Calculator

Spicer Engine Displacement Calculator