Hi from Germany

Discussion in 'general muscle car related info' started by 55C150, Sep 22, 2017.

  1. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    You can mix & match air bleeds as needed.

    What is the driving cruising fuel pressure ?
    What is it pulling hard in 3rd or 4th gear top end 90-120 mph ?
    At least 80 mph ?
    If out of spec pressure drops off your beating a dead horse tuning.
     
  2. Indycars

    Indycars Administrator Staff Member

    You could, but typically since we are talking about the IDLE air bleeds they would be all
    the same. Just like all 4 mixture screws are typically set the same.

    What problem are you trying to solve by setting the IAB's different?
     
  3. 55C150

    55C150 Well-Known Member

    It was a idea to fix the problem temporarly, but I got the IFR's yesterday.
    But it was too late for me, we where out for a 650 miles trip. The 55 did it well, the driving was a bit on the rich side under 2.5oo rpm. our travel speed was 80 mph and a bit more at this range the AFR was 14.4 up to 15.1. My high speed for a few seconds was 105 when I tried to make an Audi driver angry ;)


    I can't tell. I am still waiting for my fuel pressure gauge. I only installed the typical under the hood gauge.
     
  4. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    Living Dangerous on the Edge.
    I am sure you know that.
     
  5. Indycars

    Indycars Administrator Staff Member

    Well let us know when you make the next change.
     
  6. 55C150

    55C150 Well-Known Member

    I changed the IFR from .035 to .033, the tendency is the right way, still a little rich from idle to 2.000 rpm. WOT is way too rich, I got 11.4 AFR. But first I will finish the idle and cruise range, than I will tune WOT.
     
  7. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer. Staff Member

  8. 55C150

    55C150 Well-Known Member

    Did anyone know a carb shop where I can order 10/32 air bleeds in 3/16" length? I have 1/4" length and they are too long. They work but I got a whistling sound when the engine runs. I need two sizes .069 and .068.
     
  9. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer. Staff Member

  10. 55C150

    55C150 Well-Known Member

    I need set screws. The guy who send me the other ones answered me. He can send me the ones I need.
     
  11. 55C150

    55C150 Well-Known Member

    I ordered a new steering box for the 55. It is more complicated to get the old one out than I thought. But it is possible without taking the front apart I think. I'm waiting for a two arm puller to get the steering arm off. After that it would be possible to get it out.
    The new steering box is a quick ratio 16:1 manual from Lares.

    [​IMG]
     
  12. 55C150

    55C150 Well-Known Member

    I worked on the carb again. Pulled the pressed in high speed air bleeds out, cutted a 6/32 thread in and screwed the new air bleeds in.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    The new steering box is in, but I'm waiting for small parts to put the column back.
     
  13. 55C150

    55C150 Well-Known Member

    Last Wednesday I finished the work on the new steering box. We drove 800 miles last weekend. No big problems. We drove 70 - 80 mph and had 17 mpg. The carburetor is working great now. WOT could a bit leaner.
     
  14. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer. Staff Member

    you might want to try reducing the secondary jets 1-2 sizes if WOT is too rich
     
    Strictly Attitude likes this.
  15. 55C150

    55C150 Well-Known Member

    I found a bad thermostat and replaced it, hopefully my engine temperature problem is solved.
    I increased the size of the high speed air bleeds and will check WOT later today or tomorrow. If WOT is still too rich I reduce the size of the sec. main jet.
    I also decreased the size of the IFR to get a better adjustable idle, it didn't worked like I was thinking, but it is a bit more sensitive than before.
     
  16. 55C150

    55C150 Well-Known Member

    I made that experiance before, but everytime it is a small wonder how much 1-2° less vacuum advance effect the performance of the engine.
    Yesterday I drove at a nice landscape, good straight streets between the woods. I was rolling around 40 mph and there was a tractor on my lane, I changed the lane and gave full throttle. The engine accelartes for 2 seconds and than there was a rattle sound and the power was nearly gone for 2 or 3 seconds, I lifted lightly my foot and the power came back.
    A few minutes later I parked on the side of the street and decreased the advance of the vacuum by 2°.
    Than I reproduced the scene without the tractor and the engine accelates great, strong power thru the red line.
    I only wonder why I didn't had these problem before this season, I had very similar situations this season.
     
  17. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    Fuel quality octane level.
    It varies pump gas.
     

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