Hello from france, 5.7l V8 on boat...

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protoandco

Member
Hello everyone,
I'm Romaric, from france,
My english is poor, please excuse me in advance for writings errors...
I discover your forum with amazing amount of informations on V8 5.7l motors.
Some members and some threads are highly technical, and very precise.

I'm here because a freind ( boat dealer ) ask me help on a motor mounted in a water skiing boat.
the two ( 2 ! ) previsous motors died maybe by oiling problem, so the mechanician of my mount a third (!) new reconditionned motor, he mount it with the support of my freind ( and me, but not always present ) to avoid a fault or a oversight, always seems ok, and they take the most possible of informations with a american car specialised mecanician, but after 2 hours of running slow ( "break" ? = "rodage" in french ), with oil pressure monitoring, etc ... i open the oil filter, and i found particle of crankshaft bearings inside...
He open the downside of the motor, and the crankshaft are indeed dead .... ....
It is missing a full of details, but maybe i have to post elswhere on the forum ?
I had to explain the mounting on the boat too, which is different of a car ( motor inclined, deep oilbox... ... )

We would be very greatful if you can help us... Tell me what details you need to previde help ... Pics too i think ? ...

Thanks you for welcoming me...
Romaric
 
I'm sure we can help, but it would help us to diagnose your issues,
a great deal if you could post details, like oil used, ignition advance curve, operational temps
casting numbers,spark plugs used, and related info
like part numbers and clear pictures of the engine, the engines installed in the boat,
and component parts being used like spark plugs and pictures of damaged parts.
marine engines REQUIRE different cams, that street car engines so,
you CAN NOT buy and install your typical auto, bargain crate engine
unless its been carefully modified,one reason is most marine engines use water cooled exhaust manifolds,
and cams designed for cars tend to suck water into the exhaust ports,
another is that any aluminum like heads or intakes or water pumps,
will rapidly be damaged if lake or ocean water is used as coolant
vs anti freeze
if your using a deep oil pan the oil pump pick-up must be changed to be within-
3/8"-1/2" (9mm-13mm) of the oil pan floor

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/installing-an-oil-pump-pick-up-tube.1800/
 
Last edited:
Hello,
I'm upload photos and post it as soon as possible, and try to give maximum details.

The reconditionned motor has been buy to a marine motor dealer ( official importator i belive for this marine motor), and installed et break-in according to their recommendations
 
ATTACHMENT_PHOTO_BOAT_762_ID_4428_lg.jpg






 
Here is a few pics, i've got no more for tonight, ( can take more monday ), I will take pics of the crankshaft bearings, and pics of particle in oil... And all that i thought is useful

Tell me if you need precise pics,

As you can see, there is a deepest oil pan,
The pump is a 7 teeth pump, the oil pickup is set up about 1/2 to 3/4 inch to the bottom of the oil pan, and the oil level is about 1,5 inch under the lowest point of the crankshaft.
Before the first engine start, the oil has been pump with electric screwdriver


I try to summarize all the story, and i post it here...

Thank you in advance for help...

Edit: And i check this AM, ( with the screwdriver on the pump ) the oil goes successfully to the rockers through the rods. With 3.5 bars at 400Rpm on the pump ( so 800 on crankshaft i belive, like idle throtle ... ) ( cold oil)
 
was there any indication of water in the cylinders or exhaust ports?
 
I dont carefully analyzed this, but for me no problem on this side
My freind talked to me about a modified camshaft, so for me it's ok.
Sparksplugs looks good, i will take pics for you
 
Hi,
I took many pictures this afternoon
20w50 were used for break-in, pressure ok, 3.5bar idle 5bar 2000rpm
and after with 15w40, but oil pressure goes above at 2 bars cold at idle, and falls rapidly at 1 bar, he stop immedialtly.
The ignition is set up to 8/10 ° before, as you can see on the pics, the motor is a reverse running engine, and the indication on the timing plate are false, "before" and "after" must be reversed....
Total hours of the motor is less of 2 hours... ....
The motor has an 12 degrees tilt in the boat .
The motor was buy to a professional marine motor dealer who import re-buildt engine from USA...

