http://74.125.93.132/search?q=cache:9nf ... clnk&gl=us
RELATED THREAD
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=103&p=7331&hilit=window+regulator#p7331
http://www.corvettefever.com/techarticl ... index.html
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/window-motor-replacement-info.103/
http://tech.corvettecentral.com/2014/06 ... placement/ (WEATHER SEAL ON DOOR REPLACEMENT)
https://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=148656
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/1984-19 ... placement/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... zz1Du3TgRw
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=2072
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=2621
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7662
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=103
info that will eventually be useful
Adjustment Procedure for a Corvette C4 Side Window
http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvette-3-106-8514.html
related info youll need
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/window-motor-replacement-info.103/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/c-4-side-window-alignment-adjustment.2072/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...corvette-door-panel-replacement-related.2621/
The first step in this process is to check the alignment of the door. Roll the window down. close the door. If it closes easily, move on to the glass adjustment described below. If it doesn't, first check to see if the door is sagging by closing it as far as possible WITHOUT latching and check the alignment of the belt moulding at the rear of the door and the short piece of belt moulding on the body in front of the rear wheel.
They should be at the same height. To adjust the door you will need to remove the lower rocker vent panel (the piece behind the front wheel) to gain access to the lower door hinge bolts. Then loosen the bolts connecting the hinges to the body ONLY. Then get a helper or a floor jack with a piece of wood, open the door slightly, and raise the back of the door up so the belt moulding on the back of the door is just slightly higher than the one on the car body. Retighten the hinge to body bolts, remove support and re-check to see if the door belt moulding and body belt moulding heights are level with each other.
Once you get this correct, you can move on to adjusting how the door meets at the lower sill and "A" pillar. This is done by checking to see if the door is adjusted too far in or out at the top by first referencing how the top of the door lines up with the hood. My door was in about 3/16" further than the hood. I also noticed too much contact at the top front of the door when closing. (Press door closed with outside door handle held up so you can really feel what is
happening) by loosening all of the hinge to door bolts only, the door can be moved and checked for premature contact against the car body. Try to get the door to close without contacting any part of the body too soon (ideally you want the door to close flat on the body so you have even pressure along the weather-stripping, which on the door goes down the front of the door and along the bottom of the door sill) then tighten the bolts.
Once you are satisfied with how the door closes, its time to move on to the glass. Roll up the window and slowly close the door. Watch the weather-strip while doing this. The weather-strip should compress slightly but evenly along the "a" pillar and the roof. You can further check this by closing the door on a dollar bill and pulling the bill out. You should feel a slight resistance on the bill at any point.
Another check is to turn the A/C or heat blower on high, close the door, and spray soapy water along the weather-strip to see if it bubbles, indicating an air leak. If you need to adjust the glass, remove the door panel. Before making any adjustments, first close the door with the window up and put a strip of masking tape on the outside of the glass next to and parallel with the outer door sill weather-strip.
Next, run another strip of tape on the sill weather-strip itself butted up to the tape on the glass. This will give you a vertical reference of where your glass was when you started. Next, draw a vertical line across both pieces of tape at 2" intervals. This will give you a horizontal reference of the same. Once you roll the window down halfway to access the bolts, loosen them, and the glass slides around, you will not know where it was when you started unless you
have these references.
The shop manual suggests scribing around the washers for the bolts holding the glass, but I don't think it is nearly as accurate. Roll the window down far enough to access the three bolts holding the glass
in place. Move it where you think it needs to go. Retighten and check. It will take some trial and error to get it right, but it is well worth it.
There is also a way to tilt the glass in or out; by loosening one 10mm bolt near the top rear of the door if you think that might help. Perform the leak test described above. When everything seems right, reinstall the lower vented rocker panel you removed to adjust the door and it is time to test drive before putting the door panel back on. Before you test drive, grab a big heavy towel or blanket, get in the car and close the door. Tuck the edge of the blanket into the top of the doorsill and push the rest against the doorframe. This will silence the road and wind noise you would otherwise have with the door panel off. You should be able to hear any air leaks and correct them before putting the door panel back on this way.
One more tip:
If you can't seem to eliminate all of the wind noise, try taping the seams between the windshield and the roof panel and the side of the windshield where it meets the "a" pillar. You might have a leaking windshield that was not installed properly or a top that needs adjustment and mistake that for side window noise. NOTE: Author Unknown but will not be forgotten by those who need and use this procedure!!!
