home or small shop wheel alignment tools ETC.

Discussion in 'Suspension and Brakes: Repairs and Modifications' started by Grumpy, Jan 30, 2016.

  1. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer. Staff Member

    http://www.quicktrickalignment.com/

    http://www.advantagewheelalignment.com/Lazer_Align.html

    http://www.advantagewheelalignment.com/Tech_Article.html

    http://www.180athletics.com/home/onlinestore.htm

    http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/hrdp-0411-wheel-alignment-guide/

    http://speed.academy/diy-wheel-alignment-how-to-guide-explained/

    1. [​IMG]
      http://www.homedepot.com/p/Powerbuilt-23-Piece-Ball-Joint-U-Joint-Service-Kit-648617/203120548?cm_mmc=Shopping|THD|G|0|G-BASE-PLA-D25T-Garage-Automotive|&gclid=CM7-rI-e-tQCFUa4wAodcnEHfg&gclsrc=aw.ds
    DIY: Alignment, thats right align your car at home with simple tools.
    So I have never had good luck with commercial alignment shops. To say my experiences have been horrible would be an understatement. So when it came time to replace the suspension on my WRX, I contemplated selling it rather than have to go to an alignment shop again (yeah that bad). Instead I decided to try it myself, how hard could it be right?

    But Why?

    It's not voodoo or magic, although those fancy $30k machines at the big box alignment store make you think so. Aligning is just a small series of measurements and adjustments done methodically. The best part of doing it yourself, is that if you don't quite get it right the first time you can tweak it to your liking.

    Another reason to DIY is because most big box places wont do a custom alignment outside factory specs. Some techs don't know how to cause that fancy machine they use is meant for speed, ease of use and repeatability, because time is money.

    Additionally, if you take your car in for alignment often times the techs just hit "within factory spec" which can be a huge range. For example my last big box alignment had the drivers side front wheel at -.1deg camber and the pass side front wheel at -.5 deg camber. Most Techs are paid flat rate, so they are more interested in maximizing throughput than maximizing quality.

    But How?
    First you need to know what you are working with. There are tons of resources online to help explain what you are going to be adjusting. But basically it breaks down to 4 things; Camber, caster, toe, thrust angle.

    Shamelessly stolen from here camber, caster, toe, thrust angle defined very well:

    Camber
    The camber angle identifies how far the tire slants away from vertical when viewed directly from the front or back of the vehicle. Camber is expressed in degrees, and is said to be negative when the top of the tire tilts inward toward the center of the vehicle and positive when the top leans away from the center of the vehicle.


    Since street suspensions cannot completely compensate for the outer tire tipping towards the outside when the vehicle leans in a corner, there isn't a magical camber setting that will allow the tires to remain vertical when traveling straight down the road (for more even wear), and remain perpendicular to the road during hard cornering (for more generous grip).
    Different driving styles can also influence the desired camber angle as well. An enthusiastic driver who corners faster than a reserved driver will receive more cornering grip and longer tire life from a tire aligned with more negative camber. However with the aggressive negative camber, a
    reserved driver's lower cornering speeds would cause the inside edges of the tires to wear faster than the outside edges.

    Caster
    The caster angle identifies the forward or backward slope of a line drawn through the upper and lower steering pivot points when viewed directly from the side of the vehicle. Caster is expressed in degrees and is measured by comparing a line running through the steering system's upper and lower pivot points (typically the upper and lower ball joints of an A-arm or wishbone suspension design, or the lower ball joint and the strut tower mount of a McPherson strut design) to a line drawn perpendicular to the ground. Caster is said to be positive if the line slopes towards the rear of the vehicle at the top, and negative if the line slopes towards the front.



    A very visual example of positive caster is a motorcycle's front steering forks. The forks point forward at the bottom and slope backward at the top. This rearward slope causes the front tire to remain stable when riding straight ahead and tilt towards the inside of the corner when turned.
    Caster angle settings allow the vehicle manufacturer to balance steering effort, high speed stability and front end cornering effectiveness.
    Increasing the amount of positive caster will increase steering effort and straight line tracking, as well as improve high speed stability and cornering effectiveness. Positive caster also increases tire lean when cornering (almost like having more negative camber) as the steering angle is increased.

    Toe
    The toe angle identifies the exact direction the tires are pointed compared to the centerline of the vehicle when viewed from directly above. Toe is expressed in either degrees or fractions-of-an-inch, and an axle is said to have positive toe-in when imaginary lines running through the centerlines of the tires intersect in front of the vehicle and have negative toe-out when they diverge. The toe setting is typically used to help compensate for the suspension bushings compliance to enhance tire wear. Toe can also be used to adjust vehicle handling.
    A rear-wheel drive vehicle "pushes" the front axle's tires as they roll along the road. Tire rolling resistance causes a little drag resulting in rearward movement of the suspension arms against their bushings. Because of this, most rear-wheel drive vehicles use some positive toe-in to compensate for the movement, enabling the tires to run parallel to each other at speed.
    Conversely, a front-wheel drive vehicle "pulls" the vehicle through the front axle, resulting in forward movement of the suspension arms against their bushings. Therefore most front-wheel drive vehicles use some negative toe-out to compensate for the movement, again enabling the tires to run parallel to each other at speed.
    Toe can also be used to alter a vehicle's handling traits. Increased toe-in will typically result in reduced oversteer, help steady the car and enhance high-speed stability. Increased toe-out will typically result in reduced understeer, helping free up the car, especially during initial turn-in while entering a corner.
    Before adjusting toe outside the vehicle manufacturer's recommended settings to manipulate handling, be aware that toe settings will influence wet weather handling and tire wear as well.
    Excessive toe settings often bring with them drivability problems, especially during heavy rain. This is because the daily pounding of tractor trailers on many highways leave ruts that fill with water. Since excessive toe means that each tire is pointed in a direction other than straight ahead, when the vehicle encounters a puddle that causes only one tire to lose some of its grip, the other tire's toe setting will push (excessive toe-in) or pull (excessive toe-out) the vehicle to the side. This may make the vehicle feel unsettled and very "nervous."
    Additionally the vehicle's toe is one of the most critical alignment settings relative to tire wear. A toe setting that is just a little off its appropriate setting can make a huge difference in their wear. Consider that if the toe setting is just 1/16-inch off of its appropriate setting, each tire on that axle will scrub almost seven feet sideways every mile! Extend it out and you'll discover that rather than running parallel to each other, the front tires will scrub over 1/4-mile sideways during every 100 miles of driving! Incorrect toe will rob you of tire life.
    Thrust Angle
    The thrust angle is an imaginary line drawn perpendicular to the rear axle's centerline. It compares the direction that the rear axle is aimed with the centerline of the vehicle. It also confirms if the rear axle is parallel to its front axle and that the wheelbase on both sides of the vehicle is the same.

    If the thrust angle is not correct on a vehicle with a solid rear axle, it often requires a trip to the frame straightening shop to correctly reposition the rear axle.
    A vehicle with independent rear axles may have incorrect toe-in or toe-out on both sides of the axle, or may have toe-in on one side and toe-out on the other. The suspension on each side of the vehicle must be adjusted individually until it has reached the appropriate toe setting for its side of the vehicle.
    An incorrect thrust angle is often caused by an out-of-position axle or incorrect toe settings. So in addition to the handling quirks that are the result of
    incorrect toe settings, thrust angles can also cause the vehicle to handle differently when turning one direction vs. the other.


    if you have a trusted or favorite lazer style wheel alignment system ,
    or tools please post related info and pictures
     
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2018

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