Here are the pics :
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/0d95nvqt7up4luz/AAC37xvvbLuwoqBMQC0hMJBya?dl=0
 
protoandco said:
Hi,
I took many pictures this afternoon
20w50 were used for break-in, pressure ok, 3.5bar idle 5bar 2000rpm
and after with 15w40, but oil pressure goes above at 2 bars cold at idle, and falls rapidly at 1 bar, he stop immedialtly.
The ignition is set up to 8/10 ° before, as you can see on the pics, the motor is a reverse running engine, and the indication on the timing plate are false, "before" and "after" must be reversed....
Total hours of the motor is less of 2 hours... ....
The motor has an 12 degrees tilt in the boat .
The motor was buy to a professional marine motor dealer who import re-buildt engine from USA...

Here are the pics :
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/0d95nvqt7up4luz/AAC37xvvbLuwoqBMQC0hMJBya?dl=0
Click to expand...
I think there is A Crankshaft Line Bore issue in the Chevy MARINE Block.
Needs to go to a top notch machine shop and checked out.
Need a Sunnen Long Reach Dial Bore Guage and bench standard to check correct.
 
Hello,
Thanks for the reply
Yesterday we rightly talk about the loose of mounting ... We talk about that with the motor seller and he says ti's ok. But...
My freind is boat mechanic and dealer, but for my part i'm machinist, with machine workshop.... I will measure all crank and bearings this afternoon...

The motor's sellers say us " the oil pan is wrong and your pickup is not good " ( he never see boat / mounting / pics ... .... ) and he say the pickup defused...

But for us it's good, can you confirm it's good as shown on the pics with marker pen on the oil pan ?
 
Hi,
We measure the clearances. Taper, roundness and barrel are under 0.0001inch
I took 6 measure for each main bearing,
We 've got -0.02 repaier size on all .
Clearance are :
bearing 1 ( timing gear side ) :0.001 inch
bearing 2 : 0.0011 inch
bearing 3 : 001 inch
bearing 4 : 0.001 inch
bearing 5 : 0.0021 inch

I will check roundness and size of the block caps
 
If the oil system ingested air under engine load its bad.
Most boats I have worked on with inboard engines have 9-12 quarts held in the sump of the oil pan.
If it can be done 3 gallons- 5 gallons ideal just like a 11 liter diesel truck holds.
 
Maniacmechanic1 said:
If the oil system ingested air under engine load its bad.
Most boats I have worked on with inboard engines have 9-12 quarts held in the sump of the oil pan.
If it can be done 3 gallons- 5 gallons ideal just like a 11 liter diesel truck holds.
Click to expand...

I'm ok with that,
The mecanician didn't do big runs or big curves, and looks everytime at oil level, i think there is no problem with air in oil circuit.

I think too a bigger is beter, but the motor's dealer said us "your oil pan is too deep ( the aluminium one ), put the small oil pan in metal sheet " ... .... ....

The original motor works 20 years with this deep oil pan...

Maniacmechanic1 said:
Have to check all 1st
Click to expand...

What do you mean, don't understand what is reffering to ? ( english is not my native language, sorry. )

Thanks
 
those bearing clearances sound really tight,

BTW, nice pictures it helps a great deal in seeing what your dealing with.
read the links and sub links
I would vastly prefer having .0024 -to-.0026 on the rods and mains

reading these links should help
https://translate.yandex.com/translator/English-French
https://translate.google.com/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...tion-of-crank-durring-short-blk-assembly.852/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/torque-specs-calculator-links-etc.1222/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearing-clearances.2726/page-2#post-88663

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-mods-that-help.2187/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-clearances-engine-builders-magazine.11965/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearings-and-oil-flow.150/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/a-few-questions-on-bearings.14466/#post-75272
 
Last edited:
Hello,
We will continue to disassembling the motor tomorow,

Can you tell me if a new crankshaft ( not regrind ) has a LH or RH rotation or that is indifférent. I notice there is a direction with regrinding crankshaft...
More pics and progression tomorow...

Thanks
 
protoandco said:
Hello,
We will continue to disassembling the motor tomorow,

Can you tell me if a new crankshaft ( not regrind ) has a LH or RH rotation or that is indifférent. I notice there is a direction with regrinding crankshaft...
More pics and progression tomorow...

Thanks
Click to expand...
Same crank standard or reverse rotation.
When polished after grinding it must be polished standard or reverse rotation per application Yes.
 
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