Electrical Wiring for a TBucket


At this time I think this is my final drawing, except for the AQ-1 that will
have it's own schematic.

Comments???




Download the 2 page FlexALite Manual below:




 

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I thought the T was rewired in 2014 Rick.
Have you tuned the carburator ?
HOME TOWN STREET RACE NATIONALS COMING UP IN OKLAHOMA AGAIN FOR YOU.
 
Probably want to re-examine the horn and fuel pump circuits. Both items usually go direct to ground on the - side with the relays supplying power to the + side of the accessory. Also horn function is not usually dependant on switched power so it can function without the key in the on position.
 
NOT A TA said:
Probably want to re-examine the horn and fuel pump circuits. Both items usually go direct to ground on the - side with the relays supplying power to the + side of the accessory. Also horn function is not usually dependant on switched power so it can function without the key in the on position.

The horn is connected to "Always On Power", the fuse panel is not shown thou.

Does this look better?



 

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You have the relay coil on always on power but not the power for the relay/horn its on switched power.
You could tie 86 and 87 together and run them to always on power distribution block with short wire as much as you can. then run a grounding wire/switch on pin 85.
This way, in case of severe accident, you only have to worry about that one single wire not breaking to keep the horn running not 3 of them(the one running form the relay to the horn, so protect it well and have it a bit longer for stretch).. The switch wires are used as ground/signal in this configuration, so if it short to chassis it complete the loop and just keep the horn running(better that no horn at all). the big power wire usually dont break as easily as small wires. So we try to use the small wires as ground/signal for this kind of stuff(it also benefit for corrosion protection too, ever notice how its always the positive wire that corrode first? :) ).
and It also keep the small wire short, since you can just ground the other side of the horn switch. Cheaper and safer.

Yeah i know its probably overkill, but just saying.
 
mathd said:
1.) You have the relay coil on always on power but not the power for the relay/horn its on switched power.

2.) You could tie 86 and 87 together and run them to always on power distribution block with short wire as much as you can. then run a grounding wire/switch on pin 85.

3.) This way, in case of severe accident, you only have to worry about that one single wire not breaking to keep the horn running not 3 of them(the one running form the relay to the horn, so protect it well and have it a bit longer for stretch).. The switch wires are used as ground/signal in this configuration, so if it short to chassis it complete the loop and just keep the horn running(better that no horn at all). the big power wire usually dont break as easily as small wires. So we try to use the small wires as ground/signal for this kind of stuff(it also benefit for corrosion protection too, ever notice how its always the positive wire that corrode first? :) ).
and It also keep the small wire short, since you can just ground the other side of the horn switch. Cheaper and safer.

Yeah i know its probably overkill, but just saying.

1.) I see what you are saying, you are right!

2.) I think I've essentially done what you have suggested ...... right ???

3.) Thanks for the background info on WHY you do it this way!!!



Appreciate the help, thanks!

 

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Dont feel forced to do it as i suggest.
Am just thinking out loud. If you like the idea or not its cool :cool:

The diagram show what i was saying :)
 
mathd said:
Dont feel forced to do it as i suggest.
Am just thinking out load. If you like the idea or not its cool :cool:

The diagram show what i was saying :)

Appreciate that comment Mathieu! If you think about it, it becomes obvious
that I can't do as everyone suggests. Some don't see it that way thou.

Thanks for the help!!!

 

Yesterday I circled the car for a few hours, and finally got the courage to strip
out almost all the wiring. I left one wire in the frame on each side to pull the new
wire in with.

Before pulling any wire I needed an organized way to obtain length of each new
wire, hence the reason the build a wire dispenser. Got some ideas from Google
images and went to Lowes. Looked at the PVC and then went down to the storage
containers. I bought one 100 qt clear storage container and three 3/4" x 48"
dowel rods.

Drilled three, 3/4" holes in each end of the container with a hole saw, worked
good. The rods are tight and won't walk around while I'm pulling new wire. Then
I drilled twenty-seven, 1/4" holes for the wire to come out the long side. Lowes
doesn't show the 99 quart model, but it looks the same as this 66 quart model.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_336492-62860-71 ... 41164&Ntt=

Total cost was $30.





 

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I love the rather neat easy access , and can easily see where having something like that handy in the shop would be a great thing to have , but I get involved in wiring jobs fairly frequently and I doubt a reel of wire less than 150 ft long in any one color or gauge would last very long, in my shop.
I generally buy the 500 ft reels, and can,t remember using anything other than 12 GA and 10GA. and I generally have a wide selection of crimp and solder on wire ends.
I don,t doubt for a second that having a set-up like that would be far superior to having individual reels rolling around the shop.

https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/1408-how-to-wire-your-own-race-car/

related
http://www.harborfreight.com/400-ft-wir ... 61527.html
16dbd753-4d4c-40ea-9451-0dbc27426fe0_300.jpg

http://www.homedepot.com/s/wire+stripper?NCNI-5
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-Stripm ... 819657-_-N
70222843_large.jpg

http://www.alliedelec.com/search/produc ... U=70222843
70222844_large.jpg

http://www.alliedelec.com/search/produc ... U=70222844
 
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grumpyvette said:
I generally buy the 500 ft reels, and can,t remember using anything other than 12 GA and 10GA.

You must rewire a car every month then!!! :D

When I get my next order of wire in, I will have about 2200 feet of wire in
different colors and 4 different sizes.

 
i use mostly 10ga and 14ga, for relay coils or anything else that is low power i use 16 or 18.. only exception is for ham radio i use 12 ga because thats what the manual call for and i have to use the 12ga too :D ..
Nice setup with the reels :O. you beat me to it :mrgreen:
 

I've been holding off ordering more wire and terminals from DelCity.com, because
they sometimes send me an email with 15% off. But I was out of time and decided
to go ahead with my order. When I got the website, EVERYTHING was 20% off ......
I must be living right!!!

I ordered four more 100 foot reels of 16 AWG, this will give me all seven possible
colors in both 16 and 14 AWG. I also got some terminals and shrink tubing etc.

http://www.delcity.net/



 

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I can easily see where some simple fabrication skills, some careful measuring and a bit of rough design work on a pad with a ruler and pencil and a quick trip to harbor freight and home depot, to buy a few components , a power drill, a few bits screws and some 1/2" conduit ,a couple 2 foot long sections of 2" angle aluminum,could rather easily result in a rather well designed electrical wire spool holder rack of several types depending on your shops needs

http://www.globalindustrial.com/g/stora ... pool-racks
60752.jpg

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/stora ... ddy-RT4-8S
BRN_RT4-8S.jpg


http://www.harborfreight.com/24-inch-x- ... -5770.html
23430.jpg

http://www.harborfreight.com/material-h ... 68895.html
20639.jpg

http://www.harborfreight.com/50-piece-l ... 67544.html
19880.jpg

19882.jpg
 
Rick, now I understand why you have your signature! "Too much is just enough!!!"

You've got more wire than I keep in stock and I do a lot of wiring jobs!
 
NOT A TA said:
Rick, now I understand why you have your signature! "Too much is just enough!!!"

You've got more wire than I keep in stock and I do a lot of wiring jobs!

I want the whole car wired in the same type of wire..... GXL Cross Linked
Insulation wire. If I don't have what I need I will end up taking a short cut
that I didn't want to do. AFAIK, you can't buy that type of wire locally.

Sometimes even that is not enough !!! :D :p

 
Im sure looking forward too seeing the T-bucket back up in functional shape and perhaps we can see you get a few passes on a 1/4 mile with an et and top speed, then work on getting the engine tuned and suspension set up and correctly adjusted?
Frank-Mazi-T-Bucket-wheelstand.jpg
 

Did you take that picture, it is black & white??? :D

I'm certainly working to get it functional again, I Do Not want to go another
summer without driving. It's too late to back up now, I've already ripped most
of the wiring out of the car now. Forward is the only way now!!!!!!!!! :p

 
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