cleaning used pistons

grumpyvette

Administrator
Staff member
If you dis-assemble an engine to do a rebuild, one of your first jobs is to make sure you don,t lose or misplace parts,and to carefully label and inspect parts during the dis- Assembly process. so Id advise labeling any smaller component and stamping or tagging any parts or placing them in labeled zip- loc- bags. use of a decent quality carburetor cleaning solvent and a few STIFF nylon brushes can do a great deal to clean parts, ...ID suggest you don,t use a stiff wire brush on any aluminum parts or products like scotch bright scouring pads, as they will require extensive cleaning after they are used to remove the micro abrasives they leave behind or they can in some cases damage parts
light surface rust on connecting rods can be removed with an hour or two soaking in white vinegar


http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html
MOST NEW GUYS WILL FIND THIS VIDEO VERY HELPFUL
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high pressure air can at times be useful for cleaning and drying parts

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=90124

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its usually standard practice to lightly stamp the outward facing rods and rod caps with the cylinder number they will be or are located in and a matched stamped number on the oil pan rail of the block, its also useful to stamp the main caps on one edge and a matched stamped number on the oil pan rail of the block, indicating which direction each main cap faces and its location during the original DIS-assembly process or first engine assembly to prevent potential screw-ups during later builds or refresh builds.
just make the stamped number clearly readable but not deeply stamped as you don,t want to induce potential stress risers that might weaken the connecting rods

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/40-Gallon-Parts-Washer
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I DOUBT THE PISTONS YOU REMOVE WILL LOOK THIS BAD BUT EVEN THESE WOULD LOOK MUCH BETTER AFTER A GOOD SOAK AND CLEANING
you must be careful not to distort the piston surface so soak them in a good carburetor cleaning solvent for about 15 minutes to loosen the baked in varnish like burnt oil.
a 50 caliber ammo can is a good container thats not going to easily tip, or break and its large enough to hold a pair of pistons while they soak, harbor freight sells large pots for cooking that are cheap also, and you can buy one or two dirt cheap in most military surplus stores so you don,t need to listen to the better half bitch about using poison in her cooking pans.
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-st ... 60624.html

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http://www.harborfreight.com/adjustable ... 46526.html
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NEVER USE ON ALUMINUM
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NEVER USE ON ALUMINUM
DO NOT USE A WIRE BRUSH ON PISTONS IT WILL DISTORT THE SURFACE FINNISH VERY QUICKLY
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YOULL NEED GOOD VARNISH AND CARBON SOLVENT, LIKE CARB CLEANER TO LOOSEN CRUD


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YOULL NEED A GOOD RING GROOVE CLEANING TOOL< A BROKEN RING WON,T DO THE JOB NEARLY AS WELL, and THE SOLVENT SOAK SHOULD LOOSEN THE BURNT ON OIL IN 15 MINUTES

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most piston compression rings have a dot on the upper surface to indicate the side designed to face the top of the piston
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ideally the pressure above the piston gets behind the top compression ring and increases the force holding the ring face to the bore surface, noticeably more than the ring tension alone can do.
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http://www.grumpysperformance.com/nov2017/ringgg4.pn[/B][/B]
[B][B]g


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AN ABRASIVE WHEEL on a DRILL ,HELPS GET CRUD OF THE PISTON DOME BUT EVEN A NON-METALLIC BRUSH MUST BE USED WITH CAUTION


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http://www.jegs.com/i/JAZ-Products/547/ ... K/10002/-1
IT HELPS TO KEEP PARTS ORGANIZED AND LABELED
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