GEAR PULLERS, its darn love/hate relationship, most of the time if your using the correct design and a quality tool everything goes smoothly and you don,t give it a second thought, but if you don,t know what your doing, if your using a cheap tool or the wrong tool, the potential to screw up expensive components is very high!
READ THIS THREAD
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=902&p=1463#p1463
first bit of advice, id NEVER waste money on crappy imported chinese gear pullers they are a total waste of money
EXAMPLE
I bought this set mostly just to see if there was any chance they were servicable (but at $20 I knew better)
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=32184
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F5LIW4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.otctools.com/products/harmonic-balancer-pullerinstaller-set
damn the gal in that video, makes that process, look a whole lot more difficult in the video that it generally is,
and yes its very easily possible to over tighten the interchangeable central adapter screw,parts
if your not careful, and yes they do sell replacement adapter screws
(never lend tools to your friends, or you'll be buying , and replacing those replacement threaded, adapter components)
use moly grease on tool threads
Rick I have to say... thank you for posting that bit of info......
I never would have thought too even try assembling the damper tool that,way,
but I'm sure your not the first, nor will you be the last guy to do that,
so its a damn informative picture for those members, that might never of had seen that tool in use, most of us learn by making mistakes.. yeah Ive made my share also!
CAST right into the arms is the word (FORGED STEEL) they are NOT, they are a cheap brittle casting that breaks the first time a significant loads applied, I broke all three the first time I used them on applications that my old SEARS gear pullers smoothly and effectively removed with little effort.
heres a CHEAP but servicable sets
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... Cookie=Yes
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/ ... 3315_13315
decent cheap pullers
http://www.stanleyproto.com/default.asp ... alog=PROTO
http://www.mytoolstore.com/otc/1020.html
keep in mind you NEVER want to center the threaded screw center section , of the puller into the end of a cranks threaded hole or the gear puller shaft will destroy the threaded section, UNLESS youve used a hardened center support between them.
http://www.stanleyproto.com/default.asp ... ement+Part
BTW check out local PAWN SHOPS I see snap-on and MAC gear pullers ocasionally and buy any that are reasonably priced
use the correct tool, beating the damper onto the crank frequently damages both the damper and the thrust bearing in the engine
http://www.tavia.com/cat12.html#1
"You put the damper on the crankshaft after oiling the crank snout and inner damper as far as you can get it with a few soft taps of large plastic mallet.
You thread grumpy's tool into the crankshaft as far as possible.OIL THE THREADS...with the roller bearing against the damper, the washer next, between the nut and roller bearing, then the nut,outer most, you turn the nut forcing the damper on, but be aware the damper generally slides on and the ttool makes it fairly easy, so carefully watch as over tightening the tool once the damper bottoms against the cranks shoulder will brake the tool..........the picture depicts the tool set up for a sbc, youll need to use the larger end and reverse it for the bbc
You then turn the real big nut, and the balancer walks on to the crankshaft
they also make combo puller/installers Proform 66514 - Proform
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_43866_-1
theres a TOOL designed expressely for removing the damper and its NOT a conventional swing jaw type gear puller LIKE THESE
they tend to bind and distort the damper, frequently damaging it
youll need something like this (you can get a cheap version at most auto parts stores for under $40 but the one from summit better quality
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=PRO-66514&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ATI-918999&autoview=sku
http://www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/safety_h ... llers.html
BTW
the crank gears requires a 3 or 4 jaw gear puller ,because the two jaw style tends to try and fold/bind the gear into the crank snout, a lighted propane torch applied briefly to heat the crank gear tends to expand & loosen its hold on the crank
READ THIS THREAD
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=902&p=1463#p1463
first bit of advice, id NEVER waste money on crappy imported chinese gear pullers they are a total waste of money
EXAMPLE
I bought this set mostly just to see if there was any chance they were servicable (but at $20 I knew better)
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=32184
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F5LIW4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.otctools.com/products/harmonic-balancer-pullerinstaller-set
damn the gal in that video, makes that process, look a whole lot more difficult in the video that it generally is,
and yes its very easily possible to over tighten the interchangeable central adapter screw,parts
if your not careful, and yes they do sell replacement adapter screws
(never lend tools to your friends, or you'll be buying , and replacing those replacement threaded, adapter components)
use moly grease on tool threads
Rick I have to say... thank you for posting that bit of info......
I never would have thought too even try assembling the damper tool that,way,
but I'm sure your not the first, nor will you be the last guy to do that,
so its a damn informative picture for those members, that might never of had seen that tool in use, most of us learn by making mistakes.. yeah Ive made my share also!
CAST right into the arms is the word (FORGED STEEL) they are NOT, they are a cheap brittle casting that breaks the first time a significant loads applied, I broke all three the first time I used them on applications that my old SEARS gear pullers smoothly and effectively removed with little effort.
heres a CHEAP but servicable sets
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... Cookie=Yes
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/ ... 3315_13315
decent cheap pullers
http://www.stanleyproto.com/default.asp ... alog=PROTO
http://www.mytoolstore.com/otc/1020.html
keep in mind you NEVER want to center the threaded screw center section , of the puller into the end of a cranks threaded hole or the gear puller shaft will destroy the threaded section, UNLESS youve used a hardened center support between them.
http://www.stanleyproto.com/default.asp ... ement+Part
BTW check out local PAWN SHOPS I see snap-on and MAC gear pullers ocasionally and buy any that are reasonably priced
use the correct tool, beating the damper onto the crank frequently damages both the damper and the thrust bearing in the engine
http://www.tavia.com/cat12.html#1
"You put the damper on the crankshaft after oiling the crank snout and inner damper as far as you can get it with a few soft taps of large plastic mallet.
You thread grumpy's tool into the crankshaft as far as possible.OIL THE THREADS...with the roller bearing against the damper, the washer next, between the nut and roller bearing, then the nut,outer most, you turn the nut forcing the damper on, but be aware the damper generally slides on and the ttool makes it fairly easy, so carefully watch as over tightening the tool once the damper bottoms against the cranks shoulder will brake the tool..........the picture depicts the tool set up for a sbc, youll need to use the larger end and reverse it for the bbc
You then turn the real big nut, and the balancer walks on to the crankshaft
they also make combo puller/installers Proform 66514 - Proform
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_43866_-1
theres a TOOL designed expressely for removing the damper and its NOT a conventional swing jaw type gear puller LIKE THESE
they tend to bind and distort the damper, frequently damaging it
youll need something like this (you can get a cheap version at most auto parts stores for under $40 but the one from summit better quality
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=PRO-66514&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ATI-918999&autoview=sku
http://www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/safety_h ... llers.html
BTW
the crank gears requires a 3 or 4 jaw gear puller ,because the two jaw style tends to try and fold/bind the gear into the crank snout, a lighted propane torch applied briefly to heat the crank gear tends to expand & loosen its hold on the crank
Last edited by a moderator: