Building a S̶t̶r̶o̶n̶g̶ ̶3̶5̶0̶ 383 for Frank the Tank…

Loves302Chevy said:
I'm still at page 20 - almost caught up. I just had to comment that the intake ports on the Perf RPM Air-Gap are raised
higher and may not align with the intake ports on your heads. They align well with those Chinese Pro-Comp heads.
Go with the Performer RPM non Air -Gap intake manifold.
Click to expand...
Thats good to know. Thanks.

I have the non airgap, so I'm hoping it all lines up.. :)
 
Grumpy said:
[qoute]
1. Cam - Grumpy has made a few recommendations... I recall a Crane Cam 110911 being a possibility
http://www.cranecams.com/product/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=23967
How do I enter that into the Intake Valve Closing Angle Calculator?
Click to expand...

the first step is pulling up the cam spec card

crane110911a.png

take the intake close specs , on the card, in this case 36 degrees and add 15 degrees (51) to get the APPROX valve seat timing and use that for calcs.[/QUOTE]
Grumpy, was this adding 15 degrees a "correction factor" for comparing HYD to SOLID flat tappet?
Or was it to compare seat-to-seat to .050" numbers?
 
its a ROUGH guide, or way too get you some place in the ball park range, way you can compare, seat vs .050 lift valve figures, used to get a start point to compare seat-to-seat to .050" numbers, its not exact but gets you close enough to have a semi-valid comparison. obviously the cam lobe acceleration ramps on various cams vary a great deal, between a hydraulic vs solid lifter or flat tappet vs roller lifter cam lobe designs and even various manufacturers tend to change the ramp acceleration rates so you might find adding 30 degrees on each side , to the .050 posted specs, to get a seat to seat numbers for comparison, may get you closer on some designs , but for a ball park number Ive found adding 15 degrees works, keep in mind theres darn little EFFECTIVE air flow volume , reaching past the valve edge and seat once the valves with-in 0.025 of the seat, but the valves seating speed must be slowed to prevent the valve from bouncing off the valve seat.
keep in mind that valve may be forced off its seat, too full lift and re-seating 50 plus TIMES A SECOND at near 5500 rpm, so theres very little TIME for gases to move through the very restrictive space between the valve seat and valve edge
vgd4.jpg

Calculating the valve curtain area
The following equation mathematically defines the available flow area for any given valve diameter and lift value:
Area = valve diameter x 0.98 x 3.14 x valve lift
Where 3.14 = pi (π)
For a typical 2.02-inch intake valve at .500-inch lift, it calculates as follows:
Area = 2.02 x 0.98 x 3.14 x 0.500 = 3.107 square inches
porting+valve_area.jpg


LiftCurveAread.gif
 
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I was researching transmission swaps in prep for when I do the engine swap and swap the current powerglide for the TH-350 I have in the garage waiting..

I noticed today (kind of embarrassed that I hadn't noticed before..) that the current trans oil lines running from the powerglide to the radiator are looped together with a short length of rubber tube, returning directly to the trans with no use of the bottom section of the radiator.... I'm unsure if the trans cooler section of the radiator is functional or not..

Question is... Am I potentially damaging the powerglide driving with only the lines and section of tube acting as a cooling system..?

I will of course now purchase a trans cooler for the TH-350...

If you were going to check the functionality of the trans cooler section of the radiator on the car, how might that be done...?
 
Certainly it's not the preferred situation. Sure maybe it will only go 150,000 miles
instead of 200,000 miles, but you are getting ready to replace the trans so why are
you worried? It all depends on how it was driven.

It's been awhile since we heard from you. Did you get moved and settled in???
 
Powerglides are real tough.
I would not worry Jimmy.

Pontiac had their own Version of the Powerglide trans - Super Turbine 300.
Buick had similar but was air cooled.
I think the ST 300 was too.
 
Powerglides are favored by many drag racers so dont throw yours away.
Sell it if you want to.
Pefect for a 76 mm Single or Twin Turbo Racer with a lightweight car.
1,000-2800 lbs.
 
