Engine Tick When Warm

[bytor]

no! roller lifters are not the same and swapping out to new roller lifters on that cylinder, will be beneficial as it will have less wear and fatigue issues with a new lifter roller

Ok, thanks,

Do you recommend disassembling the new lifters, cleaning them and look for shavings left behind during manufacturing?

 

[grumpyvette]

Ive done that (dis-assembly and inspection) dozens of times with dozens of sets ,of lifters, and truthfully Ive only found crud internally very rarely, Id say your 99% safe just soaking it in MMO for 30 min before install, Ive used mostly
CRANE,
http://www.cranecams.com/userfiles/file/294-295.pdf
MOREL ,
http://www.straubtechnologies.com/hydraulic-roller/

CROWER
http://www.crower.com/lifters-roller/

and

ERSON lifters

http://www.usaperform.com/solid-roller- ... 8_249.html

 

[bytor]

Installed the new lifters and got everything buttoned back up. Not much drama. Started the engine up and let it reach operating temp and adjusted the valves with the engine running. Nice and quiet, the tick seems to be gone. Then just as I finished the last valve, I noticed a small puddle of coolant under the car. Crap, thermostat gasket leaking. I installed one of these because I have had good luck with them in the past.



Guess I’ll go with what the service manual calls for just a 1/16 bead of RTV, no gasket. Once repaired, I’m going to adjust the valves one more time.

Hey Grumpy, in this link I noticed and interesting initial timing recommendation.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/corp-0312-l98-tuned-port-intake/repair.html
On photo 25 of 27 they talk about setting the initial timing to 0-2 degrees. That doesn’t sound right does it? Doing this would reduce your max timing as the ECU is doing it’s calculations off of 6* initial as a base. Whats your thoughts?

“Once all was completed, we fired the engine and set the timing. Since we marked the distributor, it was close to right-on, but we used a timing light to make it perfect. GM recommends 6 degrees if initial timing for '85-'88 cars, but Chris sets them to 0-2 degrees. He says they run smoother and have better low-end torque. The '89 and newer L98s were designed to run with more timing. We also drained the oil and installed a new filter and oil.”

 

[87vette81big]

Check the TPI Thermostat housing Bytor. It may have a hairline crack on the flat machined base side.
It happened to me.
Replaced with another nice used part.
I am still using that Fel Pro Race RACE T-stat housing gasket on my car.
Has been leak free since 2009.

Set base ignition timing to 6. degrees BTDC Bytor.
I set mine to 8 DBTC.
If I drop octane booster in the tank to get 100 octane I run 11-12 degrees BTDC.

 

[bytor]

Another potential issue I noticed while I had things dissembled was the fuel 'in' line to the fuel rail has a ding in it just after the fuel line connector at the front. (Location in yellow depicted in the pic below. I'll get a picture of my fuel rail up later)



I don't think it's causing any issues but it looks like if I wanted to fix it I would need to replace the entire fuel rail as the fuel line is pressed into the rail. Or so it seems.

 

[grumpyvette]

Almost every one of those OEM fuel rail & fuel line set ups ON A TPI OR LT! has by this time had some damage and almost all of them work and function reasonably well in spite of what is more than likely mostly cosmetic rather that true mechanical damage in that its un-likely to significantly restrict fuel flow

verify the fuel pressure with a fuel gauge connected to the shrader valve on your TPI fuel rails,

GM part number for the complete fuel rail o-ring kit is 17111696

if your TPI FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR DIAPHRAGM LEAKS youll find it difficult or impossible to be starting your car

heres a link to the correct o-rings they are light blue
NAPA sells them at times
all the o-rings on the fuel rails and injectors need to be dipped in thin oil so they insert and slide into place with less friction, this tends to greatly reduce the chance of the o-rings ripping, and yes you need the correct o-rings that fit correctly to begin with if you expect the rings to seal correctly
http://tpiparts.net/inc/sdetail/10950/300

17113544 - Injector Seals
17111696 - O-Ring Kit
22514722 - Fuel Inlet O-Ring
22516256 - Fuel Inlet O-Ring


The above part numbers provided me with all of the seals shown below circled in red. I would recommend that you replace these seals whenever you service your TPI system. Remember, you've got gasoline under about 45 pounds of pressure flowing through the fuel rails etc. A leak could easily catch fire and cost you your car.

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[87vette81big]

It will be OK Bytor.
Only Cosmetic as Grumpy said.

 

[bytor]

Check the TPI Thermostat housing Bytor. It may have a hairline crack on the flat machined base side.
It happened to me.

You were spot on 87vette81big, I have a crack right behind the front mounting bolt running about 1/4 inch around the upper section of the flange.

 

[grumpyvette]

Check the TPI Thermostat housing Bytor. It may have a hairline crack on the flat machined base side.
It happened to me.

You were spot on 87vette81big, I have a crack right behind the front mounting bolt running about 1/4 inch around the upper section of the flange.

THAT IS EASILY REPAIRED BY TIG WELDING (BEST)
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ALUMAWELD (GOOD)
viewtopic.php?f=60&t=851&p=1318&hilit=alumaweld#p1318
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OR IN SOME LIMITED CASES

J&B WELD EPOXY (FUNCTIONAL)