*** Contributed by Casey Webster – Australia ***
RELATED THREAD
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=103&p=7331&hilit=window+regulator#p7331
http://www.corvettefever.com/techarticl ... index.html
http://tech.corvettecentral.com/2014/06 ... placement/ (WEATHER SEAL ON DOOR REPLACEMENT)
https://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=148656
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/1984-19 ... placement/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... zz1Du3TgRw
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=2072
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=2621
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7662
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=103
info that will eventually be useful
Adjustment Procedure for a Corvette C4 Side Window
http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvette-3-106-8514.html
related info youll need
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/window-motor-replacement-info.103/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/c-4-side-window-alignment-adjustment.2072/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...corvette-door-panel-replacement-related.2621/
The first step in this process is to check the alignment of the door. Roll the window down. close the door. If it closes easily, move on to the glass adjustment described below. If it doesn't, first check to see if the door is sagging by closing it as far as possible WITHOUT latching and check the alignment of the belt moulding at the rear of the door and the short piece of belt moulding on the body in front of the rear wheel.
They should be at the same height. To adjust the door you will need to remove the lower rocker vent panel (the piece behind the front wheel) to gain access to the lower door hinge bolts. Then loosen the bolts connecting the hinges to the body ONLY. Then get a helper or a floor jack with a piece of wood, open the door slightly, and raise the back of the door up so the belt moulding on the back of the door is just slightly higher than the one on the car body. Retighten the hinge to body bolts, remove support and re-check to see if the door belt moulding and body belt moulding heights are level with each other.
Once you get this correct, you can move on to adjusting how the door meets at the lower sill and "A" pillar. This is done by checking to see if the door is adjusted too far in or out at the top by first referencing how the top of the door lines up with the hood. My door was in about 3/16" further than the hood. I also noticed too much contact at the top front of the door when closing. (Press door closed with outside door handle held up so you can really feel what is
happening) by loosening all of the hinge to door bolts only, the door can be moved and checked for premature contact against the car body. Try to get the door to close without contacting any part of the body too soon (ideally you want the door to close flat on the body so you have even pressure along the weather-stripping, which on the door goes down the front of the door and along the bottom of the door sill) then tighten the bolts.
Once you are satisfied with how the door closes, its time to move on to the glass. Roll up the window and slowly close the door. Watch the weather-strip while doing this. The weather-strip should compress slightly but evenly along the "a" pillar and the roof. You can further check this by closing the door on a dollar bill and pulling the bill out. You should feel a slight resistance on the bill at any point.
Another check is to turn the A/C or heat blower on high, close the door, and spray soapy water along the weather-strip to see if it bubbles, indicating an air leak. If you need to adjust the glass, remove the door panel. Before making any adjustments, first close the door with the window up and put a strip of masking tape on the outside of the glass next to and parallel with the outer door sill weather-strip.
Next, run another strip of tape on the sill weather-strip itself butted up to the tape on the glass. This will give you a vertical reference of where your glass was when you started. Next, draw a vertical line across both pieces of tape at 2" intervals. This will give you a horizontal reference of the same. Once you roll the window down halfway to access the bolts, loosen them, and the glass slides around, you will not know where it was when you started unless you
have these references.
The shop manual suggests scribing around the washers for the bolts holding the glass, but I don't think it is nearly as accurate. Roll the window down far enough to access the three bolts holding the glass
in place. Move it where you think it needs to go. Retighten and check. It will take some trial and error to get it right, but it is well worth it.
There is also a way to tilt the glass in or out; by loosening one 10mm bolt near the top rear of the door if you think that might help. Perform the leak test described above. When everything seems right, reinstall the lower vented rocker panel you removed to adjust the door and it is time to test drive before putting the door panel back on. Before you test drive, grab a big heavy towel or blanket, get in the car and close the door. Tuck the edge of the blanket into the top of the doorsill and push the rest against the doorframe. This will silence the road and wind noise you would otherwise have with the door panel off. You should be able to hear any air leaks and correct them before putting the door panel back on this way.
One more tip:
If you can't seem to eliminate all of the wind noise, try taping the seams between the windshield and the roof panel and the side of the windshield where it meets the "a" pillar. You might have a leaking windshield that was not installed properly or a top that needs adjustment and mistake that for side window noise. NOTE: Author Unknown but will not be forgotten by those who need and use this procedure!!!
*** Contributed by Casey Webster – Australia ***
Last edited by a moderator:
