frustrated at not getting a razor sharp edge

grumpyvette

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frustrated at not getting a razor sharp edge
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about 6 years ago I was at bass pro shops and they had a sale on knives,so I picked up two non-serrated blade marine combat knives for future use , they are genuine K-bar not clones and if I remember correctly I paid about $70 each at the time, they got put away in my safe until about a week ago when I pulled one out and decided to sharpen it , now I can put a razor edge on almost every knife I own, and some of my san-mi cold steel knives can take an exceptional edge, but after 3 -4 hours of careful hone with a diamond hone the K-bar has an edge that I would call barely acceptable while even some of my gerbers, old timer and sharade knives, that cost far less have far better results in far less time?
yes both the knife blade steel and the sharpening system needs to match and be high quality
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with any blade, youll need a decent sharpening tool, and these are easy to use and carry
https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/DMT-Double-Sided-Diafold-P12.aspx
and the same sharpening process has consistently resulted
in excellent results on the other blades?
is it just that the steel is soft?
any suggestions?

http://www.tameshigiri.ca/2014/01/07/ra ... -is-sharp/

If you can,t get a razor sharp edge with a set of these stones diamond faced folding handle sharpeners, below, and a can of WD 40 and a leather strap for stropping after some practice your approaching hopeless at a dead run!
Ive always had decent results, getting a shaving sharp edge, on anything like decent steel, if you take the time and effort.

https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/DMT-Double-Sided-Diafold-P12C24.aspx

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and yes its the steel as both my sharp finger and old timer shrade knives are very easy to shave with.
the sharade woodsman
http://www.knifeoutlet.com/shop/10Expan ... e=SCH165OT

the sharade woodsman

https://outfitterwarehouse.com/prod...MIlszDzK744gIVA6rsCh1pTwnAEAQYAiABEgKEvfD_BwE

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Try a Honing Oil Grumpy.
I have a small amount of Sunnen brand honing oil given to me by Mopar Bob from his work.
Real machine shop stuff Sunnen. Its dark brown & stinky stuff but works great for tough to finish jobs.
Or Gun oil.
Something to float the Lapped honed debis away from Virgin metal stock.
 
I probably should have mentioned that, but I assume most experienced guys know that proper knife edge honing requires,a well flushed abrasive surface, consistent maintaining of edge angles, frequent cleaning of the surfaces, constant fresh oil, applied,good quality, honing oil and a leather strop.
 
grumpyvette said:
I probably should have mentioned that, but I assume most experienced guys know that proper knife edge honing requires,a well flushed abrasive surface, consistent maintaining of edge angles, frequent cleaning of the surfaces, constant fresh oil, applied,good quality, honing oil and a leather strop.
I am not an expert knife sharpener Grumpy.
Just sharpen my pocket knives when needed..
Maybe Phil knows a better trick. US Army guy from the past.
 
It must be really hard steel & you are most likely sharpening at a different angle than the factory edge once you get it sharp you will be able to keep it sharp easily just keep working it & good results will come
 
Anybody use japanese wetstones to sharpen their knives and long blades? Its a bit of a cash outlay to get all the stones needed but i started out with a couple norton combo stones to get the hang of it, then bought stones as i needed thrm. Its a great skill to learn and your kitchen knives will slways be razor sharp.
 
both the stone size and quality matters ,
but its the experience and skill and knowledge of the guy doing the edge sharpening process,
and his use of flushing liquid on the surface and ability to maintain a consistent angle that matter a great deal.
many guys don,t recognize the need to keep the abraded debris that comes off the edge ,out of the micro surface
of the stone to keep its ability to cleanly hone the edge surface is critical, dry honing rapidly clogs the micro surface structure,
reducing the cutting efficiency, if theres a liquid constantly lifting and flushing the surface , like a good hone requires it works far better,
water will work, but some oils work better at trapping and keeping trash in suspension.

related info

https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/...MIpuiG-4S64AIVj6GzCh36NADkEAMYASAAEgJg0_D_BwE

https://www.amazon.com/Kai-Japanese-Professional-Knife-Sharpening/dp/B000UZET0M

https://www.amazon.com/Yoshihiro-Professional-Japanese-Whetstone-Sharpener/dp/B00TAC414A

https://www.knifesharpenerguy.com/best-sharpening-stone/

https://www.knifeplanet.net/best-sharpening-stones/
 
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https://www.chefknivestogo.com/sharpening-stones.html

Thats a great site and where ive done most of my stone purchases after i wore out the Norton combos. Ive got a great selection now and can do most knives except the newer exotic steels.

Its a zen like/relaxing experience once you get in the groove. I bought a bunch of hammered, chipped and tips broken off garage sale knives to learn on then reprofile the broken tips and chipped edges.

Got a machinist background and love working with metal.
 
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