Grumpy, I want to dream...

manual transmissions make it much easier to live with and will work very well with the combo above but get a blow proof Lakewood bell housing and a 30-35 lb billet steel SFI rated flywheel for safe driving without worry about you or the wife dealing with a clutch or flywheel explosion if you miss a sift and the engine sees 7000 rpm plus, and a decent baffled oil pan would be a big durability improvement over the stock crap oil pan
http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/21...215314522151&gclid=CKWn24Hft84CFcFbhgodrGcLAA

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lak-15000/overview/

The dimension that you need to retain is 4.75" measured from the back of the engine block to the top of the pivot ball stud. This is the dimension of the GM bellhousing. The Lakewood is 4.870" plus the block plate it adds another .132" for a total of 5.002". That puts you .252" too deep inside the bellhousing. The adjustable Lakewood, Mr. Gasket, stud only gives you an extra .100' max over the short GM stud which is 1.48". So the most you can get with the Lakewood stud is 1.58". The GM long stud is 1.78", now you're over by .048. Should work. could take .05 off the top of pivot ball stud or shim washer between outside of bellhousing and flat rear of pivot stud. I had to deal with this before.

http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/rotating-assembies/chevy-rotating-assemblies/
 
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Another option is to find a 100% ready to drop in SBC 350- 355 into the TT.
RICHARD AGAIN.
HE HAS A 1980'S TUNED PORT CAMARO Z28 ENGINE COMPLETE WITH 65 MILES ON IT.
WAS TRYING TO SELL IT TO ME ON MY SUBURBAN PROJECT.

What Brian said.
I know you said Summit is your goto source, but look at what Competition Products has.
They have great Specials and Broom Sheet Clearances all the time.
http://www.competitionproducts.com/
 
manual transmissions make it much easier to live with and will work very well with the combo above but get a blow proof Lakewood bell housing and a 30-35 lb billet steel SFI rated flywheel for safe driving without worry about you or the wife dealing with a clutch or flywheel explosion if you miss a sift and the engine sees 7000 rpm plus, and a decent baffled oil pan would be a big durability improvement over the stock crap oil pan
http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/21...215314522151&gclid=CKWn24Hft84CFcFbhgodrGcLAA

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lak-15000/overview/

The dimension that you need to retain is 4.75" measured from the back of the engine block to the top of the pivot ball stud. This is the dimension of the GM bellhousing. The Lakewood is 4.870" plus the block plate it adds another .132" for a total of 5.002". That puts you .252" too deep inside the bellhousing. The adjustable Lakewood, Mr. Gasket, stud only gives you an extra .100' max over the short GM stud which is 1.48". So the most you can get with the Lakewood stud is 1.58". The GM long stud is 1.78", now you're over by .048. Should work. could take .05 off the top of pivot ball stud or shim washer between outside of bellhousing and flat rear of pivot stud. I had to deal with this before.

http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/rotating-assembies/chevy-rotating-assemblies/
I don't remember exactly, but the lakewood bellhousing call for a different throwout bearing(longer). if my memory is correct.
 
Thanks gents... I do like Summit Racing but I'm not bewed to them. I'm happy to explore other sources. THANKS for pointing them out!

If I'm a little quiet it's because I'm digesting; I've hardly ever worked with manual. The VW Karmann Ghia is the notable exception and not very high performance at that. It was a cakewalk. No super bellhousing required. Just assemble and go. Learning !

Can you guy give an indication on the power, torque, performance of a 383 in an early C3 'vette with great components but cammed, headed and intaked for a glass smooth idle? Will that kill the performance ? Are there any dyno-ed combos out there?

I'm quite sure I'll be going with a TBI kit, again for glass smooth operation. I suspect that's how my better half would most enjoy it. Particularly the no fuss starts. Even the Ghia requires some loud pedal goosing to wake her up.

Glass smooth also means a damn good balancing job!

Grumpy- on the side pipes; I'll have to get a look at what those look in the flesh so to speak... I've always thought they looked a little 70s over the top. Perhaps if I saw one for real, I'd change mind ? o_O
 
If you want a glass smooth idle and speed with stellar performance its best done by a Big Block Chevy.
A Big Block Pontiac .
A Big Bllock Olds 425-455.
Buick 455 & Caddie 500.
 
Your going to be dissapointed by a soft cammed 383.
Unless you never step on the gas WOT.
Super fast cars are being built today.
 
thats hardly a MILD or STOCK cam,in a manual transmission 9.5:1 compression 383, that cam will have a noticeable but subdued rumble to the exhaust note, and come noticeable alive at about 2600rpm without having a soggy just off idle response on the street in traffic,match that cam with those 180cc afr heads and a dual plane intake,
near perfect for what your intent as stated is, it will allow the wife to drive it without stalling it if she fails to drive the car like she just stole it yet easily allow you to get the corvette to run in the very low thirteen to mid 12 second range , if you set it up and tune it, and if you do drive with your foot mostly on the floor yet still cruise comfortably on the expressway at 70 mph all day, and with the 3.36:1 gear allow you to cruise and pass easily with a rush of torque that puts you back in your seat , without being intimidating to the wife
383do.png


