do I need to get a milder cam??

grumpyvette

Administrator
Staff member
" hey grumpyvette??
has 350 engine. It does not have much torque at low RPM's, because of too rough cam. At high RPM's the car goes - and fast! Also the engine bangs in the exhaust pipes during exceleration. I have adjusted the distributor timing, it helps a little bit but not totally. Idle is waving up and down a little bit.

The whole set up is: 350 engine, TH400 with 2400 torque converter. Rear end ratio is 3.08 posi. Engine has 600 cfm carburetor, Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake, HEI distributor and aluminum heads. Rocker arms are Scorpion Racing with 1.5 lift. Headers and 2,5 inch exhaust.

Question 1: What would be the appropriate cam for this set up? I want the torque range to be wide, starting from 1000-1500 RPM's. I looked Comp Cams XE256H. Any comment for that one? Link to Comp cam.

Question 2: Does the engine bangs in the exhaust pipe because of the cam? Or wrong timing advance or maybe something else?"





http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam- ... id=84&sb=2

assuming your engines got about a 9:1 compression ratio and given the very limited info the cam you listed seems to be a decent choice,but it would sure help to know a good deal more about the combo, and even with that mild cam a 3.45:1-3.90:1 rear gear would sure help, as would having the time to do a few tests on your level of tune and diagnosing and mechanical issues.

you can,t know if your problems ignition timing, valve adjustment or carburetor related without knowing exactly what your currently dealing with, you need to test and verify before making changes and then make each change separately and keep notes, and verify results, a timing light and verifying TDC and a timing tape on your damper is a ood place to start, knowing how to read plugs and having a vacuum gauge, multi meter and doing a compression test , adjusting the valves checking fuel pressure float levels verify the distributor gear is in good shape, verify the advance curves smooth and consistent, verify the ignition wire resistance and a few other basic tests sure helps and a few other basic tests sure helps

its been my experience that most guys think most problems can be solved with parts swaps, nw thats sometimes true, but in many cases stepping back, taking a few deep breaths and approaching the problem with a slow methodical step by step procedure can locate and isolate the source of the engine running less than ideally.
a simple step-by- step isolate and verify approach help, even when your 100% sure youve done things correctly.

extreme example, one of my buddies installed a radical 4/7 swap cam and after breaking it in the car ran like crap, it was a full two hours before he realized he had used the standard 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 firing order when he broke in the cam and he was trying to get it to run smoothly with the wong firing order



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