got a quick question on starters/battery,s

B

bob

Guest
Ok I went to help out one of our neighbors start his 2003 dodge van, with a 3.9 lt V6 , and auto transmission.
Its been sitting for about 3 years without being started.
Sitting un-used, because the front ball joint needed to be replaced, (we did that last week).
So , knowing its been not started for 3 years, we drained the fuel, and replaced that, we did an oil change and put in new spark plugs, changed the , oil, oil filter and fuel filter and tried to charge the old battery.
Now as expected the old battery is probably toast as it barely holds a charge, after sitting 3 years un-used.
so we will replace that, but the question is,I'm a bit curious , when we jump the car with jumper cables and hit the ignition/starter, the engine starts to spin, it might turn 60-90 degrees, then a fuse blows on the starter ignition circuit.
Well , seeing that happen, we pulled all the plugs thinking we might have a blown head gasket , with coolant hydraulically locking up a cylinder, but after pulling the plugs (which look clean) and squirting some marvel mystery oil in each spark plug hole (grumpy would be pleased).
We tried turning the engine over manually , with a breaker bar as a test, and it spins easily,
Yet, if we hit the starter circuit, it blows a fuze, after the engine barely rotates....any ideas??
I'm thinking its a short in the old battery, causing this? I'm sure we will find out as soon as the battery's replaced but I find that a bit odd?
 
typically a car battery that gets regular cycling will only live two or three years before it starts to falter somehow. that battery is toast. although highly unlikely, the plates in the battery COULD be shorting under load causing your issue... but i doubt that. either way a new battery is definitely required. as even if you got the vehicle running it likely will never hold a charge again.

i would search for a short in the starting system after getting a fresh battery. to be sure, start at the ignition key, trace to the neutral safety switch, then out to the starter solenoid, finally from the starter solenoid to the battery. if continuity is found and no shorts are detected, there could be an issue inside the starter solenoid.

another thing to consider is the voltage regulator possibly taking a dump after so long sitting... maybe brian can elaborate on this further as hes well versed in alternators and their components and functions. for a split second an alternator is capable of putting out a couple hundred volts AC if unchecked by the regulator and the diodes, easily causing mayhem electrically. only way to check this safely would be on an alternator bench. tho i suppose a multimeter under the hood might work if the motor spins long enough to emit a measurable charge.
 
Put a known good battery in.
Or brand New.
The Autozone Yellow Top Gold Battery is a decent bang for the Buck $.
Or an Interstate.
Vehicle batteries coming from China Now so shop carefull.

Clean all battery connections & at starter.
That Ground cable too.
Check underhood grounds. Clean as necessary .
Alternatir should be Ok if it worked 3 years ago.
Get it started and check voltage output.
Should be 13.8-14.8 vdc if A-ok.
 
Bob, Ill be happy to stop by and help out once you get a new battery , I'm reasonably sure once you get the starter spinning it over we can trouble shoot the rest of the issues

http://custombatterycables.com/product_info.htm

for those reading through the thread, Ill point out, that having heavy gauge COPPER battery and ground connection cables with the correct ends, and a 140 amp-to-200 amp alternator goes a long way towards
reducing potential battery and starter related issues
 
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Its your Friend Bob Grumpy....

Check that ASD. Auto Shut Down Relay Circuit Grumpy.
What EFI Mopar uses.
Couple of Green thermoplastic fusible Links nearby I recall now.
 
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