first hotrod build

So this is what the hobby has come to - if it can't be bought, then that's it.
No one fabricates anymore.:(
 
building my own shifter is a bit more than I am ready for right now, fabricating a raised console is. had not thought about it previously and could solve some other problems I have been dealing with.
 
that would work well but fabricating a console will solve many more problems like where to put extra switches and gauges. now to figure out what type of shifter to get. thanks
 
glad I found this site, just checked my ready fit piston rings that where only .009-.012 gap. I am shure that if I was building this before reading to check everything I would have just slaped them in because they were fit when shipped.
 

one of the major reasons I built this web site was to help new guys avoid making costly mistakes.
installing rings without the proper end gap, clearance,would more than likely ,
have resulted in the ring ends butting , and locking in the bore.
and the top of the piston coming off ,
8piston003.jpg

the first time you seriously over heated or ran into prolonged detonation.
theres decades of good info posted on this website,
if you do a bit of research

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/detonation-pre-ignition.208/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ow-to-reduce-its-likely-hood.9816/#post-49741

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-grooves-and-related-info.1797/#post-36469

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/detonation-damage.2883/#post-31942

its always a mistake to ignore links
don,t ignore the sub linked info


http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-and-basic-piston-ring-info-youll-need.509/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/installing-rings-in-piston-grooves.9490/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-piston-ring-grooves-and-related-info.1797/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...roove-depth-clearance-effects-ring-seal.5454/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...g-and-installing-connecting-rods-pistons.247/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/maximizing-piston-to-bore-ring-seal.3897/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/piston-rings-related-info.2795/
 
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at least the #1 bore of my 30 over fully machined block mics at 4.0285. will mic the rest later quitting for the night before I break something.
 
4.0285........... should actually be closer to 4.031. Someone forget to finish honing that bore.
That's EXACTLY why we measure EVERYTHING.
 
it seems incompetence abounds especially on my part. having never used inside mics before it seems that there is a learning curve, working on all cylinder bores I got a better feel and I believe more accurate measure. 1) 4.030 3) 4.0305 5) 4.0305 7) 4.030 2) 4.030 4) 4,030 6) 4.030 8) 4.02975 To check piston clearance I inserted each piston upside down in the bore, laid the feeler gauge in the bore and drew the inverted piston up on the gauge. .0025 slides easily all bores .003 has firm drag but still slides over gauge with one finger through wrist pin. Icon 4032 alloy forged piston instructions call for street .0025-.0035 street towing .0030-.0040 looks like specs are acceptable but I question my judgement now. the prefit rings I complained about plainly say on the package file fit measure before using.
 
You should have used the same 1 piston to compare the bores using your method
because those also have a variance. Redo the cylinder measuring (your method) and
then measure each piston (90 degrees to wrist pin and at the same distance down from the oil
ring groove (usually about 1" down from the piston top).
Now you will be able to custom select which piston goes into each bore to achieve nearly equal clearances.:D
 
if you want a fast dependable car you will need to either do the research required to know exactly how and why things should work, or pay someone else to do the work that has taken that time and effort.
pistondie.png


your going to need decent feeler gauges
ass-big5.gif

ctrp_0708_14z+advanced_piston_technology+.jpg

if the ring gaps, or piston to bore clearances are not carefully checked, or not correct your engine could easily get screwed up
Due to machining tolerances on both pistons and bore sizes theres always some minor differences between components,
when your assembling any engine, youll file fit the ring gaps to individual cylinders,and youll,
generally you'll want to carefully measure each individual piston diameter and each individual bore diameter very carefully,
and match the larger pistons to the larger bore sizes to keep the average side clearance as consistent as possible
06CheckingPiston.jpg

07CheckingPiston.jpg

most applications would have a ring gap of about .004-.005 per inch of bore diam.
 
I am slow, ask questions if I am not certain of what I am measuring or methods, icons piston clearance seemed way to tight to me even though I know 4032 has a low expansion rate so I called and was assured it was correct, and if I felt something was beyond my ability I would farm it out. I do read the posts and info to learn what I need to do, now it is taking all the measurements and fitting everything, I was not planning on file fitting rings and was willing to except the looser pregaped rings I thought came with the set but this will be more precise, total seal says to gap top and second rings .0045 for each 1" of bore my math says .018 lots of work with little time, I am enjoying this project and hope it wont be too long now.
 
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Learn by doing you will never know what you are capable unless you try. You will more then likely be up and running before me. I can not wait to see it all back together.
 
afr recommends using billet cams with all heads so I am contemplating either 195 eliminators or for 100 dollars more I could get 210s that flow better. with a 383 don't know which way to go, smaller ports or better flow.
 
if you compare the 195cc vs 210cc AFR heads, all the way
theres a significant improvement in flow and a negligible decrease in port flow speed
theres always a compromise made between cost and potential power,
and obviously you want to match components to the intended power and rpm range,
but having seen a bunch of 383 builds use both AFR heads,
I think the 210cc choice here, is a no brainer if you can afford the price.

heres a chart FROM THE BOOK,HOW TO BUILD BIG-INCH CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS with some common cross sectional port sizes
(measured at the smallest part of the ports)
...........................sq inches........port cc
edelbrock performer rpm ....1.43.............170
vortec......................1.66.............170
tfs195......................1.93.............195
afr 180.....................1.93.............180
afr 195.....................1.98.............195
afr 210.....................2.05.............210
dart pro 200................2.06.............200
dart pro 215................2.14.............215
brodix track 1 .............2.30.............221
dart pro 1 230..............2.40.............230
edelbrock 23 high port .....2.53.............238
edelbrock 18 deg............2.71.............266
tfs 18 deg..................2.80.............250

Potential HP based on Airflow (Hot Rod, Jun '99, p74):
Airflow at 28" of water x 0.257 x number of cylinders = potential HP
or required airflow based on HP:
HP / 0.257 / cylinders = required airflow

if we compare the head air flow rates between a 195cc and 210cc head on a 383-406 SBC and assuming a decent roller cam with the lift and duration,required, and intake that allows the heads to flow at their full potential,

195cc Street Head Flow Chart
.200 .300 .400 .500 .550
Int 146 201 247 275 280
Exh 119 166 197 213 218



210cc Race Ready Head Flow Chart
.200 .300 .400 .500 .550 .600 .650
Int 145 199 255 292 301 309 311
Exh 110 158 192 210 214 220 222


if you compare peak intake rated flow at .550 lift
280 cfm vs 301 cfm (about a 9% increase) youll see why
thats in theory potentially a 43 hp gain
 
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