build me a 383, please

sako · Apr 9, 2010

Its that time. I have to rebuild my engine. A couple of months ago, driving home from work my engine started making a ratelling noise. I pulled over and had it towed home. That morning i noticed the oil pressure was bouncing all over the place, mostly on the low side. After taking the engine apart, i know that had a lot to do with the moter making crazy noises. The main bearings and rod bearings are shot.
After looking at the part in the engine (mostly GM cast) the person who built this engine was on a budget as well.
Im on a crazy budget and would like to use what i can from what i have, specially the 4 speed m21, supercharger, carb, distributer and all the little things which are replaceable after the car is on the road.
I want the car to be street friendly with 450-500 hp. it will see little track time.
Here is what i have:
1978 4 bolt 350 block, 2 piece main seal. Bored 4.030. cast #v0408tzw c8z175294.
cam: 136 gm.......? cant find any info on this.
Crank: GM 3932442........info i got shows its from a 350. supposed to be a 383 or 400 crank right?
Pistons: has #3 on it with .030 stamped on top.
Rods: I beam. looks cast. 5.75 or 6?
Pushrods: 4012 stamped on it...........?
Heads: Heads are trash. 462624 76-87 1.94/1.50 & 2.02/1.60 valves
HP - Not listed
76 CC Chambers ---http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=162898
Carb: holley 750 supercharger carb with manual choke.
Supercharger: 142 waiend roots style with Waiend intake.
Tranny: 4 speed M21
Rear end: 12 bolt 3.73 gears.
I will post some pics soon.
Can you guys help me out and rebuild a nice supercharged engine(9 to 1 or lower compression) thats nice on the street but can haul a$$.
What stroker kit (forged) would be strong enough for a blown engine but not brake the bank. I do not want to go over 3K.
Keep in mind, the little blower only pulls about 5-6 boost.

grumpyvette · Apr 9, 2010

most of us are on very tight budgets so thats not all that unique, of a limitation

your engine numbers seem to point to a stock 350 short block with less than ideal heads as you suspected, so the first step is a close, detailed visual inspection of the block, looking for cracks, if you don,t have the tools IS strongly suggest having a TRUSTED local machine shop CLEAN OUT THE OIL PASSAGES and REPLACE the CAM BEARINGS & FREEZE PLUGS and clean and inspect the block and if it needs a line hone or deck job or the bores honed thats advisable

3932442..267,305,350..cast...medium journal...3.48" stroke

next read thru these threads and related sub linked info, yes it will take some effort and time, I,d doubt your going to complete reading it in less than a weeks time, but it will most likely be the best and most cost effective route you can take to building that engine, but it will also give you a great deal of info youll want related to your quest of building a decent 383 that will be durable at the 500hp level

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=1249

viewtopic.php?f=69&t=519

http://www.sporttruck.com/howto/40619/index.html

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=181

http://www.skipwhiteperformance.com/det ... 3831P-1230

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=38

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=615

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=428&p=4987&hilit=4032#p4987

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=942&p=1658&hilit=4032#p1658

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=2834

viewtopic.php?f=69&t=2145

viewtopic.php?f=87&t=1162

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=204

viewtopic.php?f=86&t=1330

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/1206phr-383ci-small-block-chevy/

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/76178-chevrolet-ht-383-engine/

http://www.enginelabs.com/news/dyno-video-qmp-builds-500-horse-383-stroker/

http://www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-stories/engine/building-the-little-383-small-block-that-could/

http://royalpurpleconsumer.com/wp-c...-block-in-six-easy-steps-hot-rod-magazine.pdf

http://bracketmasters.com/small_block_s ... 383_cu.htm

viewtopic.php?f=86&t=1922

grumpyvette · Apr 10, 2010

now if I was going to build that engine, your asking about and assuming the blocks in good condition, ID first ask the local machine shop to check and clean the block, and ID ask if the crank could be polished, out to a standard a couple thousands undersized, and Id at least think about reusing the crank with new rods and pistons and much better heads, as one option,simply because cranks rarely, fail, its rods and pistons that are more likely to fail and on your rather limited budget and while using a mild supercharger saving money for components that boost hp and reliability is something you'll want to do . but obviously a forged rotating assembly and better heads like linked below will produce a good deal more hp & durability, but because you'll need new rods pistons, bearing and rings plus a balance job the swap to a 383 rotating assembly really won,t cost that much more, and a forged crank and rods with 7/16" arp rod bolts easily DOUBLES the stock component strength, and the better heads and cam combo on that 383 could easily boost your finished engine combos previous performance levels a great deal higher
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/383-build-for-a-friend.14273/
rotating assembly
http://www.adperformance.com/index.php? ... cts_id=675

