header gaskets

[Grumpy]

you can try re-tightening the clamping bolts

and if the exhaust header or manifold gaskets surface has not been damaged that should work, but if the gaskets damaged it will need to be replaced, thats one reason the soft copper gaskets are rather favored,
using anti-seize paste on bolt or stud threads helps prevent future problems
and failure to use anti-seize paste on any header or exhaust manifold bolt or stud will eventually cause problems ESPECIALLY if you use them on aluminum heads

What causes an exhaust manifold stud/bolt to break?

on aluminum head its almost alway's best to use studs to secure headers when you can,
as a stud has the threads full length engaged and very low stress , and significantly more surface area spreading the load,
than a bolt will ever allow,don,t forget too use anti-seize on the stud threads
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/header-gaskets.1045/page-2#post-55418
https://www.jegs.com/p/ARP/ARP-Exhaust-Header-Studs/744890/10002/-1

I would strongly suggest BOTH stainless bolts studs and the use of ANTI SEIZE on the threads
I would strongly suggest BOTH stainless bolts studs and the use of ANTI SEIZE on the threads

A: The exhaust manifolds are formed from the factory using fine grain cast iron, and like most metals, it expands and contracts during duty cycles of heating and cooling. This expansion happens naturally, and at first, the manifold and mounting studs are in a state of “elastic deformation.” Elastic deformation is basically expansion and contraction over a period of time retaining the original size and shape. Each duty cycle will provide tension stress on the studs or bolts that hold the manifold in place. The mounting hardware exhibits flexibility over time. However, as the manifold continues to expand and contract more dimensionally, each consecutive time creates larger and larger tension forces that move beyond the elastic state of deformation and become what is referred to as “plastic deformation.” Basically the manifold stretches beyond return and fractures the mounting stud, leaving the manifold permanently deformed and dimensionally changed. This expansion and stretching of the manifold bolts over numerous duty cycles eventually causes too much tension on the bolt(s), stretching them beyond capacity and causing them to fail.
I would point out that use of safety wired nuts and castle nuts with cotter pins, is in many applications, a separate,
and in my opinion better option ,
in that its both secure and easily removed if required, and less temp sensitive than chemical bonding agents.
yes obviously there are applications where loc-tite is the better option, and places where anti-seize and a castle nut and cotter pin or safety wire use is the best option.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...afety-wire-locking-fasteners.4306/#post-67524

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cotter-pins.4733/#post-12852

Information provided by: ProMaxx Tools[/quote]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kj-kmIbSQvk

https://www.northwestfastener.com/d...ket-cap-screw-alloy-steel-1-hole-s-plain.html

because they are hard to damage,



using safety wire pliers and drilled bolt heads helps reduce leaks
maybe this info will help,if you intend to use larger size exhaust primary tube header designs, on a sbc , (as I'mm sure you'll find out the exhaust manifold bolt hole locations make bolt and wrench clearance, when installing anything larger than about a 1 5/8" header tube,on most SBC engines , a P.I.T.A. and yes I've used them in the past

Yes theres a work-around that allows up to 2" tube headers to be used,
no they don,t squish the header tube narrow and taller
they suggest you use the adapter plates designed to make the installation of the larger diameter tubes much easier,
to allow the larger tube with more clearance and use a different bolt spacing and pattern,
look closely at the pictures of both the header and adapter
yes the holes in the adapter look small,
thats because, they correctly assume if you, or anyone else,
are using these they must be building a custom exhaust .
and either have prior experience or be willing to ask for instructions,
you WILL need to take the time and effort to custom machine and port match the plates exhaust port,
it needs too be ported larger to match your cylinder heads exhaust port shape and header primary tubes exact location,
yes this some times results in part of the recessed screw heads being machined away,
and no thats not an issue and yes copper header gaskets are commonly used

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...&submodel=&engine=&Nrpp=&No=&persistYmm=false

http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/67...MIqOvSi9Lt1gIVB4JpCh1DlAYNEAQYBSABEgL2rvD_BwE

http://www.jegs.com/i/Hooker/520/11...MIqOvSi9Lt1gIVB4JpCh1DlAYNEAQYASABEgKPDfD_BwE

used a generous application of ANTI-SEIZE,

on the flush mount socket head screws, in the adapter plates, that screw to the cylinder heads,
if you think about it its rather difficult for the adapter plate bolts to loosen as the header clamps them in place,
and I simply used one copper exhaust header gasket between the adapter plates and header flanges ,

