custom throttle linkage

just a heads up on carburetor linkage
when your setting up your carbs throttle linkage, or when you do a tune up, or change anything on the engine, inspect the throttle linkage, AND its a really good idea to carefully check that the linkage won,t bind, and the throttle return spring or better yet TWO RETURN SPRINGS you use, and clearances to insure the throttle returns to the point the engine will idle won,t bind, and the carbs throttle bores, gaskets, linkage and air cleaners, vacuum hoses won,t prevent free UN-obstructed movement.
this was brought home all to clearly when I went over to a neighbors home garage yesterday.
(who won,t be named because hey, we all make mistakes)
(you might not have all that much trouble figuring it out)

viewtopic.php?f=87&t=3234&p=22125&hilit=ford+fairlane#p22125

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=444&p=20301&hilit=dual+quads#p20301

Luckily for him, he had his ford fairlane hes building up, and just did a cam swap on, up on (4) 12 ton jack stands while he was breaking in the cam, with a large shop fan in front of the car, to keep the engine cool, along with a garden hose dribbling water over the radiator. the car was up on the jack stands so the tires were all off the ground, mostly because he was doing an oil change at the same time.
if the car had been in gear and on the ground he might easily have accidentally hit something when he had a sudden UN-expected problem.
well he started the car and ran it for about 20 minutes to break in the cam, then he shows me he bought a really nice looking single air cleaner thats designed to fit his dual quads. he turns off the engine, takes off the older twin air cleaner assembly's and replaces them with the new single large air cleaner.
he then jumps in the car and starts the engine but as soon as he blipped the throttle the engine started screaming at easily 5000rpm or more, and he starts stomping on the gas,petal to free it up,.... it obvious the throttles being held wide open,.... I reached over and snatched off a couple ignition wires, and the coil wire, from the distributor cap to prevent the engine from being damaged , and he eventually cut the ignition, there was no damage other than a few electrical shocks to my arm, and he swears he almost had a heart attack trying to get the throttle shut.
the problem turned out to be caused, mostly by the new air cleaner
SIMILAR TO THIS
forddual.jpg

and him not checking the throttle linkage which rubbed the larger and lower bottom surface of the air cleaner assembly which held the throttles on the carbs wide open, PLUS in rubbing the lower air cleaner assembly the linkage , had some how caused a carb return spring to pop off the linkage.
now the whole deal took about 5-7 seconds, before we got the engine shut off, and about 30 minutes to add dual return springs and modify the linkage and air cleaner to get the correct non-binding clearance.
Keep in mind the car has run great for months and who would think swapping an air cleaner would cause problems?


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http://www.zoro.com/qa1-male-rod-en...gclid=CJjOk5CKpMgCFY6EaQodpJAABA&gclsrc=aw.ds
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http://www.zoro.com/qa1-female-rod-...gclid=CInnw5aMpMgCFQmnaQodbuwJRQ&gclsrc=aw.ds
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you obviously can,t PUSH a cable so in compound linkage arrangements you use Heim joints and leverage, and threaded rods with Heim joints have the advantage of easy to adjust the length

http://pitstopusa.com/c-133281-chas...s-steel-rod-ends-1-4-male-steel-rod-ends.html

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many hydraulic supply shops sell 48" lengths of strait stainless brake line that can be cut and threaded to accept the male heim joints.
you can easily spend hundreds of dollars on custom made linkage or get creative and fabricate your own design far cheaper, but it takes some careful meassuring and detailed assembly and some thinking to get a near friction free and non-binding structually rigid and strong design

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http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/99007.900.htm
 
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Had the throttle stick on me when I was a teenager in 64 Nova (13.03 sec 1/4 mile). I was pulling out of a gas station about a block away from a 4 lane intersection with a light. When I stood on it, it hung open. Luckily I immediately went to the ignition key and shut it down. Don't remember the problem now, but I have not forgotten that event to this day.

 
Throttle linkage sticking on race cars still happens.
Drag race or Circle track racing dirt track I have wintnessed.
Should be checked after every race.
On street at least once a month.

Modern drive by wire systems can fail too.
Have seen them stick part throttle open & WOT.
I don't trust electronic drive by wire.
 
