mathd
solid fixture here in the forum
Well the stock rod are pretty strong and could handle about 400hp, but dont detonate(so make sure tuning is spot on), the weak link is the rod bolt but you can change them to arp. But if your budjet allow its best to get new stronger rod. and like you said, wait while the funds recuperate before moving to the next step.
So yes it worth pushing time frames and extending budget a little to get there. Because stock rod will make future engine upgrade impossible or very expensive since we will reach the limit of the rotating assembly"rods" with this build. Anyway a cast crank can't really handle over 400 hp too... Your going forged or cast crank? that make a huge difference loll i assumed cast because of the budjet.
SBC are not a good choice for a budjet build. BBC or LS is the way 2 go.
I said you could re-use the stock one because your on a very small budjet, thats the ONLY reason. So if you can afford it, get better ones. 5.7 or 6 inch dosent really matter(but 5.7 is better for a street low redline engine"6000-6500, it do not change the compression much but it do change the dwell time and that help on pump gas/detonation)). If you make it an all out drag racing sky revving 8000 rpm engine get the 6 inch(and a forged crank too), but you will hate cruising on the street with a high revving engine.
Don'T get a headache with 5,7 vs 6 simply get the cheaper and stronger(best deal) since the difference is really minor and unnoticeable between 5.7 and 6.
I think, get the block prepped first, then move to the rotating assembly.
Rick's idea of .040 oversize is good. .060 on a stock block make for thin cylinder walls, am not a fan of that.(thats why you need the block checked and prepped first, so you know what size piston etc.. to get)
650-700 cfm is a good choice for a low redline 383. Even better, when the engine is ready.. have your engine spec on hand and give a call to holley, deamon .... they know better what to use for your combo(i bet they will say 650-700cfm if your cam's around 225-235 duration ).
Roller cam need stronger spring because of the extra valvetrain"lifter" weigth.
So yes it worth pushing time frames and extending budget a little to get there. Because stock rod will make future engine upgrade impossible or very expensive since we will reach the limit of the rotating assembly"rods" with this build. Anyway a cast crank can't really handle over 400 hp too... Your going forged or cast crank? that make a huge difference loll i assumed cast because of the budjet.
SBC are not a good choice for a budjet build. BBC or LS is the way 2 go.
I said you could re-use the stock one because your on a very small budjet, thats the ONLY reason. So if you can afford it, get better ones. 5.7 or 6 inch dosent really matter(but 5.7 is better for a street low redline engine"6000-6500, it do not change the compression much but it do change the dwell time and that help on pump gas/detonation)). If you make it an all out drag racing sky revving 8000 rpm engine get the 6 inch(and a forged crank too), but you will hate cruising on the street with a high revving engine.
Don'T get a headache with 5,7 vs 6 simply get the cheaper and stronger(best deal) since the difference is really minor and unnoticeable between 5.7 and 6.
I think, get the block prepped first, then move to the rotating assembly.
Rick's idea of .040 oversize is good. .060 on a stock block make for thin cylinder walls, am not a fan of that.(thats why you need the block checked and prepped first, so you know what size piston etc.. to get)
650-700 cfm is a good choice for a low redline 383. Even better, when the engine is ready.. have your engine spec on hand and give a call to holley, deamon .... they know better what to use for your combo(i bet they will say 650-700cfm if your cam's around 225-235 duration ).
Roller cam need stronger spring because of the extra valvetrain"lifter" weigth.
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