Building a S̶t̶r̶o̶n̶g̶ ̶3̶5̶0̶ 383 for Frank the Tank…

Discussion in 'Engine Combos and Dynometer Database' started by JimmyDuncan, May 1, 2015.

  1. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    If You Really want To Drag Race Hard You Need a Transbrake Equipped Turbo 400 Transmission.
    Nothing Better.
    Absolutely nothing stronger.
     
  2. busterrm

    busterrm solid fixture here in the forum

    Bump your initial timing up to 14-16 and see what your total is then.
     
  3. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

  4. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    Not sure what advance the Davis DUI Ignition comes with from Summit Racing.
    If you call them they will custom build what you want Jimmy.

    I say 20 degrees at the Crank Mechanical advance.
    It will be 10 degrees at the distributor checked on a SUN Distributor machine.
    Dial in 12-16 degrees initial.
    Usually works nice on a SBC Street engine pump gas.
    Be 32-36 BTDC Total timing no vacuum advance.

    22 -24 degrees also Ok At crank build.
    More for mild non performance cams.
    Stock .
     
  5. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    Aggressive cams want lots of initial timing typical.
     
  6. JimmyDuncan

    JimmyDuncan Well-Known Member

    Hey guys,

    So my starter motor died... :(

    For a while it was only an intermittent short grind after the engine kicked over, then at the track it started to screech then started to not want to turn over… it got to the point that I was imagining I only had a handful of starts left, so I left it running while I refuelled on the journey home… it was a frankenstarter that I had made out of two old starters, so can’t complain really.. got my moneys worth.. :)


    I’m keen on opinions as to what style of starter is best as far as value (cheap..) and reliability… the old starter didn’t seem to struggle (while it was working.. ) to turn the engine over, so, I don’t think I need a super strong starter.. I can’t afford a big brand starter anyway… Is there a mid-level model and brand that will do the job? Most I’ve spoke to recommend a mini high torque starter. I guess the weight saving and higher torque would be of benefit..


    I’m still chasing the coolant drip.. Which I hope wasn’t related to the starter failing…? It does drip near there.. Any way to tell if I dismantle the dead starter?
     
  7. Indycars

    Indycars Administrator Staff Member

    Can't you get a re-manufactured starter locally since the old one seemed to work just fine.

    I can't see a starter having anything to do with a coolant leak. You need look closely around the top
    of the motor to see if it's coming down the back of the engine. Hopefully you don't have a crack in
    the block or heads near the starter.
     
  8. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    The Original Delco 10 MT starter motor is the most reliable In the High Torque version.
    They are getting rare to find in the USA now.

    2nd best option I have found is the Factory GM 8.1 LITER 496 Ci. BIG BLOCK CHEVY GEAR REDUCTION STARTER MOTOR.
    I went this route on my 1999 Chevy Tahoe earlier this winter.
    Be back with the Napa part number for you.

    3rd is Power Master or Tilton Mini starter.
    Tilton is the very Best and will cost $375- $500.
     
  9. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

  10. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

  11. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

  12. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

  13. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    Do you have the inline starter bolt pattern or Staggered offset Jimmy ?
     
  14. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    I don't have any good High Torque 10MT starter cores left.
    I rebuilt them all and installed on all I have but the 70TA and 1999 Chevy Tahoe.
    Hard to find now even on ebay.

    China junk allover.
    PIA.
     
  15. JimmyDuncan

    JimmyDuncan Well-Known Member

    Hey Rick!

    Yeah, I’m not sure if they’re available locally. but, I’ll ask around.. trying to get in touch with an autoelectrician near by... my father recently replaced his.. waiting to hear what he paid..

    I was more asking if coolant getting in the starter might have caused it to fail..? I’m still hunting the coolant leak.. it’s nothing obvious, but concerned it is a crack in the block.. it seems to be coming from a little further forward of the starter and heading along the edge of the oil pan and dripping off the back of the oil pan.. it’s stripped a lot of the paint off the pan and the block..
     
  16. JimmyDuncan

    JimmyDuncan Well-Known Member

  17. JimmyDuncan

    JimmyDuncan Well-Known Member

    I think the block accepts both..? But, it was an offset one.. I’ve got one of each (both not working..) here..

    What decides which you use if your block accepts both..?
     
  18. JimmyDuncan

    JimmyDuncan Well-Known Member

    Just did a quick research and see that my externally balanced 383 has a 400 style 14” 168 tooth flexplate, so I need a staggered bolt pattern yes?
     
  19. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    Look up a starter motor for a 2001 - 2009 Chevy Silverado 3500 with a 8.1L 496 ci BBC engine.
    It's the starter motor you want.
     
  20. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer. Staff Member

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