Double Aught said:
My bud and I just got through fabricating a hybrid throttle linkage for my 1968 Impala SS restomod. I have a 94 Z28 LT1 installed and needed to figure out how to utilize the factory 1968 throttle linkage coming off the firewall with the modern LT1 engine. The challenge to over come was the fact that the LT1 uses a cable that hooks into the throttle body linkage and goes through the firewall and attaches directly to the accelerator pedal. Old school, carburetor style linkage is completely different. However, that can be overcome with a little ingenuity. My friend and I went to a local u-pull-it yard and found that the throttle cables are almost identical on most early 90's GM products. We picked out two cables, one from a V6 fbody and the other, a mystery donor car. The piece we used was pulled by my buddy and I don't even know what car he got it from, but it snapped right in to the factory LT1 throttle cable bracket. The mystery donor car cable was nearly twice as long, giving us a lot to work with, in case we cut it too long. On the way home from the wrecking yard, we stopped at the local Ace Hardware and picked up Ace part number 50263 Ferrule/Stops 1/16". (see attached pic) Other parts used were sourced from my nuts/bolts stash which included two washers, one bolt (same diameter as the factory Impala linkage arm), one nylock nut and a spacer that we looped the cable around. So, we measure the cable at full-throttle and make the cut. Got it right the first time. We installed the ferrule, measured and marked the cable, and removed the entire cable assembly from the engine. We snugged it up and then following the instructions provided with the ferrules, we secured the ferrule to the cable. We re-installed the cable and after double-checking pedal movement and throttle blade position, we zip-tied the cable to the factory fuel line bracket shown in the pic and called it finished. This shows that folks don't need to spend hundreds of dollars on an after-market cable and you can end up with a factory-looking cable assembly for a total of around five dollars.
68Throttlelinkage.jpg
 
I recently got questioned about how to proceed when a guy texted me saying that the total distance that his throttle cable moved was about 1.6" from the fully up and un-touched location to the fully depressed location of the gas petal, and he had measured the distance the throttle linkage had to travel and it would require a bit over 2.2" from idle to the fully open position.
while Ive seen many similar problems with the original throttle linkage, this seems to be a case of someone who is just un-able to think and fabricate a custom throttle linkage.
there are literally hundreds of custom aftermarket brackets cables pulleys throttle petal assemblies available, even fully independent hydraulic throttle assemblies
throttlss.jpg

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Carburetor+Brackets+&+Linkage/N1069/C0261.oap

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Street-Hot-...-Gas-Pedal-24-SS-Throttle-Cable-/140922018630

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/carburetor-linkage-kits

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2004/08/ThrottleLinkage/

https://www.google.com/search?q=cus...al+assembly&tbm=shop&spd=11459988363164030536

http://www.jegs.com/c/Steering-Suspension_Pedals-Components/11327/10002/-1

https://www.google.com/search?q=hydraulic+throttle+linkage&tbm=isch&imgil=Q27JJ0pUwV8AQM%3A%3BG6EER_9qKgXLiM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.cncbrakes.com%252FProduct.aspx%253Fgrp%25253Dhpp%252526subgrp%25253D2w%252526series%25253D112%252526subseries%25253D&source=iu&pf=m&fir=Q27JJ0pUwV8AQM%3A%2CG6EER_9qKgXLiM%2C_&usg=__zlMOaZ84Ry0CPkGMZyCBxvxTNmc=&biw=1360&bih=638&ved=0ahUKEwjm8ufJlYzUAhXJhVQKHRBsBc4QyjcIfA&ei=wmQnWeaJI8mL0gKQ2JXwDA#imgrc=Q27JJ0pUwV8AQM:

https://www.google.com/search?q=hydraulic+throttle+linkage&tbm=isch&imgil=smXNmjNWfuczTM%3A%3BIT-Q1k49WDqm7M%3Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.mico.com%252Fstore%252Fthrottle-controls&source=iu&pf=m&fir=smXNmjNWfuczTM%3A%2CIT-Q1k49WDqm7M%2C_&usg=__ySRRZ0kUNQFMdmP6yXeZT0PFzwY=&biw=1360&bih=638&ved=0ahUKEwjm8ufJlYzUAhXJhVQKHRBsBc4QyjcIfA&ei=wmQnWeaJI8mL0gKQ2JXwDA#imgrc=smXNmjNWfuczTM:


http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance-Products/JEGS-Throttle-Cables-and-Hardware/1225480/10002/-1

http://www.jbugs.com/product/4861.h...UF7IhO83RtHP6zwfjMuqJWDI0TG7hW5Ac9hoC6kfw_wcB

http://www.ephotomotion.com/914engine/page42.html

 
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