c5 -c6 sensors, grounds etc.

[grumpyvette]

http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread.ph ... te-Grounds

2007 c6 corvette grounds
(1) Repeater Lamp - Left (T90)
(2) Suspension Damper - LF (F55)
(3) G101
(4) C119
(5) Marker Lamp - LF
(6) Fog Lamp - LF
(7) Inflatable Restraint Front End Sensor - Left
(8) Inflatable Restraint Front End Sensor - Right
(9) Ambient Air Temperature Sensor
(10) C131 to Underhood Lamp (if equipped)
(11) Horn Assembly
(12) Fog Lamp - RF
(13) S102
(14) C120
(15) Marker Lamp - RF
(16) C102
(17) G102
(18) Suspension Damper - RF (F55)
(19) Hood Ajar Switch
(20) Fuse Block - Underhood C1
(21) Repeater Lamp - Right (T90)

(1) A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor
(2) Hood Ajar Switch
(3) C166
(4) C186
(5) C168 (F55)
(6) Windshield Washer Fluid Level Switch
(7) Windshield Washer Fluid Pump
(8) Headlamp Washer Fluid Pump (CE4)
(9) S101
(10) S103

(1) C139
(2) Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Bank 2 Sensor 1
(3) Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
(4) Throttle Body Assembly
(5) Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Valve
(6) A/C Compressor Clutch
(7) C160
(8) Suspension Position Sensor - RF
(9) Fuse Block - Underhood C2
(10) Engine Control Module (ECM) C3
(11) Engine Control Module (ECM) C2
(12) Engine Control Module (ECM) C1
(13) C184
(14) C182
(15) C180
(16) C186
(17) Engine Oil Level Switch
(18) Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
(19) Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Bank 2 Sensor 2
(20) Fusible Link
(21) G106
(22) Starter Solenoid
(23) Starter Crank Voltage
(24) Knock Sensor (KS) Bank 2

(1) Generator
(2) C140
(3) Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Bank 1 Sensor 1
(4) G107
(5) Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Bank 1 Sensor 2
(6) Knock Sensor (KS) Bank 1
(7) G105
(8) Wheel Speed Sensor (WSS) - LF
(9) Suspension Position Sensor - LF
(10) Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
(11) Variable Effort Steering Actuator
(12) S195
(13) Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
(14) Brake Fluid Pressure Sensor
(15) Generator

(1) C116
(2) C180
(3) C182
(4) G104
(5) Fuse Block - Underhood C3
(6) Fuse Block - Underhood C4

This a pic of the coolant temp sensor from Junk that shows it very well. Much thanks to JUNKMAN!

This is a pic of mine showing it in the car with the accessories on as well. You will see it much easier when you remove the drivers side fuel rail/coil pack cover.

This is the schematic for the coolant sensor.

And this is the pin out.

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Notice that the connector should have the source 5v coming in on the yellow wire on side B. That is coming from the PCM out of pin 74.

The other side A is the signal that goes back to the PCM into pin 80.

The way the PCM monitors the coolant temp is this way. It sends the 5v to the coolant temp sensor. There is a thermistor inside the sensor that when the coolant is cold pulls little resistance on the 5v allowing it to almost pass freely allowing almost the full 5v to return to the computer. Then as the coolant heats up, that thermistor starts to add more resistance allowing less and less of that 5v to make it back to the PCM. The PCM then uses that signal to tell the instrument cluster where to put the gauge.

The first thing I would do is use a DVOM to check for 5v on the B side of the wire coming from the PCM. Make sure the key is off when you disconnect it, and then turn the key on but don't start the engine. Then check for the 5v at the connector on the B side.

If you are getting 5v, then you will would check for continuity between the connector on the A side and pin 80 at the PCM.

If you have continuity, then you would most likely have a bad sensor.

But another way to test it would be to check for the 5v at the B connector, and if its good, then put the connector back on and check for voltage coming out on the A side. You can do that by back stabbing the connector with it on the sensor and the key on. If you aren't getting any voltage out of the A side then I would say the sensor is bad.

And lastly, if you have a good relationship with your parts people, you can drive up to the parts store and just plug a new sensor on the connector without putting it in the engine. This way you can test it without buying the part.

Let me know if you do any of these and you find that the voltages and the sensor are good. Then there is a completely different new set of things to do to test communication of the PCM and the instrument cluster.

I have done my best and I hope I haven't imparted anything wrong. Best of luck.