current draw

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I assume

you gentlemen are aware that theres three post batteries that allow you to provide 16 volts too the ignition and 12 volts and decent amps to the starter and other systems???

http://www.apexbattery.com/lifeline...=76738023025&gclid=CPeF2Py_rcYCFUUkgQodsqILSw

http://www.batterycentralmall.com/Batteries/16V_Battery/Racing_Battery.html

http://www.dragracingonline.com/technical/v9-battery-3.html

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/interior-electrical/ctrp-0405-16-volt-batteries/
They have a spotty reputation in the drag race world Grumpy 16 volt batteries.
Some guys Love them. Others not.
Lots of failures in past Racers using them.
Pros included.

Have known guys to use.
Failures typucal occur 3 months to 1 year later.
I consider only a Full Drag Race effort with unlimited budget paid in full by Rave sponsors .
 
thanks for that mathieu, makes alot of sense that way... i guess i need to find a more efficient load that draws less current and will do the same work.
 
http://www.deutschconnector.com/

http://www.leashelectronics.com/

Typical Current Loads for Automotive Systems, Lighting and Accessories:
Engine Idling (no lights or accessories on) - 35 to 50 amps. This will vary depending on the number of cylinders (more cylinders draw more power for the fuel injectors and coils), the type of fuel injectors (some draw higher amp loads than others), the type of ignition system (single coil or multi-coil), the amp draw of the PCM, and the fuel pump (the amp draw will be higher with higher pressure systems).

Engine Off (nothing on) - 40 to 50 milliamps (power drain by modules in sleep mode, antitheft system and keyless entry)

Ignition Coil (single oil-filled coil older vehicle) - 3 to 4 amps.

Ignition Coil (single DIS coil newer vehicle) - 5 to 6 amps.

Ignition Coil (coil-on-plug) - 6 amps per coil.

Ignition System (primary circuit) - 6 to 20 amps.

Fuel Injectors - 4 to 6 amps peak, 1 amp hold

Electric Fuel Pump (depends on pressure and flow) - 4 to 12 amps

Electric Cooling Fan (depends on size) - 6 to 30 amps

Headlights (halogen low beam) - 8 to 9 amps per pair

Headlights (halogen high beam) - 9 to 10 amps per pair

Headlights (halogen high and low beams combined) - 17 to 19 amps

Headlights (High Energy Discharge) - 12 to 14 amps during initial start, 7 to 8 amps once bulbs are hot

Headlights (LED) - 0.6 to 1 amps per bulb

Small bulbs (incandescent) - 0.3 to 0.4 amps per bulb

Small bulbs (LED) - 0.04 to 0.06 amps per bulb

Starter Motor - 200 to 350 amps

500 Watt Sound System - 42 amps

Electric Rear Window Defroster - 10 to 20 amps

Windshield wipers - 2 to 10 amps depending on load

Heated Seats - 3 to 4 amps per seat

Power Windows - 3 amps

Electric Power Steering - 2 to 40 amps depending on load

Air Conditioner Compressor Clutch - 2.5 to 5 amps

Heater A/C blower motor (depends on load, size and speed setting) - 2 to 30 amps
 
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for you electrical guru's... is there a way i can run high amp drawing 12v devices with a lesser current? like if i had an electric fan that draws 30amps like a taurus fan, is there a way to lessen that draw on the alternator?
Here is the answer you are looking for. Your example of a 30 amp fan, connected to 14 volts, will use 420 watts (14 x 30). That does not change. And the starting current will be much higher. If you increased the voltage to 18v, then the current draw would go down to 23.33 amps (420 / 18). For another example, if you used 6 volts, then the current draw goes UP to 70 amps (420 /6). The 18 volts would probably burn the fan out in short time. And what about all of your other electrical devices? I suppose there are fan controllers that can vary the speed of the fan by controlling the voltage, but that can get expen$ive.
My vote would be to use a mechanical fan and add an electric that would run only when your engine temps get too high (long idling in summer).
 
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I don't know where Phil has been.
Used to chat Daily.

A few have switched back to mechanical engine fans.
I think they do pull more CFM air than electric fans .
 
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