btw that 2200-6350 rpm power band will kick in about 250 -300 rpm lower (1900 rpm)than it states in a 383, that listed power band assumes a common 350 is used damn near perfect for a manual trans corvette, used as daily transportation, with the heads and compression , gearing,headers,, intake as listed... no you won,t have max power, but you will have an instantly responsive
corvette thats still a blast to drive

bbcgasketma.png
 
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$_58.JPG


btw the block protector plate, is the flat steel "TAN" in this picture, hard plate that is about 1/8" thick, that mounts against the block behind the flywheel, it clamps between the bell housing , and block, that plate,helps protect the block from being damaged if the clutch or flywheel comes apart or loose at 6000 rpm
There are a lot of variables. 4.750 is the proper theoretic measurement from the face of the stud to the bell housing flange (contact surface with the back of the block). If you are using a block plate between the bell housing and block you have to figure this into the depth of the bell housing (add .132" and adjust the stud accordingly outward towards the block .132"). Flywheel thickness will also effect your geometry. A thinner flywheel moves the pressure plate away from the ideal contact point, as it moves forward the bearing and arm move forward, causing the outboard end of the fork to move rearward and cause increased pedal travel and effort. So the 4.750 measures to the back of the block because it is a constant measurement that never changes. It assumes you have a stock thickness flywheel. If the flywheel is thicker or thinner than stock you must also dial in the correct amount on the stud for this dimension. GM considers .960" as the "standard" flywheel thickness. So if your flywheel is .860 thick you need to move the stud forward another .100". Hopefully you are using a factory bell housing, because I don't know about McLeods, but Lakewood are almost impossible to get the geometry correct even with the adjustable stud.

GM has two stud lengths, 1.78 for the long throw out bearing and 1.48 for the short bearing which is what you should have. The Lakewood adjustable stud only provides up to 1.58 length. Barely enough to correct for the block plate and a resurfaced flywheel. The last Lakewood I worked with had .120 deeper than the stock bell housing to begin with, so proper geometry could never be achieved. If you get it correct with the clutch pedal pressed to the floor, the lower arm of your z bar that goes to the clutch will be pointing straight down. You never want it to go further rearward than that or you start stressing things with it going over center. It is okay for it to be slightly short of straight down towards the front of the car.

Good Luck! It can be terribly frustrating. I had the last trans in and out probably 7 or 8 times and never did get it right as long as I had the Lakewood on it.
 
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How come nobody ever mentions Nitrous anymore?

As for the side pipes, the pictures look pretty good and blow up nicely.
 
How come nobody ever mentions Nitrous anymore?

As for the side pipes, the pictures look pretty good and blow up nicely.
Its still used by dedicated drag racers.
Has become less popular with Superchargers & Turbo charging.
 
The TT is a 400. It has 10k on it. Nothing more.

Hmmm. I migh be able to buy back those TFS heads. The guy I sold it to I think has lost interest in building his 400 Pontiac. I think because there aren't enough races here.

I don't have any particular budget limitations; as there is no rush on this, I don't mind saving up before buying a next batch of parts. Just looking for a reasonable combination. It's to be a daily driver - not something edgy. So, presumably cast, not forged. Stamped rockers, not roller high-lift.
Hey now, if your gonna build a motor for your vette, it should at least be 400-450 hp with similar tq. What is in the TT 400 now? refresh it and just go with normally aspirated.
 
Thanks Grumpy. Piecing my thoughts and plans together.

I considered nitrous for the TT but NO2 is too difficult to come by over here and I didn't like the idea of having to arm and prime and check level etc every time I take it for a spin. I prefer just step on the loud pedal and go.

The TT, off the Procharger, makes about 400. The low end feels spongy. Compression is 8:1 On the Procharger I see 12 PSI of boost. What it makes is anyone's guess. All the internals are forged with the best I could afford- all the way up to the AFR Eliminator heads.

The TT has 9,000 miles on it.

Again, without it, the TT will sell for half a peanut.

I'm in no rush. I'm happy to save up for parts and build a nice stout, flexible. I look forward to another build.
 
I didn't think about the ritual needed, never had the experience of running a Nitrous car.
 
keep in mind a good deal of the reason your current TT supercharged, engines a bit less responsive than it might be until the supercharger kicks in as the rpms increase its efficiency is due to the current heads, port size, moderate compression ratio and cam timing all of which are designed more for more effective cylinder fill efficiency in the 3500 rpm-6000 rpm power band with a supercharger.
a lower duration cam, and smaller port cross sectional areas, plus a dual plane intake, on a well designed 383 , all effectively boost low rpm, off idle port air speeds , increasing responsiveness in off idle speed power, but at the same time they will tend to move the whole torque curve lower, and reduce peak power, that may sound like a bad trade-off but it only takes about 45 hp to cruise at 60 mph in a c3 corvette , having nearly 10 times that on tap, with a well designed 383, like I listed, which could easily have 450 hp and 490 ft lbs , if you depress the throttle, that still allows brisk performance.
no it won,t be faster than your current car but it could easily put several lengths on you off a standing start or from a 10 mph roll, yes you would quickly regain and pass the vette , but by that time you would likely be both hitting 60 mph
the N/A 383 SBC will be fun to drive and easier to control, it just trades peak power, above 4000 rpm for better street manors in the off idle to about 3500 rpm range
 
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