Cutoff Saw

Indycars

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Staff member

I'm wanting to build this transmission holding fixture, but I'm finding it hard to get a decent angle cut with a hacksaw or jig saw. So I'm thinking about purchasing some type of cutoff saw. It seems to me that this is something that I would use alot in the future during any kind of fabrication. Knowing it's likely that I will have to remove the transmission a 2nd or 3rd time, I might as well build something to hold it now, instead of for the last time I have it out.

I have a cheap 3-wheel engine stand that I can devote to this project.




I've found these that range from $264 to about $450, but the Milwaukee seems to be well liked and $44 cheaper that the DeWalt.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200326857
$265
Northern Industrial RP2814A



http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-6190-20 ... cutoff+saw
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200486465
$405
Milwaukee 6190-20



http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-6190-20 ... cutoff+saw
$448
DW872



I would really like to stay away from the ABRASIVE type saw and go to the COLD CUT or DRY CUT type of saw. The abrasive say creates a bigger mess, more noise and a cut that has more burrs.

Does anyone have any experiences or tips when purchasing a cutoff saw???



----------------------------------------------------------------------
EDIT: For the "As Built" drawing of the transmission holding fixture and
more info use this link.


viewtopic.php?f=71&t=7219

 

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heres an older post thats related (above) I totally agree that a compound miter saw is a great tool to have , especially if you do a good deal of fabrication work, the problem I have so far is that easily 90% of the saws Ive checked out are designed for cutting wood and Im not sure they will work on metal, or what the correct blades will be and finding a compound miter saw with a precision vise for the material to be cut is proving difficult also.
I sure don,t care to drop $370-$900 on a good quality compound miter saw and find out its not doing the job or eating expensive blades every week or so, and I fabricate enough headers and exhaust systems that it would be a huge asset

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TX1UPO?tag=vs-auto-convert-amazon-20

 
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I have one of those cut-off style saw its a cheap mastercraft and omg its really not accurate.
The peened/pressed angle inletting marking are totally out, if you set for 90° cut its really off..
 
mathd said:
I have one of those cut-off style saw its a cheap mastercraft and omg its really not accurate.
The peened/pressed angle inletting marking are totally out, if you set for 90° cut its really off..

You have a cold cut type of saw or is it an abrasive type cutoff saw??? What model of mastercraft?

 
Indycars said:
mathd said:
I have one of those cut-off style saw its a cheap mastercraft and omg its really not accurate.
The peened/pressed angle inletting marking are totally out, if you set for 90° cut its really off..

You have a cold cut type of saw or is it an abrasive type cutoff saw??? What model of mastercraft?

I have this model
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6 ... ?locale=en
It is a real POS in all honesty, we dont use it much if we use it at all.
 

They don't really give you enough info to say for sure, but from the picture it looks to be an Abrasive type cutoff saw.
 

I ran by our local Northern Tool store in OKC to see if they had the Milwaukee 6190-20 in stock. I wanted to see what the vise on this model looked like. They didn't have it, but they had the 6180-20 in stock. Now this is the ABRASIVE cutoff saw that sell for $200.

This is the vise from the 6180-20:



I would hope that the $400 Milwaukee 6190-20 would have the vise.

Pictures were taken with my iPhone and the saw was under a shelf with little light.

 

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I needed some steel tubing for the transmission holding fixture, so I went by the scrap iron
place. It's been 30 years or more since I've been there, but they still sell to the public. You just
wander around in an area set aside for the steel they want to sell you.

I bought 2 stick of 61 inch tubing with the dimension shown below. There was probably 20-30
stick available. They charge $0.30/ lb, I had 27 lbs at a cost of $9.10. You weigh whatever you
find yourself and then go inside and tell them. Kinda on the honor system, but I bet they are
pretty good at guessing the weight and would know if you were trying to get away with much.



Can anyone tell me if I'm correct, is this seamless DRW tubing ??? Anything else we can tell
about this tubing?



http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tube_%28fl ... veyance%29

There are three classes of manufactured tubing: seamless, as-welded or electric resistant
welded (ERW), and drawn-over-mandrel (DOM).

 

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