first hotrod build

your links say not to run a cast cam with more than a 130lb seat, the afr heads for hydraulic roller says 140lb seat. should I use a billet cam then.
 
most flat tappet cams use 110 lb-130 lb seat pressure springs ,
you can get by with the 140 lb-150 lb seat pressure springs in almost every application,
with a roller lifter cam, IF ITS A HEAT TREATED SURFACE HARDENED cam
but I would have suggested swapping to a billet cam by the time the seat pressure was much over 150 lbs
as the pressure on the lifter roller wheel increases so does the potential for having issues if you match a roller lifter and a soft cam lobe.
ALWAYS ask questions as to the best , and most durable parts combination they have available from your cam suppliers tech department
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hotrod coupe said:
money is the only problem, more overtime to pay for correct parts. just checked the rear cam bearings, of the two oil holes one was only half aligned with the oil groove the forward one has solid metal under it. checking even though I had decided I will pull and replace them anyway.
Click to expand...

Good catch.
Since you are replacing the cam bearings anyway, follow Grumpy's suggestions for clocking them.
 
My suggestion is get the best cam core you can mine was ground on billets with a iron gear no need to change distributor gear that way
 
ok I have drilled an oil plug for the front oil galley, smallest drill I had was .038. to large? do I need to get a smaller drill bit and drill another, I have more plugs.
 
is there any problem with using red glyptal for external block paint, I like the color and it is unique have not seen anybody else use it.
 
glyptal.jpg

I've used it and seen several other people use it , it works fine
gyptalk1.jpg

gyptalk2.jpg

https://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/...MI_NPtzoHs1AIVWrjACh2A6wFBEAQYASABEgK02fD_BwE

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-your-engine-color-selection.7703/#post-26220
 
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after reading the dual plane intake comparison it appears that all new manifolds are fairly close in performance. I have a wieand 8004 manifold, would this be an appropriate manifold for my 383 build or should I buy a new one?
 
8004.jpg

the wieand 8004 is an older design and yes it will as mentioned, cost you a few potential horse power,
but as the previous poster mentioned
"I prefer an air gap but if you already own that one why not run it"
and get that engine up and running on your current budget and time frame, and once your driving the car ,
you can always sell that wieand intake and replace it with something a bit more up-too date,
once you have some spare cash and a free afternoon.
 
if you could, posting pictures would be appreciated, don,t assume the bearing journal diameters are correct, on any crankshaft,
, ( while they are almost certainly correct on a SCAT crank)
its good practice and certainly smart to measure carefully to be 100% sure, and that youve purchased and matched them to the correct matched bearing set!
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I will check all measurements and clearances by the book so I know how to do them. calipers and micrometers are much easier for me than computers, currently trying to figure out how to put pictures on here, it would help me as much as all of you with questions and answers.
 
Microsoft paint works well for resizing pictures to post in here if you are posting pics from an android device I like to use a free app called photo resizer. Camera tech has increased allot in the past 10 years.
 
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