external electric driver oil pump to prelube engine after long storage

racprops

Well-Known Member
OK I know this is thought as silly and not needed, BUT this van is most likely to sit and rust 70 to 80% of the time.

It is a big fat RV van with a major drinking problem and NOT at all suited for city driving, it is a long distance runner, not a sprinter.

SO I am looking in the idea of an external electric driver oil pump to prelube it before firing her up after months of sitting.

So any ideas and better examples of such set ups??

Rich
 

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www.speedwaymotors.com

Melling MPL-201 Engine Oil Pump Primer

Melling Engine Oil Priming Tank was developed as a way for engine builders to safely pre-prime the engine with oil prior to initial engine startup. The priming tank, when filled with clean oil and air pressure pumps oil into all of the critical areas of the new engine quickly and safely.
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https://www.melling.com/videos/how-to-prime-engines-and-oil-pumps-by-melling/ melling sells a pump pressure tank for about $270

HF sells a pressure tank you could very easily use after minor conversion for $100
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2-1/2 gal. Air Pressure Paint Tank

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filling, and pressurizing the internal engine oil passages, and changing oil and filter with fresh oil is a good idea,
as is pulling the spark plugs and squirting a few tea spoons of MARVEL MSTERY OIL into each cylinder before ,
you initially spin the engine a few times and only then replace the spark plugs and reconnect the ignition wires before you start the enine the first time
but there are much easier and cheaper routes to prime and fill the engines oil passages, watch this video

tractor supply sells a cheap ($25)liquid pump you could use, to prime an engine

1655781178088.png
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p..._4nwcrihhvZUYGH-PlxJvDrrxGxlNvaxoCOMMQAvD_BwE
home depot sells a tank that could be converted with a few fittings and tubing to prime an engine
especially if you have an air compressor


www.homedepot.com

HDX 1 Gal. Pump Sprayer 1501HDXA

This 1 Gal. funnel top semi-translucent tank is made of high density Polyethylene. It provides a no-spill fill and visible liquid level. The automatic pressure-relief valve provides added safety. A comfort
www.homedepot.com
SBCOilingnew.png


 
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related threads with info you might want














 
if you know where your engines oil pressure sensor is located ,
it can be temporarily removed and replaced with a brass fitting and hose, can be used with a pump or your air compressor,
to easily fill the engines internal oil passages prior to the engines cam and ring break in,
on most SBC engines there's one easy location near the distributor, on the BBC there's an access port near the oil filter
it would be rather easy to modify a hand pump sprayer to use to pre fill an engine with oil with a few brass fittings

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sbc
DSCF0286.JPG.d319b9de211472c316b16b932b2576d1.JPG


BBC
 
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As always a bunch of ideas answered, thanks.

Here is my thoughts, I already have a oil accumulator, But here is the thing, first is on shut down you fill it up, so your now a QT or two low.

Then you put it back in during a prestart pressurization. That can work OK...

My one concern is having a oil accumulator hold its oil and pressure for anywhere from 3 to 6 months.

At first 4 to 6 months after engine is full broken in and after I have done a bunch of MPG testing and tuning.

Then it becomes a standard RV and will sit for long periods of time.

I seem to remember a oil draining system where you suck oil out by the dip stick tube.

One idea is to suck out a qt or two, load it into your tank and then using a one way valve on a line that then can be hooked up to the outside oil tank and then just reverse the electric pump TO pump the removed oil right back into the engine then start it.

OR just hook a pump up so it pulls oil out and then in the same action pumps it right back in at pressure.

Rich
 
I will most likely build a small array of a block of oil sensors, A oil pressure, sender, a 10 pound low warning sensor, and a 5 pound engine shut down that will be bypassed until engine is running, and now a input line for pressurization.

Rich
 
The prelube systems can only lube the crank, i guess? To lube the lifters and rockers, the engine must rotate to lube all of the lifters and rockers?
 
Well I am fairly sure that is incorrect. There are three oil galleries running along side the cam, these are to oil the cam and the lifters, and oil pushed up thought the lifter is then pushed up though the push rods to oil the rockers.

The only thing that needs a running engine is the pistons, they get a squirt of oil from the connecting rods every rotation and with a static engine only one might get that shot of oil. But considering how well they are oiled that there is a special set of rings just to remove as much as possible, I do not think them can be a problem.

Unless you in a humid area and over time I have read of water get into cylinders that are open, like they stopped with a intake valve or two open and it has been known for that to happen and you can get a rusty cylinder or two.

As I live in AZ that is not a problem here.

Rich

My 2 cents.
 
I dont know where i got that information, something about the lifters oil feed is not open all the time, hence you need to rotate the engine, but everything you read is not true, thats fore sure, still learning :D
 
I think the lifters need a constant oil supply, other wise they would be bleeding down at low RPMs due to lack of pressure, like Rhords lifters.
 
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