Cleaning A Manifold

I would hook up my electric pressure washer & get most off,then get a can of easy off grill & oven cleaner,use that & hit with the washer again.May have to do it a couple of times.
 
I’m not concerned with the exterior, it’s the inside runners. I’m thinking of the rust inside.
 
the sand blaster works great on the inside of the runners also,
just be sure to pressure wash it after sandblasting,
then high pressure air nozzle, and use a heat gun to dry it and paint it
 
Will the blaster really get all the way through the runners? I have what is needed, might as well try it.
Pp I was going to use a storage tub and fill it to cover the top of the intake with white vinegar or use CLR. I’ve seen CLR and water clean all the parts of 4 cylinder engine (after degreaser is used first of course), but only heard about white vinegar used for cleaning rust. The rust remover sold for automotive use is too expensive and I don’t want to deal with removing that black residue it leaves behind especially on something like an intake manifold.
 
Brian would say to soak it in Evapo Rust Remover. I have seen pics of the parts he has done and they look new
after the soaking.

Here are a couple pics of the intake he was offering up to you when you were looking..They were soak in the
Evapo rust Remover....
IMG_1635.JPG IMG_1636.JPG
 
Will the blaster really get all the way through the runners? I have what is needed, might as well try it.
Pp I was going to use a storage tub and fill it to cover the top of the intake with white vinegar or use CLR. I’ve seen CLR and water clean all the parts of 4 cylinder engine (after degreaser is used first of course), but only heard about white vinegar used for cleaning rust. The rust remover sold for automotive use is too expensive and I don’t want to deal with removing that black residue it leaves behind especially on something like an intake manifold.

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https://por15.com/products/3-step-s...MI8aeYzrGQ8QIVgD2tBh2odAv6EAQYASABEgKoiPD_BwE

POR-15's 3 step process is a cleaner, a metal prep, and the coating. Step 2, the metal prep is actually muriatic acid. They sell a small bottle for a lot of $$$. But you can buy a gallon at Lowes for $17.98. This stuff eats rust and will leave the surface a gray color, like new cast iron.
ma.jpg
 
Muriatic acid was always so cheap, it’s just hydrochloric acid watered down 90%. If you buy it at a pool supplies store it costs less than $7/gal (a few years ago HD sold it for $3.98)
 
Brian would say to soak it in Evapo Rust Remover. I have seen pics of the parts he has done and they look new
after the soaking.

Here are a couple pics of the intake he was offering up to you when you were looking..They were soak in the
Evapo rust Remover....
View attachment 15319 View attachment 15320

This is the way it always works for me, looking everywhere for something and all of a sudden a whole bunch are available. Just this afternoon a junkyard called me back with a 1971 455 4 barrel manifold they found in one of their storage trailers - asking $80. I’m tempted to go get it for obvious reasons but I didn’t spend my time this past year and a half getting rid of all my “treasures” just to start again!
 
JohnHancock,
I’m just thinking out loud for sealing off the openings on top of the intake (carb and Tstat) to flip around and pour in Evapo rust (or the equivalent).
Run a thin bead of RTV around openings and slap on a couple cut-outs from a plastic milk carton? Or amI missing something stupidly simpler?
 
If you can cut a piece of 1X the size of the carb and t stat then drill stud holes and make a gasket then sandwich it in with the wood then it seals and protects the threads
 
I have another question

when I remove the factory air cleaner housing I eliminate the tube from the top of the passenger side valve cover to the small filter inside the old air cleaner housing. Is that just a redundancy to the PVC that comes from the Pan Valley under the front of the intake to the carb base? Or is there a logical reason Pontiac has engineered 2 vents?
 
your vastly over complicating the work required, just sandblast,
pressure clean and paint through all the internal and external surfaces and port openings,
 
PCV system. At WOT it may go backwards from the filler cap, and its normal.
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