Building a S̶t̶r̶o̶n̶g̶ ̶3̶5̶0̶ 383 for Frank the Tank…

Hey guys,

A mate of a mate is selling a 383 and he’s happy to sell it complete or as a short block.. it’s got fuelie heads apparently with quite a lot of port work done on them.. but I’m thinking I’ll be better off with my alloy heads for performance..? So, I’m considering the short block.. At the right price I’ll be ahead of the rebuild cost...? Yeah?

Obviously I’ll get it checked over thoroughly by my local engine builder before doing anything.. and the guy is even happy to let me put it in the car before deciding.. he’s a friend of one of my best mates and I think he’s a pretty legit guy..

I know it’s a question with lots of layers and it’s all interrelated to the rest of my combo, but, if the short block checks out with my local engine builder...
How does his cam compare to my current cam..?

The engine for sale has an Edelbrock 7102 cam in it:

https://www.edelbrock.com/performer-plus-camshaft-kit-for-big-block-chevy-283-400-v8-7102.html

46B1A1AA-8225-44F1-8C97-9784BF2C0129.jpeg

My current cam is:

https://www.crowcams.com.au/FindaProduct/tabid/92/ProdID/15360/Chev_Small_Block_Cam.aspx

EF583EB4-7112-4966-B3EE-A76D084A6169.jpeg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Which leads me to another question.. if I go with a rebuild.. I guess I get an opportunity to upgrade/change the cam... :rolleyes: and maybe a little machine work, port matching...?

Is there a hyd flat tappet cam that you’d suggest will out perform my current cam...? It goes pretty well running 13.4 ets, but a few (5..) tenths would be awesome... :D

What cam would you replace mine with..?

I don’t know my CR, but will for rebuild.. so, maybe that will help decide?
 
JimmyDuncan said:
Hey guys,

A mate of a mate is selling a 383 and he’s happy to sell it complete or as a short block.. it’s got fuelie heads apparently with quite a lot of port work done on them.. but I’m thinking I’ll be better off with my alloy heads for performance..? So, I’m considering the short block.. At the right price I’ll be ahead of the rebuild cost...? Yeah?

Obviously I’ll get it checked over thoroughly by my local engine builder before doing anything.. and the guy is even happy to let me put it in the car before deciding.. he’s a friend of one of my best mates and I think he’s a pretty legit guy..

I know it’s a question with lots of layers and it’s all interrelated to the rest of my combo, but, if the short block checks out with my local engine builder...

How does his cam compare to my current cam..?

The engine for sale has an Edelbrock 7102 cam in it:

https://www.edelbrock.com/performer-plus-camshaft-kit-for-big-block-chevy-283-400-v8-7102.html

View attachment 12014

My current cam is:

https://www.crowcams.com.au/FindaProduct/tabid/92/ProdID/15360/Chev_Small_Block_Cam.aspx

View attachment 12013
Click to expand...

Jump On the Deal Jimmy.
Only question is what pistons are in the engine now.

Since American V8's are Rare in New Zealand and it s a running 383 engine and a friend of yours do not pass the deal up.

Use a Drag Race Front Motor Engine plate from Competition Engineering ( Moroso parts division ) this time around.
No More stress cracks on the side of the block ever.
The Reverse torsional stress when on the gas and pulling hard does not transfer through the side of the SBC Block no longer.
Its transferred to the front of the engine.
The Block cylinder case no longer twists and tries to pull apart or crack what happened this last time around.
Well worth the $100 -150 bucks.
 
JimmyDuncan said:
Which leads me to another question.. if I go with a rebuild.. I guess I get an opportunity to upgrade/change the cam... :rolleyes: and maybe a little machine work, port matching...?

Is there a hyd flat tappet cam that you’d suggest will out perform my current cam...? It goes pretty well running 13.4 ets, but a few (5..) tenths would be awesome... :D

What cam would you replace mine with..?

I don’t know my CR, but will for rebuild.. so, maybe that will help decide?
Click to expand...
He has a Hotter cam than you have now.
Your old engine ran really good for only having .480 valve lift.
Really good cylinder heads you have.

Use your old cam.
Present cam in the New engine.
Or buy another camshaft.
Time to figure it out.

Just Get & Buy that running 383 SBC.
 
No More Chevy Motor Mounts Jimmy in Frank the Tank.
Ditch them this time around.

Drag Race Front Motor Engine plate.

Your Racing Frank the Tank at the track & driving.
Not old man cruising putting around.
 
See quite a few people on forums describing the E 7102 cam as old technology..? Suggesting that its not that great..? What's that mean.?
 
Jimmy, might be okay if you put 1.6 rockers on it. Lift would increase to Int. .521 and Ext. .544, add about 2-3 degrees duration for the larger ratio. With good flowing heads in that lift range and it would run pretty good. You'll have to do some clearancing for the longer ratio in the heads maybe. You would need a higher CR so your DCR is up higher. Intake CA on that is about 82 degrees ABDC.
 
