ITS good to see theres a few people out there that are aware we exist! but any "GURU status " is only the result of LEARNING from a ton of mistakes made, in the past, and the willingness to share what experience the more experienced members on the site have gained, and pointing out what did or did NOT work well. or as my dad said "only an idiot touches the red hot stove burner TWICE, most of us LEARN from our mistakes" & "if your going to be DUMB, you better be TOUGH because life's going to be hard & expensive, its better to be observant and learn from OTHER PEOPLES MISTAKES" CHECK ALL YOUR FUSES and electrical connections WITH A MULTI METER, but don,t assume you know what the problem is, let the facts lead you to the answers be aware that not all engine "MISSES" or "ticking sounds " that you might be dealing with or tying to correct, are an electrical or a fuel delivery or pressure issue, your problem might be a mechanical issue like a vacuum leak, from a busted hose,or loose gasket,a burnt valve, loose or worn timing chain,badly adjusted valves, broken or loose harmonic damper, loose flex plate, or torque converter bolt, busted valve spring, burnt or defective rocker, loose or worn valve guide, or a dozen other issues so try to logically isolate it to a cylinder or system, electrical,valve train, fuel delivery, exhaust , ignition ,etc. Ill add these tips. it usually helps, if your posting about a problem, and looking for help, if you post your physical location IE city & state as there are frequently local members with experience that might be willing to help diagnose and maybe help with the mechanical or electrical or tuning issues too cure the problem. (1) do EXTENSIVE research FIRST, before....... buying parts.... or starting a modification, that INCLUDES making a detailed parts list and researching , the sources, cost, manuals etc. IE FIND OUT whats necessary to do the job, and what results youll expect before you start (2) ITS a HUGE advantage to have the correct tools, things like engine cranes, diagnostic test equipment, welders,lifts, etc. may seem like a big expence thats not dirrectly moving your project forward, but there NECESSARY in some cases and ALWAYS make the project go faster and easier than trying to do without them. (3) work SAFELY, if you could get hurt doing something, chances are very good that you will eventually find out exactly WHY you should have done it the safe rather than the fast/easy way, if you don,t think it thru and use the correct tools and precautions (4)ITs almost ALWAYS better to have several friends help, on a project, having two or more guys thinking things thru improves your chances of getting it done correctly and safely,and keep in mind ,its always best to do your projects after helping a more experianced guy do something similar on his car so you have some experiance doing it, thus be ready and available to help your buddies withn thier projects and don,t avoid helping so you won,t get dirty, or have some free time thats used on other guys cars vs yours...in the long run it pays big to help others (5)ask questions and be sure you understand the answers, KNOWING what your doing before you start is a huge advantage (6)take pictures, label wireing, put small parts in labeled ziploc bags and take notes, use the manuals, and internet, and if something won,t fit or looks wrong research rather than forcing it with a bigger hammer WATCH THE VIDEO, READ THE LINKS http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CPqbaSg ... re=related http://www.chevythunder.com/fuel%20inje ... pg%20B.htm IF you start with checking for loose electrical connections and vacuum leaks you might find the problem, a propane torch is both safer and easier to use as a method to locate vacuum leaks check for vacuum leaks (DONT LIGHT IT) just SLIGHTLY open the valve so its allowing gas to flow at a low volume,start the engine and let it idle at the lowest speed you can then place the tip of the UNLIT torch at any suspected vacuum leak and listen for the rpms to increase and watch the tachometer, gas flowing into a vacuum leak will increase engine speed. Another possible quick test you can do relates to "clear flooded engine mode" if the car cranks but doesn't start and has fuel pressure, you can test by trying disconnecting the TPS sensor connection on the pass side of the throttle body,. This will kick the computer into limp home mode (setting a predetermined voltage) and the car will start after a time if you flooded the plenum in the intake look for loose or missing vacuum hoses, cracked or broken power brake connections, emissions system hoses that are loose, vacuum connections to the trans or ignition, loose connectors missing or loose bolts cracked hoses missing accessory connections etc. naturally this only locates leaks to the outside, and its possible for the intake to suck air from the lifter gallery, so that also needs to be checked if everything else seems to be ok. read this buy a CHEVY SHOP MANUAL FOR YOUR YEAR CORVETTE! set and verify your ignition timing, pull trouble codes,set your tps and iac,, then check for vacuum leaks on the lines and intake,then get out your multi meter and verify all the sensors, chances are good its a defective heat sensor or defective o2 sensor, a logical step by step approach will lead you to the problem, youll be amazed at what youll learn reading links. use of a shop manual and multi meter can be very helpful http://www.harborfreight.com/5-in-1-dig ... 98674.html FLUKE is the brand of choice but they are expensive, shop around, Ive still got the original fluke multi meter I bought in HIGH SCHOOL and it STILL WORKSIve purchase several from harbor freight , in the last 10 years alone and only one still works http://www.fluke-direct.com/shop/itemDe ... urer=FLUKE http://www.fluke-direct.com/shop/catego ... TERS&path= http://chevythunder.com/ a good quality if temp gun helps more than you might realize at diagnosing problems http://www.grainger.com/product/EXTECH- ... _-AllPages learn to use the factory shop manual, and a multi meter and LISTEN to the engine closely, tapping and high pitch whines can indicate defective injectors or fuel pressure regulators, fuel pumps,mis- adjusted valve train components, worn distributor parts, check all the fuses and electrical grounds and corrosion on connections thats something thats frequently over looked etc.