heads
http://www.jegs.com/i/Brodix/158/1021001/10002/-1

CAM
E110048K
specs>> 300Â°/310Â° 234Â°/244Â° .488"/.510" 112Â° $111.72
http://www.pbm-erson.com/store.php?catId=327

don,t forget a good high capacity oil pan, designed to fit your car and decent headers as both will be critical to producing decent hp

http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/in ... 1&parent=0

sako · Apr 21, 2010

grumpyvette said:
now if I was going to build that engine, your asking about and assuming the blocks in good condition, ID first ask the local machine shop to check and clean the block, and ID ask if the crank could be polished, out to a standard a couple thousands undersized, and Id at least think about reusing the crank with new rods and pistons and much better heads, as one option,simply because cranks rarely, fail, its rods and pistons that are more likely to fail and on your rather limited budget and while using a mild supercharger saving money for components that boost hp and reliability is something you'll want to do . but obviously a forged rotating assembly and better heads like linked below will produce a good deal more hp & durability, but because you'll need new rods pistons, bearing and rings plus a balance job the swap to a 383 rotating assembly really won,t cost that much more, and a forged crank and rods with 7/16" arp rod bolts easily DOUBLES the stock component strength, and the better heads and cam combo on that 383 could easily boost your finished engine combos previous performance levels a great deal higher

rotating assembly
http://www.adperformance.com/index.php? ... cts_id=675

heads

Grumpy,
I noticed the rotating assembly is about $400 cheeper at adperformance.com. Have you shopped on the site before and are they reputable and safe?
http://www.jegs.com/i/Brodix/158/1021001/10002/-1

CAM
E110048K
specs>> 300Â°/310Â° 234Â°/244Â° .488"/.510" 112Â° $111.72
http://www.pbm-erson.com/store.php?catId=327

don,t forget a good high capacity oil pan, designed to fit your car and decent headers as both will be critical to producing decent hp

http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/in ... 1&parent=0

sako · Apr 21, 2010

grumpyvette said:
now if I was going to build that engine, your asking about and assuming the blocks in good condition, ID first ask the local machine shop to check and clean the block, and ID ask if the crank could be polished, out to a standard a couple thousands undersized, and Id at least think about reusing the crank with new rods and pistons and much better heads, as one option,simply because cranks rarely, fail, its rods and pistons that are more likely to fail and on your rather limited budget and while using a mild supercharger saving money for components that boost hp and reliability is something you'll want to do . but obviously a forged rotating assembly and better heads like linked below will produce a good deal more hp & durability, but because you'll need new rods pistons, bearing and rings plus a balance job the swap to a 383 rotating assembly really won,t cost that much more, and a forged crank and rods with 7/16" arp rod bolts easily DOUBLES the stock component strength, and the better heads and cam combo on that 383 could easily boost your finished engine combos previous performance levels a great deal higher

rotating assembly
http://www.adperformance.com/index.php? ... cts_id=675

heads
http://www.jegs.com/i/Brodix/158/1021001/10002/-1

CAM
E110048K
specs>> 300Â°/310Â° 234Â°/244Â° .488"/.510" 112Â° $111.72
http://www.pbm-erson.com/store.php?catId=327

don,t forget a good high capacity oil pan, designed to fit your car and decent headers as both will be critical to producing decent hp

http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/in ... 1&parent=0

Grumpy,
I noticed the rotating assembly is about $400 cheeper at adperformance.com. Have you shopped on the site before and are they reputable and safe?

grumpyvette · Apr 21, 2010

Ive purchased rotating assembly's from them in the past, and the kit contents were fine, but Ive never ordered the really cheap combos, so I can,t comment on their less expensive kits, obviously theres a difference in quality as the price changes so you'll want to ask questions about the kits contents, materials,balance work done, and components machine work.