JimmyDuncan said:
See quite a few people on forums describing the E 7102 cam as old technology..? Suggesting that its not that great..? What's that mean.?
Click to expand...
Edelbrock designed thier cams for all around use.
Not bad but often not great.
Often leave power on the table.
Maybe because they figure many people will use 87 R/M 2 gasoline here.

Engine simulation is best done and most accurate predictions what the cam or cams will do Jimmy for torque and Hp.
 
There are a few engine simulators around online you can try out Jimmy.

It's nice in a daily driver to be able to run on 87 octane gas.
Save a tom of money.

But limited street use and track racing need to design the engine to run on 91-94 octane gas.
Or 110 -120 octane for max power.
 
Sorry for the late reply.

Us old timers use to use water glass for engines and heads.

Sodium silicate - Wikipedia
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_silicate
Sodium silicate is suspended in the coolant until it reaches the cylinder head. At 100-105°C (212-221°F), sodium silicate loses water molecules to form a glass seal with a remelt temperature above 810°C (1,490°F). A sodium silicate repair can last two years or longer. The repair occurs rapidly, and symptoms disappear instantly.

Can be bought at Drug Stores by the quart and is all that you need and was cheap at one time. Pour in the quart and run up to temperature and let sit for 24 hours. It works,
 
T-Test said:
Sorry for the late reply.

Us old timers use to use water glass for engines and heads.

Sodium silicate - Wikipedia
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_silicate
Sodium silicate is suspended in the coolant until it reaches the cylinder head. At 100-105°C (212-221°F), sodium silicate loses water molecules to form a glass seal with a remelt temperature above 810°C (1,490°F). A sodium silicate repair can last two years or longer. The repair occurs rapidly, and symptoms disappear instantly.
Click to expand...
It may work for Jimmy Yes T-Test.
 
busterrm said:
Jimmy, might be okay if you put 1.6 rockers on it. Lift would increase to Int. .521 and Ext. .544, add about 2-3 degrees duration for the larger ratio. With good flowing heads in that lift range and it would run pretty good. You'll have to do some clearancing for the longer ratio in the heads maybe. You would need a higher CR so your DCR is up higher. Intake CA on that is about 82 degrees ABDC.
Click to expand...
Ah ok.. I've got 1.5 roller rockers in my heads, so maybe a cam swap or using my cam will be a better performance outcome..? Until I confirm all the components in the short block, it may be a bit academic to figure it all out.. but, as a ballpark comparison does the 7102 cam look like it would perform better, worse or the same as my current cam?
 
JimmyDuncan said:
Ah ok.. I've got 1.5 roller rockers in my heads, so maybe a cam swap or using my cam will be a better performance outcome..? Until I confirm all the components in the short block, it may be a bit academic to figure it all out.. but, as a ballpark comparison does the 7102 cam look like it would perform better, worse or the same as my current cam?
Click to expand...
You have to take into consideration the TH350 gear ratios, Torque converter stall speed, final drive gearing, and more.
 
Maniacmechanic1 said:
There are a few engine simulators around online you can try out Jimmy.

It's nice in a daily driver to be able to run on 87 octane gas.
Save a tom of money.

But limited street use and track racing need to design the engine to run on 91-94 octane gas.
Or 110 -120 octane for max power.
Click to expand...
I'll look into the simulators. Thanks Brian.

Economy is not a big priority... Like you said, I'm weekend cruising, blast about and racing a few times a year.
 
T-Test said:
Sorry for the late reply.

Us old timers use to use water glass for engines and heads.

Sodium silicate - Wikipedia
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_silicate
Sodium silicate is suspended in the coolant until it reaches the cylinder head. At 100-105°C (212-221°F), sodium silicate loses water molecules to form a glass seal with a remelt temperature above 810°C (1,490°F). A sodium silicate repair can last two years or longer. The repair occurs rapidly, and symptoms disappear instantly.

Can be bought at Drug Stores by the quart and is all that you need and was cheap at one time. Pour in the quart and run up to temperature and let sit for 24 hours. It works,
Click to expand...
That's an interesting idea... thanks.. Would you do this instead of say the Moroso Ceramic sealant..? Do you need to remove antifreeze first..?
 
Once I've had a look at the short block and know what's in it, I'll post up all the details of my combo and what I know about the short block and my current engine and get all your thoughts on cam selection.. While I don't want to spend a tonne of $$ on this unexpected rebuild (as little as possible...), if there is decent performance gain in a cam swap I'll consider it...
 
Obviously this is on my mind right now… So, now I’m on the verge of pulling the engine and rebuilding over winter, I figured I’d review with you guys what I’m working with… I’ll for sure try some form of additive to keep the car on the road for a little longer till I have a decent plan in mind.. but, winter is the best time to have Frank the Tank off the road.. I’m keen to race at the Father’s Day drags in September…. I’m going for a low cost rebuild, but if there is easy/low cost upgrades to be had without the knock on effect of having to upgrade everything, I’ll take it..


