hello

welcome to the web site!
yeah pictures would be very helpful
 
not sure where to post and not good with computers. I have a 350 crate motor, 350th trans, & a 7.5 ford 3.45 ratio one wheeled wonder for a rear end. bought it this way and it has issues, a very slight lope at 650 rpm idle that surges when put in gear, barely chirps the tire from a stop. my thoughts toward the engine are vortec heads with ls6 valve springs and roller rockers ( aluminum or steel for a street engine? ) and a 222@.050 110 cam. it has a 600 afb edlebrock with a wieand 8004 intake I would need to replace, block hugger shorty headers. I am reading up to get an idea of what should be done. any input on where im going wrong or right would be appreciated.
 
start here and read sub links
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ch-quest-series-similar-350-383-sbc-info.519/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bare-minimum-tools.11026/#post-48766

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-calculators-and-basic-math.10705/#post-46737

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...k-for-in-a-good-engine-combo.9930/#post-46399

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/a-basic-350-build.8929/#post-31758

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ild-a-350-or-a-383-sbc-combo.8310/#post-28891

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ines-budgets-and-those-deals.6624/#post-20986

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bits-of-383-info.38/#post-46

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...le-that-don-t-use-resources.12125/#post-58374

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-displacement-street-engine.10961/#post-48577
 
Grumpy said:
start here and read sub links
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ch-quest-series-similar-350-383-sbc-info.519/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bare-minimum-tools.11026/#post-48766

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-calculators-and-basic-math.10705/#post-46737

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...k-for-in-a-good-engine-combo.9930/#post-46399

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/a-basic-350-build.8929/#post-31758

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ild-a-350-or-a-383-sbc-combo.8310/#post-28891

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ines-budgets-and-those-deals.6624/#post-20986

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bits-of-383-info.38/#post-46

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...le-that-don-t-use-resources.12125/#post-58374

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-displacement-street-engine.10961/#post-48577
Click to expand...
much appreciated
 
Hey there Hotrod Coupe.
What are you looking to accomplish with the car?
Personally some of the pretty parts (in my opinion) people try to sell us are poor investments. Example: Unless you are running high spring pressures and high lift cam I don't know where the average guy is going to gain from roller rockers.
There are decades of strong street motors with long slot GM stamped steel rockers. Today I would look at a moderate roller cam simply because today's over the counter oil lacks the proper additive for flat tappit cams.
As for some late model heads make sure the exhaust ports are not radically repositioned or you exhaust manifold will be suspect. Tunnel Rams and dual carbs are often show (and headaches) rather than go unless you can turn enough RPM to leverage the technology.
Remember you are a short wheelbase light car so a little extra power makes a big differance.
Also if your neutral idle is only 600-650 what is it in gear. This may result in an in-gear idle of 500-550 and may be part of the surge at idle.
As for the open rear end... Good place for a simple posi upgrade.
My 2 cents.
 
I think a good deal of the build process will be guided by the goal you have in mind for the completed car.
having a defined plan and precise goal will save you a great deal of time and wasted effort during the build

related info,
yeah theres a ton of related info,
but time spent reading the links,
(a day or so in most cases)
and related,sub-links, can and usually will save you weeks of work ,
and thousands of dollars in cash wasted on the wrong parts,
and badly done machine work,
keep in mind one of the main reasons I started this web site was..
to help prevent the time and wasted effort that not knowing exactly whats needed and how to correctly assemble parts you need to build exactly what you want, TOO ACCOMPLISH, as money spent & wasted on the wrong parts or machine work being that needs too be re-done , are all too common, in most guys first few engine builds , experience from mistakes made,is an expensive teacher

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...r-basic-performance-concepts.9731/#post-52498

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-parts-and-a-logical-plan.7722/#post-26314

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/block-prep.125/page-2#post-48605

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tbucket-engine-project-dart-shp.3814/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...nk-durring-short-blk-assembly.852/#post-21611

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ilding-a-dream-or-wasting-cash.775/#post-1125

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...k-about-in-your-engine-combo.3156/#post-59958

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...the-links-you-posted-grumpy.12020/#post-57517

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ting-started-in-the-car-hobby.339/#post-52906

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bare-minimum-tools.11026/#post-51843

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...istakes-but-learn-from-them.11333/#post-51640

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-calculators-and-basic-math.10705/#post-50173
 
