first hotrod build

I have finally got things up and running,fuel pressure steady at 5-5.5 runs smooth vacuum steady, other than running a bit warm 210 with straight water because I have no idea if i will need to open the engine again soon,everything with the engine seems fine. Cannot figure out a classic problem, when put in gear idle drops and surges until it stalls,stoplights are difficult to keep running at and breaks must be held firm to not walk forward. Torque converter is unknown but probably stock stall th350, did not change because new overdrive is planned. 600 edlebrock, 219/225 roller cam, dual plane intake with solid divider. Searched threads but not finding it, no computers or sensors with this. Had someone say its too small a carb but that does not sound right to me, possible converter bad? have seen this alot when younger with others cars.
 
that's a classic case or expected symptom resulting from use of a torque converter that stalls at a bit lower stall speed than the cam requires
or put a different way, the cam's a bit too radical or has too much duration,
for the stock torque converter stall speed your matching it too.
stock torque converters rarely work great once you exceed about 210 intake degrees duration and tighter than about 110 LSA on the cam
swap to a 2600-2700rpm stall converter and it all gets better with that cam
,if the cam you installed had lets say a 230-@ .050 lift or 234 intake duration @ .050,
you might need a 3000rpm-3200 rpm stall converter.

btw a mismatch, in cam to converter stall speed,
like that is one of the MOST COMMON minor screw-ups,
most of us have made, in the past so you're certainly not alone!

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-...u want the stall,will have against the engine.

https://www.rodauthority.com/tech-s...r-basics-do-you-know-how-to-choose-correctly/

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/how-much-torque-converter-stall-speed/

https://www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-...r-basics-do-you-know-how-to-choose-correctly/

https://www.tciauto.com/stall-speed-chart

convertst.png


http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...electing-a-torque-converter-stall-speed.1715/
 
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heads are torqued and clearances checked, pushrod length checker shows I need 7.450 pushrods. this seems an odd length. block is oe roller and I am using retro fit tie bar roller lifters with afr 210 heads. roller rocker valve roller sits right in the middle of the valve, everything looks good but with the odd length I thought it best to run it past you all.
Mine are 7.325, indycars is I think 7.2, our are OEM Roller blocks. Our heads are different and I have lash caps. Just FYI!
 
About done with the coupe and want to know your opinion on [ in line heat sink coolers ] for oil and trans fluid mounted on the frame rails since I dont have much room and the radiator is pretty bussy now with ac and a trans cooler now.
 
one of the guys I know owns a 1996 ford 4x4 bronco with larger than stock tires
that has a supercharged 302 ford engine in, his truck,
he is using two of this style fluid coolers,
one for the engine oil on one frame rail on the inside surface and one on the on the inside surface of the other frame rail for cooling the trans fluid
he says it made a noticeable difference but he has to frequently hose off the mud from the fined surfaces for them to work effectively ,
otherwise he is happy, he stated he knows they absorb a good deal of heat and dissipate it effectively,
thats very obvious if he drives the truck barefoot, just due to the trucks floor temperature
der-13267_w.jpg
 
I am considering using one with 6-an fittings like the one above in parallel with the radiator cooler and another with 3/4 npt for oil with the 8 quart oil pan, also planning on adding engine oil and trans temp gauges to keep temps under 170 and 215-225.
 
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