I used a thick , sprayed on coat of copper coat gasket cement,between the adapter plates and cylinder heads and had zero leaks.

obviously locking the fasteners,with a fool proof locking system, once they are correctly tightened in place to clamp the gaskets firmly, so they can.t come loose is a smart precaution

http://www.wikihow.com/Lock-Wire-Drilled-Head-Bolts

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oOEbMsi ... fudEmnJNWo

drilling bolts

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGssNWC_2I8

http://www.homedepot.com/p/OOK-250-ft-x ... /100144004


http://www.amazon.com/SK-7716-Automatic ... reversible

in some cases you might choose cotter pins
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=4733&p=12852&hilit=cotter#p12852

HARBOR FREIGHT SELLS STAINLESS LOCK WIRE
http://www.harborfreight.com/0041-inch- ... -8895.html

 

[87vette81big]

I have had 50/50 luck using copper exhaust gaskets Grumpy.

Its ugly but Permatex Ultra Copper actually works great in place of gaskets.

Will let ya know how the Remflex graphite gaskets work.
Excellent reviews from racers on Yellow Bullet.
Were not terrible expensive to buy.

 

[Grumpy]

damn near anything works , for a header gasket at least for awhile, if the header flange is fairly flat and parallel to the cylinder heads exhaust port surface and you use fasteners that RETAIN a firm consistent clamp force, the problem most guys fail to recognize is that the repeated heat and cool cycling, tends to allow most header flanges to warp and bolts to slowly work their way out ward in the threads, once either condition or both happen the gasket clamp force varies and the gaskets leak.
design factors like thicker 3/8' and 1/2" header flanges. 14 and 12 ga tubes vs thinner 18 and 20 ga tubes ceramic coatings that slow heat loss rate all tend to reduce heat warping and the tendency for metal to expand and contract rapidly, which tends to aggravate the threaded fasteners backing out of the cylinder heads threads that hold the header flange problem.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/building-custom-headers.961/#post-56850

 

[87vette81big]

Hooker Super Comps #4202 are the best I can buy for my T/A.
Otherwise its pay $2,000 + for one of Lemon Headers or Kooks headers.
Not set up to build my own headers.
Need more $$$$ for the TIG welder to start.

The Current T/A headers are now 20 years old.
I had them Jet Hot Coated back in 2002.
Still nice. Some warpage on flanges.
Hand filed flat.
Some leakage with Copper gaskets.
ARP All stainless bolts and studs.
I use Nickle Anti sieze too.

If you recall I found and purchased another set of NOS Hooker Super Comp Headers last November 2014.
#4202 Also . 2.00" primary tubes.
3-1/2 inch collectors.

I estimate the Jet Hot coated Hookers have around 500-750 hours run time on them now.
Most spent WOT.

 

[philly]

usuall when you install headerswithout safety wires, you gotta retighten the bolts after the first few heat cycles and they should be fine after that..... wether or not tightening yours will cure the gasket leak only trying it will know.

 

[Grumpy]

With the recent (OK, 10-15 years) popularity of GM Vortec heads, I want to add this:

The GM Vortec heads (casting number 062) I bought new in 2015 have the exhaust ports raised approx .100"-.120" on the head relative to the manifold/header bolt holes. That means on most all cast iron manifolds (and on some headers) the gasket and/or sealing surfaces will cover up the top of the ports. And that's exactly where exhaust gas flow is the most intense!

Bottom line: Be sure to use a template or a gasket to ensure your header/manifold flanges and/or gaskets don't cover up the tops of the raised Vortec exhaust ports.

Here's an OE type gasket on stock GM Vortec head casting no. 062. You can where the ports are located relative to the bolt holes -- higher than on pre-1996 conventional head.

I used this Fel Pro gasket instead:

And I had to raise the openings on a pair of cast iron manifolds. Obviously, you'd be limited on how much material you could remove from headers. The good news is there's lots of gasket surface area on the heads.