Last edited:
What he said...
If you want a driver then step back and define your version of what that is.
If you want a race car then define what that is to you. At some point we have all had a project that started without clear definitions. It typically costs more in the long run and it is more stress.
Read ALL the links Grumpy sent you as I suspect anyone with that many relevant links has read them and thus why he sent them. I'm going to do the same. Heck... I'm a gear head and it is what I do. :)

Have fun!!
 
lots of great reading! seams that my ideas were a bit lofty in numbers but sound in thought. my goal is a fun car with gobs of low and midrange torque where its fun. after looking at the 1/4 mile hp calculator I am probably around 150 hp, my stock 2003 mini cooper s is faster. a goal of 350-375 hp is probably more realistic, something don't seam right with the motor. i'm shure I will have to replace the 7.5 ford rear end with something stronger with a posi. would like an overdrive and am not set on a 5 speed or 700r4. replacing the 76 cc open chamber heads with vortecs looks like a good swap to me. the 600 afb edlebrock carb i'd think would work with a new manifold, thinking airgap dual plane, and possibly upgrading the header/ exhaust system. planning on working on engine with it in the coupe, bolt up assembly mostly but fate and future is a unknown factor. I said my coupe was 2000# but looks like it is more like 2500# need to weigh it at a truck station, I grew up reading pop's hot rod collection 55-67 and always liked the engines with roller rockers, gear drives, six pack manifolds, im shure what I build wont need the first two and a four barrel works better but they shure looked great. lots more reading, diagnostic testing, and will see how things go. reading links and any input is appreciated.
 
Hey Hotrod! I'm going to do a post on Electronic Fuel Injection over the next day or two that will spark your interest.
In my opinion (IMO) an honest 350-400 HP on a driver at 2500lb will be impressive as long as you can get a broad power curve cam. As for the rear end... May not need to replace it if you can upgrade the internal parts. Example: many Chevy guys want a 12 bolt when they have a functional 10 bolt that can be internally upgraded to take 1000hp. Another case of show vs go.
If similar internal upgrades can be performed on your existing unit then look hard at that. Then when you do pull your front wheels and blow down a 150mph pass the kids will all be wondering how you pulled it off.
BTW... That coupe at 100mph may loose the windshield inward. I speak from experience. Granted for me it was a T-Bucket but it was an OMG moment! If you are seriously going to push that glass like that look at reinforcement or replacing it with Lexan (spelling may be different).

Cheers
 
As for the overdrive. It comes down to engine rpm at a given mph for most people. Look for an online calculator and play with some numbers ( tire sizes, rear gear ratios, RPMs, etc) to see what combination gives you what you really want. I'm running 28" rear tires and 3.31:1 rear posi with a Muncie 4 speed.... At 6500rpm (my self imposed limit) I am at 100mph in 3rd!
My Camaro is about 3400lb and 496 ci so I can tolerate the tall gears better than most and I DRIVE the heck out of it. I may eventually go with a 5'speed for strength of a modern trans although when I do it will include going down to 3.90 or so gears. The stock ride Camaro at 160+ would stupid.
 
Mark is totally correct and stole allot of the words out of my mouth. Do research make a plan stick to it. That rear should be fine if you can upgrade it for your goals. But play with the calculators that is what I did looked at where I wanted my rpms to be at highway speeds. So when I take the 3 hr drive to a car show it is enjoyable and not obnoxious. Or my drive to work and back which is most of my driving.
 
thanks for input and agree that a flat torque curve in the low and midrange is what I need. I will see what I can find on a 7.5 ford, like how it looks, but all I have read is they're weak 4 cylinder rear end and being a live axle I will probably step up and get a posi with the new one. I want the overdrive for gas mileage, I am sure the 350th would give all performance needed. thought about your comment on the torque converter and without a tach would I notice on rpm change, didn't know a stock converter went so low, need to install a tach soon.
 
You can get a 700r4 pretty cheap to meet your power goals. You are not talking a huge hp build what about tires you planning a drag radial. Hooking up is what breaks parts
 
I just did a monster post (Electronic Fuel Injection vs Carburation) of the parts and pieces of an EFI install on my '68 Camaro. If you are looking to upgrade it is a good start.
 
as for tires they will be street, don't recall exact width but I believe around 255 60 15 on the rear with coil over shocks and parallel 4 bar suspense on, I would think with both wheels driving it would hook up quite well on my coupe. the guy did a nice job widening the rear fenders. will check out fuel injection but pretty sure I will stay in the past with carburation, have the hood off and open engine, willing to sacrifice tech for looks at times.
 
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