1963SS said:I'm building an engine for my vehicle and just dropped the parts off at Fowler Engines in Columbus, Ohio to get some machining done. They're going to zero deck the block, match the intake ports to the new AFR heads, hone it from .030 to 4.040 and just some basic cleanup. That shop is pretty amazing. They build these 3000-4000 horsepower alcohol engines for drag racers and tractor pulling stuff. They do one unlimited tractor that has 5 3500 horsepower engines on it. They're putting on a smaller supercharger to get the horsepower down to "only" about 3000 horsepower because 3500 is too much. At the higher horsepower the tractor just jumps around too much.
I know Brian and Zinc would love this place. They take some bar aluminum stock and make their own rods. I saw some aluminum rods there that were about 16" long. Wow. They also build their own superchargers. They get in a cast unmachined supercharger housing and do all the machining on it. They make their own rotors, gears and end pieces from scratch also. I saw some 18-71 blowers they were working on and wow, that's a big ole supercharger.
We were talking about my 550 horsepower goal for my engine and they told me that 550 horsepower wouldn't be enough to turn one of their big superchargers. That's pretty impressive.
They are going to put a taper on my intake runners and round out the air entry points and add a diffuser plate to help all intake runners get the same amount of air.
If you all need anything like this done I'd say these are the guys to do it. They were adding 3/4" of weld to a John Deere 6 cylinder crank and then turning it forr an additional 3/4 inch of stroke. That damned crank looked to be about 4-5 feet long. Big sucker.
My AFR springs were 600# @ .625" lift and 190 on the seat. That should work well with my solid roller lifters and shaft mount rockers.
This is going to be the engine that my Nephew and I will be taking on the Hot Rod Power Tour in June. I expect 3500 trouble free miles including two drag racing venues and one autocross. Now to figure how to get some slicks to fit in the car and I'll be good to go. Maybe just stand them up and strap them to a luggage rack that I don't have and don't like the looks of. Time will tell.
Just thought I'd let you all know about this stuff because I know Brian will be all excited. Have a great day and now I've got to put a charger on my work car so I can run to the auto parts place and get a battery installed. Mine was charged yesterday and it was almost dead this morning.
Of course it was ZERO outside and nothing else works at that temperature so why should the battery.
I'm working with what I have. I have two SR cams.The one I spec'd has 603/609 lift and 236/242 duration with a LSA of 112.
I found another cam that Lloyd Elliot spec'd and it has 238/252 duration and 667/648 lift on a 112. I'm thinking the Lloyd Elliot cam might create a lot more stress on the valvetrain but I'm just not sure.
I have the dyno sheet for the Lloyd Elliot cam and it made 412RWHP and 332 torque. There had to be some tuning problem or mismatched parts for that cam to only make that power. I'll not pay attention to the dyno sheet. Something was wrong.
I'll be using the shaft mount 1.6 Jesel rockers so the valvetrain shouldn't be an issue. I'm also keeping the compression around 11.5 max. It is a street car and a well tuned LT4 can use that compression on any pump gas high test in the country. Whatcha think?
Thanks for the advice Brian. I have the Moser 103001-1 forged axles and the c-clip eliminators. I have the Eaton posi with the 400# springs. This is, after all, a street car that gets driven everywhere. I can't go too crazy. I'm even thinking of putting some weaker springs on the valves. I don't think the 600# open and 203# on the seat will hurt anything but for longevity I may try something not quite as high. Maybe, maybe not. I haven't decided yet.
What would you recommend for a solid roller with about .600 lift. I have the lifters sent to Comp right now and they're rebuilding them. They say that they are good for 900# springs at least so my puny little 600's may not be as big a deal as I'm making it out to be.
GRUMPYVETTE this cam "1963SS wrote:
The one I spec'd has 603/609 lift and 236/242 duration with a LSA of 112."
matched to the correct components will easily exceed 500hp, the more radical cam will most likely make more noise than power in any engine with low enough compression to run on low octane pump gas,and operating in the 2000rpm-6000rpm power band
read this[/color]
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ding-related-links-and-info.10255/#post-55578
http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article031/A-P1.htm
http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article085/A-P1.htm
http://www.tonybarkerracingengines.com/ ... ETEST.html
theres not much sense in building any engine for street use that won,t last for 60-90K on the street or run on pump octane gas or run fairly decent below 4500rpm and thats NOT likely with the second cam... many guys make the common mistake of over caming an engine, it may sound nasty at idle but it won,t make good torque and run well in the lower rpm ranges youll use 90% of the time driving on the street, 87vette70TA and I approach engine builds differently, Id always give up a few peak hp for greatly increased durability and lower maintenance, 550 peak hp might look impressive, and be good for bragging rights, but 530hp that lasts for years rather than months impresses me far more.
having the fastest car on the strips impressive, but needing to constantly pull it down for inspection and rebuilding it and replacing parts every few months...not so much, theres an old saying "to win races you need to still be running well at the END of the race"
I might not build the fastest engines at the track but most of them last for years, I'd gladly be a tenth slower in the 1/4 mile for 2-5 times longer average engine life expectancy
Last edited by a moderator:
