engine stands

grumpyvette

Administrator
Staff member
now heres something you probably don,t want to spend a fortune on, but you better think it thru...if it tips or brakes you could be PERMANENTLY
CRIPPLED


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... umber=4420

heres a vaugely similar non-foldup design

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=614&p=818#p818

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=2986&p=7842&hilit=+engine+stand#p7842

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/engine-stand-bolt-sizes.8443/#post-29605

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=1018&p=3006&hilit=stand+wheels#p3006

related info

image_217.jpg

a trip to the emergency room waiting on your first stupid move

image_1987.jpg

easily fold-able if not used


144850_lg.jpg

a good basic low cost ,stable stand for very little cash out lay

47304.gif

standmodg.jpg

now as I pointed out previously in a different thread,
swapping to much better quality and taller set of swivel caster wheels, that will be far superior too the small flimsy steel roller casters,
that came on the engine crane, or engine stand,
allows the engine stands to easily roll under the crane legs,
or
the engine crane legs to scoot under the taller engine stand legs,
allowing an easy engine transfer.

http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-cus ... 46819.html
1284.jpg

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=1018
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200337094_200337094
prices, sizes and weight carry capacity, and having brakes built into the design of the caster, vary so shop carefully
189905.jpg


yes its going to add some expense, (about $80 if you catch these on sale) but if you add the optional larger casters to an engine stand it allows you to maneuver the legs of the stand so they roll over the crane


Ive got several of these in the shop and they support a bbc just fine!
these also work ok

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200305217_200305217

heres a slightly better option

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/ ... uct%20Page

the cheaper (T) design base on the cheaper stands are not NEARLY as stable, you might want to consider welding on a 4 foot section of 2" x 3" box steel and adding two casters to the end of the center leg but by that time you'll quickly see buying the better 2000 lb stands less work/bother and reasonably priced

this design ought to come with a mercury switch and auto dialer for the emergency room as it will tip or flip with almost no effort , an excellent way to be seriously injured, no matter how strong you are your NEVER going to be able to prevent a V8 from falling once its starts falling unexpectedly when your tightening bolts or turning the block, so if you buy something similar to this expect to get hurt its only a matter of time

32915.gif

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=32915
as a few of you gentlemen know, I recently replaced the small steel wheels on my engine crane with much nicer swivel wheels of about 8" diam.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=41563

41563.gif


these are very similar to what I used (6) of on the engine crane, having 6 large diam. CASTERS rather than 4 small casters and two wheels that don,t change direction is a HUGE IMPROVEMENT in how easily the engine crane moves once an engines suspended from it,
heres a semi- decent shop crane, for the money, most of the cheaper cranes , you commonly see advertised at auto parts stores and at HF are dangerous or total junk
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=35915
35915.gif


well, it was an obvious improvement so I said to myself why stop there??
I put a set of 4 similar swivel casters on one of the shops engine stands and I just can,t believe it took so long for me to do that or how big of an improvement it was!!
you get so used to having an engine stand that's a TOTAL P.I.T.A. to move around the shop (AND I selected some of the easier to move stands) that once you do this mod your thinking how obviously stupid it is not to do it to all the engine stands in t6he shop.....so as finances and time allow Ill convert the other 4 engine stands not quite as good as good sex but its so much better than before I can,t imagine why I didn,t do this 35 years ago:D
I HAD TO MOVE A FEW ENGINES AROUND TODAY IN THE SHOP, I can,t begin to tell you guys how much I was pleased with those engine stands Id recently installed the 8" swivel casters on! Ive managed to convert all but one at this point to the 8" swivel casters from the 2.5" metal rollers that were previously installed from the original manufacturer, and the difference in ease of movement is truly amazing! If you've ever tried to move a BBC or HEMI on a standard engine stand you know that at 600-800lbs they don,t move easily, and the factory engine stands only have casters on one end and single directional rollers on the other end making them a P.I.T.A. to move in some situations.
I should have done that simply mod YEARS AGO
the old small casters on those HF engine stands simply unbolt, I used (2) 7/16" thread 3" square U-bolts to lock each of the NEW LARGER swivel casters into place then WELDED the flange to the engine stand TOO,and left the (2) 7/16" thread 3" square U-bolts in place
REMEMBER I may be UNDER that engine at some point and its best to be really sure the casters can,t come loose
btw youll need to drill out the mount holes just a bit to use the (2) 7/16" thread 3" square U-bolts because the holes are neither totally round or big enought and they are off set about 1/16" in un-touched form

the two outer leg casters mount about 1/4" in from the ends the two rear casters were mounted to have the u-bolts stradle and place the flange dirrectly under the junction of the main legs, the diagonal braces and the rear cross brace on both sides, then welded
 
Last edited by a moderator:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/ ... _200349940

northern tool has geared head stands for $230

btw if your storing an engine thats partly assembled for any length of time spray the clean surfaces down with marvel mystery oil and use two plastic trash bags and DUCT tape to seal it up during down times, that goes an amazing way toward preventing rust,
if its a used engine your storing,, once its on the stand, drain the oil, then turn it over several times to drain all the coolant, and refill it with about 7 qts of oil to insure the crank and bearings are covered,cover it with a couple plastic trash bags but don,t seal it until your 100% sure no moisture remains in the block, remove the spark plugs and squirt oil in each cylinder then turn the engine over several times to lube the rings and upper cylinders, back off the rockers to reduce the valve spring strain on the valve train, then loosely replace the plugs finger tight, once its been sitting for a month or so you can re-oil the valve train and re-oil the upper cylinders and use duct tape to seal the trash bags


viewtopic.php?f=50&t=614&p=818#p818
 
Back
Top