Indycars said:
Certainly it's not the preferred situation. Sure maybe it will only go 150,000 miles
instead of 200,000 miles, but you are getting ready to replace the trans so why are
you worried? It all depends on how it was driven.

It's been awhile since we heard from you. Did you get moved and settled in???
Click to expand...

Ok cool. Thanks Rick. I was just concerned that the previous owner's short cuts might be risking the trans giving out unexpectedly... But, hopefully there will only be a few more short cruises before it gets replaced anyway as you say...

I've been lurking quietly... Still in Australia.. House went on the market a week ago, so as soon as it sells we can set dates for the move... All going well it will be in 3-4 months..
 
87vette81big said:
Powerglides are favored by many drag racers so dont throw yours away.
Sell it if you want to.
Pefect for a 76 mm Single or Twin Turbo Racer with a lightweight car.
1,000-2800 lbs.
Click to expand...

Thanks Brian. I'll leave well enough alone, and order a trans cooler for the TH-350 when it gets installed.

I'm almost considering holding onto the powerglide for a future project.. but, dragging it across the ocean might not be an option..
 
Would the simple way to check if the trans cooler section of the current radiator is serviceable (its currently empty with two unplugged holes..) be to plug one hole and blow compressed air into it? Checking for leaks..? Or, some other way... I'm thinking that I may be able to use that to cool the th350 if it is still up to service..?
 
I would flush it out, seal 1 end with a plug, install a barbed fitting in the other end
and pull a vacuum using a hand-held vacuum pump with gauge. If it maintains
the vacuum, you're good to go.
It also occurs to me as I type this, that you have about 15 psi of hot coolant around
that cooling coil, so if no coolant is leaking out of the ports, then it is probably OK.
 
Loves302Chevy said:
I would flush it out, seal 1 end with a plug, install a barbed fitting in the other end
and pull a vacuum using a hand-held vacuum pump with gauge. If it maintains
the vacuum, you're good to go.
It also occurs to me as I type this, that you have about 15 psi of hot coolant around
that cooling coil, so if no coolant is leaking out of the ports, then it is probably OK.
Click to expand...
Both good points... :)

Having not seen the innards of the trans cooling part of the radiator, I wasn't sure if your second point was the case...

I can pick up a cheap hand held pump/gauge for $20-30, which will likely be a handy tool for the future.. ;)
 
It is just a wound coil of tubing submerged in the engine coolant.
That said, it can only cool your transmission fluid down to your coolant temperature.
That's why an additional external cooler is beneficial.
 
You can get OEM lines for TH 350 for a small amount of cash on Ebay. Inline Tube makes repro OEM lines, mine were about 40 US dollars. Grumpy may know if powerglide and TH 350 are interchangeable, I am not sure. Just make sure the cooling line in the radiator is clean, it could have been plugged with crud in the line.
 
busterrm said:
You can get OEM lines for TH 350 for a small amount of cash on Ebay. Inline Tube makes repro OEM lines, mine were about 40 US dollars. Grumpy may know if powerglide and TH 350 are interchangeable, I am not sure. Just make sure the cooling line in the radiator is clean, it could have been plugged with crud in the line.
Click to expand...
Yes, good call. I have lines of unknown condition on the PG. After a quick search appear to be interchangeable.. as I've seen some lines for sale saying PG,TH350 and TH400 compatible. they currently do not leak...

Is there an easy way to flush/check for blockages in the trans cool line in the radiator? In the car.. I'm imagining that running the garden hose through may not be a good idea?
 
Its kinda hard to find that cooler flush local here today Jimmy.
I found that picture of Lubeguard cooler flush on ebay.

The auto repair world has gone to slap in and go.
New gen of mechanics dont flush the coolers.
If the trans fails then just make the customer buy another.
Just wrong.

The Lubeguard Trans cooler flush has always worked for me here.
O'Reilley or Napa has in stock sometimes .
'Or I have to call & order it in.
 
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