Getting busy for this winter

mathd

mathd

solid fixture here in the forum
Well, its been way too long since i did anything to the car.
Today we pulled the engine out.
Want to remove those damn 2 broken oil pan bolt.(stupid error from me).
Think am going to use the welder method for these 2 ones.
I don't have picture of them right now, but soon.

Changing the engine mount and many other little things are on the list.

Now, engine out:


And some engine porn for your eyes:


More picture and detail will be added later.
As you can see am not working in a nice shop. but it do get dirty and has all the needed tools :)
Just don't look at the surrounding if you think its ugly.

This is what the place look like around:


and inside:



There's the lockerroom and bedroom but you don't want to see that :).

It's not very big, but its cheap and the neighbors are cool :)
Only downside is no bathroom (just a outhouse and at -30C the winter its not cool.. the toilet seat is VERY cold) and no internet :(.
 
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I'm jealous... nice green outdoors, cool neighbors... cool car, and a refrigerator that is held shut with a ratchet strap...? :p

Looking forward to the progress posts and pics :)
 
JimmyDuncan said:
and a refrigerator that is held shut with a ratchet strap...? :p
Click to expand...
Yeah that and picture no.2 the trash bag (and styrofoam you can't see)in the windows oupss.
That refrigerator was dropped off a truck, brand new got it for free.. but the door don't hold closed. have to use a good old strap hehe.
The trash bag in the windows is lazyness mixed with me running out of cash.

That green outdoor is cool :), waking up the morning there is wonderfull. Make for a good day. You don't want to return to the civilization after a few days.
 
These electric toilet look awesome but they are 2000$, i could get a used car lift for that price. and maby the concrete for the floor.(my future plan is to get a septic tank for waste, and running water"i use gutter to collect water from the roof into drums right now"),. I have 2 neighbors with alot of machinery, we can dig the hole and make the install for free.
Yesterday afternoon it was 17°C (62°F).
Tonight and this morning it is 13°C (55°F). a bit cold for july. (too cold for my taste)
We have no summer this year, cold as shit.(and we had a long never ending winter too).
 
Ok,
So far the check list for the engine look like this (let me know if am missing something).
Starting from bottom to top of engine.

Removing the 2 broken oil pan bolt
Pulling main cap to check main crank bearing and add windage screen/tray. (if budjet allow, changing the main cap bolt for ARP stud).
Adding a timing tape/marker(damper is 2 degree off and it anoy me)
Timing camshaft (its also 2-3 degree off).
Checking cam button clearance(some dude put it in there while i was not there and he did not check the clearance)
Pulling head and measure piston/deck clearance.(and quickly checking the cylinder for scratches.. just in case while am there)
Measuring piston to valve clearance.
Maby CC'ing the head too.
Checking distributor gear for excessive wear.
Checking camshaft lobe for excessive wear.
Checking blower for excessive wear.
Maby replace the head bolt with ARP bolt or stud.
Checking bellhousing alignment.
Replacing engine mount.
Checking distributor rotor(it was missing a screw but worked perfectly haha).

And re-working the electrical wiring a little bit.(cleaning it up).
Now i will be gone for a day or two, maby ill come back with some picture, if i get to work on the engine.
This should be a winter project so, i have 10 month to do all of that. I can take it easy for a while and enjoy the summer for now.
 
mathd said:
Pulling main cap to check main crank bearing and add windage screen/tray. (if budjet allow, changing the main cap bolt for ARP stud).
Click to expand...
I would want to line hone the mains if I changed the clamping loads of the bolts.

mathd said:
Maby replace the head bolt with ARP bolt or stud.
Click to expand...
Same a above except it would be honing with a deck plate. Was it honed with a deck plate
originally? If not, then you just don't know how round the cylinders.
 
Oh yeah, good point there,, ARP bolt and stud use different torque spec/clamping load. Thanks for the info.
So i will re-use the stock ones. don't want to take everything apart and do a trip to the machine shop(wich is quit a bit far from my hometown and i can't afford these expenses).
I guess adding the windage tray/screen to the crank is ok, same clamping load? or i just get the ones that install/weld to the oil pan and leave the main cap/crank alone since i don't want to get too deeply into this project.

Yes the block was honed with a deck plate.
Now am gone for 2 or 3 day, Be back later :).
 
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Ok i did a little bit of searching.
I don't know that sound like a good idea.
I want to get stronger head and crank bolt, with the same stock torque/clamp force.
I did find these ones made from Milodon are forged chrome moly.
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mil-80000
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mil-80032/overview/make/chevrolet

Do you think thats a good idea?.
Now, about the head bolt, they need thread sealant. I have the permatex high performance and permatex PTFE. wich do you think is the best?(i used the high performance, and it worked for the last 4 years)
Also for the rocker stud, what is best thread lock or thread sealer?. I used thread locker because that's what the instruction call for. but i feel like thread sealant is a better idea since they go into the water jacket.


Now.
Question no.2
(see this chart for a bit more understanding:
https://images.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=http://www.onallcylinders.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Compression-Ratio.jpg&f=1)
My SCR is(should be.. will measure later this year) 8.7:1, blower cam, about 4-5.5 psi boost, 91 octane.
According to this chart i should be around 11.2:1 with boost right now (max is 12:1 at 92 octane, i use 91 octane, am pretty close to the limit right now)
My quench is a bit wide, .052".
I was thinking of reducing the head gasket thickness to get the quench down around the .040-.044 that will also increase the compression ratio a little bit(and increase boost a very little bit too, from what i read online).
Or should i just get some bigger pulley to increase boost and reduce belt slippage(wich are not really a problem so far)?
I think getting the quench right and CR a bit higher is a better idea, and cheaper too. those pulley are expensives, head gasket are not. Spinning the blower faster has its downside too,
 
Milodon Maincap and headbolts are good Mathiew.
Buy only what you can afford.
Otherwise nothing will be reused but tbe Blower Supercharger.
 
Ok so i started workingt a little on the broken oil pan bolts.
here is what it looked like before:



Both of them has broken bolt extractor inside them.
I first tryed removing them with the welder and nut, but those are 1/4 bolt into a heavy casting. so i could not get the weld to fused strong enough into the broken bolt to remove them.
So, i went ahead, put a magnet near the hole(to attract metal/iron chip)
Got a carbide burr, made a perfect concave surface to start drilling.(was too hard to punch a center hole into the heardened screw extractor..)
Got myself some carbide drills:

4 years ago i tryied drilling them with cobalt drill but it was not working...
Those carbide drill are VERY brittle and break really easily.
I started drilling with the 1mm ones and i broke off instantly....
So i drilled with the 1/16 inch ones.
The carbide drill really helped starting the holes, but once the hole was started about 1/8 of an inch deep i moved to the cobalt bit and it worked(carbide is way too brittle...so i moved to the cobalt)... those cobalt bit needed re-sharpening about 3 time for each bolt.. got a drill doctor.. and drilling really slowly.

I then enlarged the hole and run a 1/4-20 tap to clean the thread.
Here is the final result(keep in mind thread need some cleaning, removing the metal chip from the drilling/tap.)
I can now thread a bolt in each hole down the bottom :)... finally after 4 years haha.

Will start working on the rest after the cold(about february/march)
 
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Congrats on a job well done!!

Bet you were holding your breath the whole time you were drilling.
 
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