first hotrod build

Try it and see how much it moves without a support. If it moves too much, then add the
support, what have you got to loose?

I'm essentially coming off the frame to support mine. It is obvious that they are moving
a lot less even when you take into account the motor movement, which is not much with
my motor mounted at the front.

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I will be needing another distributor for this engine, the engine I am pulling will keep its large cap distributor since I cannot identify it and will need it anyway. Would like some recommendations on which way to go, haven't seen much difference between cheap china and expensive china (msd) should I save money? pertronix or davis unified, quality but costly though often cheaper in the long run. Use the 10 buck swap meet single point distributor of unknown condition I have, upgrade it with an electronic conversion. My gut feeling is to go with DUI although the wallet wont like it. Large small new old one gets a bit overwhelmed, great to have the choices but the experience to know what you need is helpful.
 
Indy how loud is your set, I was thinking the crossover would reduce the sound level. the total length will be to the rear fenders where they will kick out, plan on using thrush 24242 glasspacks and some heat shielding of some sort.
 
I don't think it's too loud for a hotrod, but you definitely hear it coming. What you can't see
are baffles inside the extensions, just wanted to make sure you knew there was some kind of
muffler in the system.
.
 
yea I will have 3"perforated packs straight through with no baffle which is why I was hoping a crossover would help.
 
Do you want a quieter car or are you worried about the local Gestapo ??? :cool:

The cross over should help if you have the ground clearance, but it's a hotrod, never had
a problem with the police.
 
Will you be shifting manually or letting the trans shift for it's self? If you shifting manually,
then you still need a rev limiter.
 
my plan is to have the governor do the full throttle shift at about 5500-5800 when I put in the 700 I will build after the engine is in and running. will be running with th350 until then with a lokar stick so deffinently no shifting there. My thoughts were to use a megashifter when the 700 goes in, not shure what shifter I should use and I may want to play with shifting but have never had a performance auto. Perhaps I need to go with pertronics III that has a rev limiter. Reading through the links gives lots of information but not exactly what I am looking for.
 
Making one shift exactly where you want can be a trial and error process. At least I don't think
you can just buy a governor rated for the precise rpm you want. You can't go wrong by having a
limiter, something could break in the drive train allowing the rpm's to rise unrestricted.
 
I will need to get another distributor for this engine or conversion for old points distributor, should I get the speedmaster in addition to a distributor. I was considering the flamethrowerIII hei unit.
 
Back to the shop. I have pulled the old engine and wonder what I will find as it is pulled apart. First thing I found when I pulled the carb whas the spreadbore adapter was upside down and had a major leak on one side, should have caught it sooner but I assumed the previous owner new what he was doing. Drained the fluids and when I removed the thermostat housing there was no thermostat but it did have interesting green granules in the manifold. Pulled the block drain plug and it appears the block has been filled with rocblock or whatever. When fitting up the pulleys I found that not all danpers are the same thickness and had to get a 3/8" spacer so they line up. Ready for install will let you know how it goes with photos.
Hope all stay safe and healthy!
 
4-22-20.jpg 4-22-20-2.jpg 4-22-20-3.jpg 4-22-20-4.jpg A few things I have found, self aligning rockers with aligning heads, wire soldered to modual, and bad picture of grainy green glob in water neck.
 
Will 7 quarts Mobil 1 and a pint of Marvels work for beak in oil in a hydraulic roller motor or do I still need the zddp for start up. Also is the 2500 to 3000 rpm necessary for flat tappets needed for a roller cam, if not what are the proper rpm range and duration.
 
theres no break-in at 2000-3000 rpm required for a roller cam
and yeah that oil will work
 
Finally got to start for maybe ten seconds, almost ready for another try. Two things are still a problem, my carter 4600hp fuel pump will only make 3 psi max even with blocking off the return, and the arp head studs that I used their stud sealant on are seeping water very slow drip. Is the water seepage anything to worry about, will it quit on its own when I fill with antifreeze mixture or should I use a stop leak or sealer. For fuel pressure is there anything to do or will I have to buy a 4601 pump with 7-14psi.
 
Id sure stop and discover the reason the head studs leak and cure that issue before proceeding further
test the fuel pump on the output of the fuel pump and with a short section of hose and a gauge,
if it won,t get to 6 psi or greater and be consistently held at 6psi or greater,
replace it, if it does produce 6psi or greater,
find out why your not getting full pressure at the carb inlet

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...venting-leaky-head-bolts-studs.50/#post-92855
 
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