66 Chev Impala 3800lbs+ not including me…
Mainly a cruiser, but like the odd skid and fast acceleration… ;)
Drag racing 4-5 times a year – best ET 13.4

'68 010 4 bolt mains block, 4.040 bore (now has a crack.. needing to be replaced)
385 stroker
Scat external balance cast rotating assembly - 5.6" rods, hyperutectic pistons (flat top with approx 5cc relief)
Promaxx 185cc, (had) 72cc chamber heads – potentially/probably machined for CR when built… unfortunately unsure at this stage to what.. will clarify during rebuild..
1.5 roller rockers
Cam – see below..
Larger volume oil pan
Holley 4bbl 725cfm vac sec carb
Performer RPM intake
1 5/8 Hedman headers – removable plates after collector for racing/sounding cool..
running 98RON fuel...which I think is equivalent to US94?
26” tires – ET streets
12 bolt posi diff - 3.31:1 rear gear
TH350 auto 1st 2.52, 2nd 1.52, 3rd 1.00
Hughes GM25 2500 stall convertor
Non-power brakes

Where if anywhere do you guys see some room for low cost improvement..? I felt like there was still some tuning room, but what do you think?

EF583EB4-7112-4966-B3EE-A76D084A6169.jpeg
 
JimmyDuncan said:
Obviously this is on my mind right now… So, now I’m on the verge of pulling the engine and rebuilding over winter, I figured I’d review with you guys what I’m working with… I’ll for sure try some form of additive to keep the car on the road for a little longer till I have a decent plan in mind.. but, winter is the best time to have Frank the Tank off the road.. I’m keen to race at the Father’s Day drags in September…. I’m going for a low cost rebuild, but if there is easy/low cost upgrades to be had without the knock on effect of having to upgrade everything, I’ll take it..


66 Chev Impala 3800lbs+ not including me…
Mainly a cruiser, but like the odd skid and fast acceleration… ;)
Drag racing 4-5 times a year – best ET 13.4

'68 010 4 bolt mains block, 4.040 bore (now has a crack.. needing to be replaced)
385 stroker
Scat external balance cast rotating assembly - 5.6" rods, hyperutectic pistons (flat top with approx 5cc relief)
Promaxx 185cc, (had) 72cc chamber heads – potentially/probably machined for CR when built… unfortunately unsure at this stage to what.. will clarify during rebuild..
1.5 roller rockers
Cam – see below..
Larger volume oil pan
Holley 4bbl 725cfm vac sec carb
Performer RPM intake
1 5/8 Hedman headers – removable plates after collector for racing/sounding cool..
running 98RON fuel...which I think is equivalent to US94?
26” tires – ET streets
12 bolt posi diff - 3.31:1 rear gear
TH350 auto 1st 2.52, 2nd 1.52, 3rd 1.00
Hughes GM25 2500 stall convertor
Non-power brakes

Where if anywhere do you guys see some room for low cost improvement..? I felt like there was still some tuning room, but what do you think?

View attachment 12021
Click to expand...
Think of a number $$$$ your willing to spend Jimmy.
It will dictate what direction to go.
I like 108 Lobe Centerline Cams.
Isky cams.
It's starting the math allover again.
Takes time to do it for you.
I will have time later this week.

Most hotter cams will require a rear diff gear change to a lower or higher numerical gearset.
About $900- 1500 to rebuild any differential with new gears, bearings, rebuild Posi unit.
 
Maniacmechanic1 said:
Think of a number $$$$ your willing to spend Jimmy.
It will dictate what direction to go.
I like 108 Lobe Centerline Cams.
Isky cams.
It's starting the math allover again.
Takes time to do it for you.
I will have time later this week.

Most hotter cams will require a rear diff gear change to a lower or higher numerical gearset.
About $900- 1500 to rebuild any differential with new gears, bearings, rebuild Posi unit.
Click to expand...

I hear you Brian.. I’m sure I could spend any amount $$$$ and still want more.. ;) I spoke with the engine builder this morning about a rebuild and he thought it should be about $2k + the block to rebuild, reusing as much of my current parts as is sensible.. he’s doing some firmer sums for me this week hopefully..

I really appreciate your input Brian, and no rush on the advice mate. Just me getting excited and stressing a little.. :rolleyes:

I’m hesitant to spend anything on the diff at this stage.. the 3.3:1 seems to be in the sweet spot for bearable rpm at 60-70 mph.. I thought I saw somewhere Grumpy suggesting that th350 trans gear works best in that diff range..?

So, maybe I’m only asking if there is a significantly better cam that would net me some 10th on the track rather than reusing mine if I can..?
 
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