every component you select is a compromise, you need, to balance what you can afford with the stress levels you intend to operate under, theres no reason to pay forged prices for an engine that operates under 6000 rpm,or under 4000fpm of piston speed, buts its rather foolish to expect cast parts to stay together at 4500fpm of piston speed, or 7500rpm or higher either..and don,t forget the block must contain the stress, without flexing, a stock sbc block is rarely rated to over 400hp or 6000rpm
look closely for the key words like, 9000 series CAST STEEL, or INTERNALLY BALANCED, FORGED 4340 STEEL, 2618 alloy, BALANCE to within 1/2 gram, SFI certified, 7/16" ARP rods, L19 BOLTS, FILE FIT RINGS, COATED PISTONS, TOOL STEEL PINS, BUSHED RODS, FULL FLOATING PINS..........if a material or process is not prominently listed your probably getting sub standard components, or machine work

I usually prefer to use , these three sources, and mostly SCAT FORGED 4340 CRANKS, and 4340 forged H-beam rods

http://www.dougherbert.com

example
http://www.dougherbert.com/chevybbracee ... Path=1_611

http://www.summitracing.com

example
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-1-40760BI/

http://ohiocrank.com/chevbb_rotate.html

example
496 Super Kit

Price

* OC 4340 4.25" Crank
* OC 6.385 H-beam rods
* SRP dome, dish or Flat-top pistons
* Total Seal Moly Rings
* Federal Mogul race bearings
* Internally balanced
* Ready to Assemble

$1,899

read these

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=253&p=2124&hilit=alloy+2618#p2124

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=110&hilit=alloy+2618

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=204

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=1168&p=6452&hilit=rods+4340#p6452

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=1856&p=4864&hilit=+rods+4340#p4864

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=141&hilit=+rods+4340

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=510

sako · Apr 22, 2010

Mr. Grumpy,
Thank you for all the great info.
I found this rotating assembly on adperformance.com
Scat Competition Forged 383 Rotating Assembly, 350 main, 2rms
$969.00
Scat 4340 Forged Competition Rotating Assembly
-Scat 4340 3.75" Forged Crankshaft

-Scat 4340 Premium 6.0" I-beam Connecting Rods w/ 7/16" capscrew

-JE SRP forged pistons

We've run these crankshafts past 1200hp without failure!

H-beam rods and upgraded bolts are available as options.

#1- Comparing the H beam rods to I beam rods, both being forged how much straingth difference is there between the two.
And that difference, will it really make or break the combo for a street engine?
It does not say if its balanced or not. Is it balanced by the machine shop before its installed or does it come balanced from the factory? All the components are top name brands, does the quality change whether you buy it from them direct or a retailer like summit?
Just in case later on down the road i decide to get rid of the SC and go NA, does it make more sence to go with dished pistons to keep the compression down or to go with flat top and try different heads to change the compression if i decide to change things up?
Sorry for all the questions, im new to this and learning a hole lot from all your links.
One more stupid question.....I want to powder coat or paint the supercharger and intake, would that slow down the cooling of the components or does it not mater?
Thanks for your time and patience.

grumpyvette · Apr 22, 2010

"#1- Comparing the H beam rods to I beam rods, both being forged how much strength difference is there between the two.
And that difference, will it really make or break the combo for a street engine?

not enough to worry about,and I beam rods are usually easier to balance get either design

It does not say if its balanced or not. Is it balanced by the machine shop before its installed or does it come balanced from the factory? All the components are top name brands, does the quality change whether you buy it from them direct or a retailer like summit?

ASK LOTS OF DETAILED QUESTIONS BECAUSE THE ANSWERS VARY A GREAT DEAL,BETWEEN SOURCES

Just in case later on down the road i decide to get rid of the SC and go NA, does it make more sence to go with dished pistons to keep the compression down or to go with flat top and try different heads to change the compression if i decide to change things up?
Sorry for all the questions, im new to this and learning a hole lot from all your links.

NEW PISTONS <PISTONS ARE FAR LESS EXPENSIVE THAN NEW HEADS

One more stupid question.....I want to powder coat or paint the supercharger and intake, would that slow down the cooling of the components or does it not mater?

THERES NOT ENOUGH DIFFERENCE , IN HEAT TRANSFER RATES TO MATTER ON A STREET CAR
Thanks for your time and patience."

build me a 383, please

sako

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grumpyvette

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grumpyvette

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sako

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sako

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grumpyvette

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sako

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