Help me get started with my engine design

SkidZ

Member
Here's the scenario.

The Car: 1988 C4 Coup. 700R4 Auto. It currently has just the 2.59 rear gears, but I'm more than willing to change that. I also currently have a 2400 stall converter, but I can get it reflashed to a higher stall.

Goals: I'd like to be able to run low/mid 12's with no power adders. What kind of horsepower am I looking at for times like that? The car's not a daily driver, but I'd like it to not have drivabilty or reliability issues. I like to be able to hop in and take a 1000 mile trip without worrying about it.

This may seem silly, but I'd like it to have that lopey, muscular idle. Maybe something from the Comp. Cams Thumper series?

I'd like to use my current intake:
Accel Super Ram Base
SLP runners
Ported plenum.

I'll have long tube headers and 2 1/2" true duals with an H pipe.

OK. I always figured I'd go the tried and true 383 stroker route, but I recently have found a clean and well checked 400 block that I can buy for $150.

Now. Should I still go 383 or take advantage of the 400 block.

For the 383 can you recommend a rotating assembly, heads and cam.

For the 400 can you recommend how to build it. (longer rods? Internally balanced?) Recommend rotating assembly, heads and cam.

I may be doing this backwards, but I figured I'd look at the prices of the recommended components and machining costs. See how much they'll total up to be. Then see if I need to adjust my goals downward or maybe even can raise them upward.

Ok. That's the start. If there's any more info that I need to supply let me know. I'm sure I'll be asking more than my share of questions during this process.

I'm really looking forward to progressing this forward. I'm starting this now, because I'm planning on the build next year and I want to make sure I have a solid plan in advance of purchasing parts and starting any needed machine work.

Thanks in advance.

Edit: There are no emissions testing where I live so that will not be a part of the equation.
 
Goals: I'd like to be able to run low/mid 12's with no power adders. What kind of horsepower am I looking at for times like that?

http://www.wallaceracing.com/et-hp-mph.php

assuming your car with you in it weights about 3550lbs you'll want to have about 380-390 rear wheel hp...360rwhp will meet your goal)

ok, lets use as much of what you currently have as we can to save cash!

"I'd like to use my current intake:
Accel Super Ram Base
SLP runners
Ported plenum."
why not its ok for your goal,Id suggest a 2800-3000rpm stall converter,and Id sure use the 400 block if it tests ok, to build a 406- 408 sbc, get some 3.45:1-3.73:1 rear gears installed
discuss the rotating assembly with these guys, tell them you want to build a durable, and fully street able, and dependable 406-408 sbc with about 9.7:1 cpr to allow crappy gas to be tolerated, and take their advice on rod length, but ID suggest the 5.7" rods, with 7/16" ARP cap screw rod bolts,and a stroker clearance design to clear the cam lobes, because the cam clearance will be close but get dished forged pistons and an internally balanced rotating assembly to have about 9.7:1 cpr, that will require about a .018-.021 thick head gasket if the blocks not decked and a 22-24cc dished piston with those 64cc heads
and get 38 lb-40 lb injectors

http://ohiocrank.com/chevsb_rotate.html

these heads
http://www.jegs.com/i/Brodix/158/1011006/10002/-1

this cam (to give you that slight lope to the idle)

with 1.6:1 roller rockers on the intake and 1.5:1 ratio roller rockers on the exhaust, to maximize the mid rpm torque

http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam ... &x=42&y=12

Id suggest a 3" exhaust, but you might get by with the current one


if anyone's got a dd2000 or similar program please post a dyno result, the objects not peak hp but massive mid rpm tq and street drivable rpm range power
 
That's excellent stuff, Grumpy. Thanks for the advice and the quick response.

This is exactly what I'm looking for.
the objects not peak hp but massive mid rpm tq and street drivable rpm range power

Now I have a great starting point to start looking at parts and do some number crunching.
 
Back
Top