carburetor intake manifold test

no dyno info just some SBC intake comparison info on the difference in port/runner size etc. in the video above


btw the big block chevy rec port intake below

PFS-53031

these hurricane BBC rec port intakes need minimal porting ,
port matching on both the cylinder head ports and carb gasket before use,
and a 2" open spacer tends to help peak power,

but have proven to produce decent power.

pfs-53031_xl.jpg
 
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https://www.holley.com/products/eng...ake_manifolds/cast/single_plane/parts/300-561
oval port version

rectangle port version
both these intakes if you select a 1000 cfm throttle body and the correct size injectors easily support well over 800 plus hp
 
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of course you have options , like use of an efi tunnel ram ,if you really want to kick ass in the hp wars







 



watch the videos, there's a great many tips you can pick up from each of the videos
and yeah, on single plane intakes where there's no hood clearance issues the Edelbrock 2892 has a few advantages,
especially if your not into doing your own minimal port mods and clean-up work

Ive also seen good results from this JEGS intake, if your on a strict budget
 
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keep in mind the results would change
if any factor like the components,
used in the engine build,
like the compression ratio,
combustion chamber design,
valve sizes
cylinder heads

or cam lift, duration, LSA
or the header design,

or rocker ratio
carb spacer,
carb size,
fuel/air ratio,

was changed
 
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there's several tips in the video, that might help, and related info that might prove helpful, if you know them.
flushing old oil of unknown age or composition, before you run the engine or start tuning may help
personally Id have used or added a pint of marvel mystery oil and a half a can of seafoam during both of those engine oil crud,
flush & change cleaning sessions,

that they used to remove the crud build up on the older engine.
remember the seafoam and MMO, will break loose a bunch of sludge that you will have trapped in the oil filter.
and I would use some standard non synthetic oil on that second flush,
no sense spending big bucks on oil that will be flushed in an hour or so.
simply because you know its going to be drained and pitched after an hours run time along with the oil filter.
(and of course I'd suggest you put on a new oil filter at the start and end of the two engine oil/ solvent engine flush sessions)
oil filters are cheap and frequent oil and filter changes insure a more durable engine

check with AMAZON, your local Wal-Mart and auto parts stores for deals on oil filters and gallons of oil.
I generally buy oil filters in groups of 4-6 minimum.
 
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there's a constant change in your available options, older intake designs, cylinder heads, carburetor's etc.
. get discontinued, (not always a good thing) while newer versions are brought into the market.
generally newer versions are brough out to correct flaws in the original version's,
but in many case's, it's been done to lower production costs, and the older intake is superior.
or the newer intake is produced to take advantage of newer info. (not always the case)
and yes, I've seen a few case's where older intake versions, even discontinued intakes made exceptional power.


not all tunnel ram and dual carb set ups perform well, and yeah, you need to know how to tune.
 
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