Electrical wiring - estimated costs are shocking

chromebumpers

solid fixture here in the forum
Staff member
I'm trying to find a shop to make up all wiring harnesses for the 72 Suburban. There is a lot more to wiring an LS motor than a Gen I motor. There is an engine management wire harness that came with the new motor but with so many changes It will look cleaner if the new harness is customized for the new application.
The estimates are over $7,000. I can wire a pretty good size house for that kind of money!
 
THATS WHY YOU BUY THE CONNECTORS TOOLS WIRE AND LEARN TO WIRE THE CAR YOURSELF!
anytime you price out a car custom wire harness youll be in shock at the absolute absurd prices quoted.
personally Id hit the local salvage yards Id bet you could negotiate the price of a complete wire harness from a fairly new truck for under $200
when I got quotes on wiring my shop .. read this link
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/how-to-wire-a-shop.5/

http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/AutomotiveElectricalConnectors.htm
now Ive wired more than a few cars
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/sources-for-auto-elecrtrical-connectors.3105/

https://www.cableorganizer.com/shrinkflex-shielded-2-1/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-engine-harness-integration.11148/#post-49939

http://www.repairconnector.com/

http://www.delcity.net/store/Wire-C...es/r_IS1028?&gclid=CJzJz8nJzckCFQaJaQodyVQJHA

http://www.wiringproducts.com/general-motors-connectors-sockets

if you work around older cars for awhile your sure to notice a great many problems can be traced back to faulty, corroded or broken electrical connections, sockets and connectors or fuses ans wiring that need to be repaired or replaced, especially in moist areas, and in many cases youll be far ahead to just buy a new connector and carefully solder it in and use shrink tubing over the splice
wirecar.jpg

having a wire roll caddy , thats easy to access or fabricating one for working around the cars helpful
I can easily see where some simple fabrication skills, some careful measuring and a bit of rough design work on a pad with a ruler and pencil and a quick trip to harbor freight and home depot, to buy a few components , a power drill, a few bits screws and some 1/2" conduit ,a couple 2 foot long sections of 2" angle aluminum,could rather easily result in a rather well designed electrical wire spool holder rack of several types depending on your shops needs

http://www.globalindustrial.com/g/stora ... pool-racks
60752.jpg

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/stora ... ddy-RT4-8S
BRN_RT4-8S.jpg

automotive electrical connectors and related info

THIS IS A GOOD VALUE
163443.jpg


https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200356620_200356620?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Electrical > Terminal Kits + Organizers&utm_campaign=Northern Industrial Tools&utm_content=163443&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIq4Gj3qeW2AIVVrXACh3l2QRxEAYYCCABEgK4afD_BwE



http://repairconnector.com/



16dbd753-4d4c-40ea-9451-0dbc27426fe0_300.jpg

http://www.homedepot.com/s/wire+stripper?NCNI-5
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-Stripm ... 819657-_-N
70222843_large.jpg

http://www.alliedelec.com/search/produc ... U=70222843
70222844_large.jpg


http://www.sears.com/craftsman-professional-dual-heat-soldering-gun/p-00927320000P

soldergunm.png
 
Last edited:
I can't pay that much and although I have all the tools and a likely all the wire I'll ever need,
I Don't have the ability to ad any more physical workload. The more I try to do anything it's 4X more time recuperating. My mind says I'm only 20 so keep going, my body says "stop, your dead already!"
This is not what I envisioned when I came up with this idea.
 
Is the original wiring in the burb still OK? Have you checked into buying a stand alone harness for the new engine?
 
There's only a few wires for the period engine burb while there are 53 wires in the LS motor. I can't use anywhere near that many. I want to get the cleanest look possible without going Boyd Coddington over it.
It's 6 major wire harnesses on the last generation GM trucks. I just want engine management, front end electrical, rear end electrical and gauge wiring. I can't go into the complicated braking/tracking systems because of time and money.
 
Try Ron Francis , Haywire, or Holley. Bet they have what you need or will come up with one for less than $7.000.00.
 
I found a shop that will do the job to order, no installation. Now I have to do my homework on them

Motor harness . . . . . . . .$763
Forward lights . . . . . . . .$289
Rear lights . . . . . . . . . . . $312
Dash with new instrumentation
wiring only . . . . . . .... . $388
 
Thanks T-Test,
Ron Francis are the guys that wired my home for home invasion, invisible fence and distant electric gates, they're only an hour away. I never thought of them doing this type of job. I put calls into the other 2 companies.
 
I called the people back that gave me that high price, just to be fair and ask if there were any mistakes?
The estimator had this to say and I quote "If you must question our prices you obviously can't afford to have this done by professionals."
I really just wanted to hang up but I just had one thing to say, "When I find a professional I won't have any questions!"

I don't get why people have to be like that, I didn't provoke him in the least
 
there are A#$%^& and SNOBS in most professions, , and they obviously know they are absurdly over priced if they respond in that way!
http://www.deutschconnector.com/



http://www.leashelectronics.com/
M22759/16 Tefzel Wire
Insulation: Ethylene-Tetrafluoroethylene (ETFE)
Tin Plated Copper Conductor
Voltage Rating:
600 Volts
Temperature: 150°C


Standard wall ethylene-tetrafluoroehtylene (ETFE) insulation ( also known as Tefzel ) designed for aerospace applications where weight, dimensional tolerance, and mechanical durability are required. This wire exhibits high chemical and radiation resistance. The tin plated copper conductor offers a cost savings over the silver plated high strength copper alloy which is available on M22759/17.
wiremilt.png
 
Last edited:
Back
Top