Houston, I think we have a problem...

DorianL

DorianL

solid fixture here in the forum
Staff member
Right - coolant has been going missing for a little while now. Several months? I always thought there was a leak somewhere, but I can't really find it.

Anyway, I topped off my coolant yesterday (a few quarts were missing) and drove about 100 miles... let it cool then had to add another quart!

I got suspicious when after the 100 mile drive back, idling at a stoplight, I saw in the rearview wispy exhaust... steam?!?!?! The condensation should have cleared out by now.

Will check this evening to see how much I need to add now. But last time I checked... there was no bubbling in the radiator.

Hmmm, I was planning on a rebuild right about now... going to used forged low comrpression pistons + some other hardened parts and aim for a little more power...
 
sounds like youve got an internal coolant leak, hopefully is just a head gasket, or intake gasket, seeping coolant (common on engines with as much power as yours) especially when you use a O.E.M. block ,I hope its not a cracked block, obviously that will cost more and take longer to repair,if its the head they are easy, and fairly cheap to get welded and re-machined
 
That is sorta where I was figuring...

What is the risk of hydrolocking at igntion... presumably not a good idea to drive this around?

Hmmmm, and the vapor, if that is what it is, is coming out of BOTH tailpipes...

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Da Ultimate Plan
My intention was to pull out the engine and trans this winter to detail the engine bay and go over the wiring yet again... (BTW ever since I rewired engine start up is far more reliable electricals far more positive.)

Also I was planning to uptick the power till +/-700 by sending boost into low teens on low compression forged pistons. Will start another thread on that. ;)

D.
 
DorianL said:
That is sorta where I was figuring...

What is the risk of hydrolocking at igntion... presumably not a good idea to drive this around?

Hmmmm, and the vapor, if that is what it is, is coming out of BOTH tailpipes...

it will only get worse , and more expensive to correct it,if not corrected as quickly as you can manage

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Da Ultimate Plan
My intention was to pull out the engine and trans this winter to detail the engine bay and go over the wiring yet again... (BTW ever since I rewired engine start up is far more reliable electricals far more positive.)

Also I was planning to uptick the power till +/-700 by sending boost into low teens on low compression forged pistons. Will start another thread on that. ;)

D.
Click to expand...

I would strongly consider a DART block, if your current blocks cracked

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=47

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=2229

http://www.dartheads.com/wp-content/upl ... -Block.pdf
 
Dorian, stop driving it!

Yes, the only problem is shipping and customs. Typically I ship using APO... a block will have to be shipped surface... the come customs and vat... so add 60%. Eeeeek!

Still... Hmmmmmmmmmm...
 
Looking on Summit - looks like I'd need a new crank as well (350 mains)
 
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ESP-B12500030/
Brand Eagle Specialty Products
Manufacturer's Part Number B12500030
Part Type Engine Rotating Kits
Product Line Eagle Competition Rotating Assemblies
Summit Racing Part Number ESP-B12500030

Actual Engine CID 406
Bore (in) 4.155 in.
Bore (mm) 105.537mm
Engine Stroke (in) 3.750 in.
Pistons Included Yes
Piston Rings Included Yes
Piston and Ring Oversize (in) 0.030 in.
Piston Material Forged aluminum
Piston Style Dish, with a D-shaped cup
Piston Head Volume (cc) +21.00cc
Wrist Pin Style Floating
Piston Ring Facing Material Plasmamoly
Crankshaft Included Yes
Crankshaft Material Forged 4340 steel
Rear Main Seal Style 2-piece
Balanced Yes
Engine Balance Internal
Connecting Rods Included Yes
Connecting Rod Material Forged 4340 steel
Connecting Rod Beam Style H-beam
Rod Bearings Included Yes
Rod Bearing Undersize (in) Stock
Rod Bearing Undersize (mm) Stock
Main Bearings Included Yes
Main Bearing Undersize (in) Stock
Main Bearing Undersize (mm) Stock
Cam Bearings Included No
Gaskets Included No
Oil Pump Included No
Camshaft Included No
Lifters Included No
Timing Chain and Gears Included No
Plastigage Included No
Assembly Lubricant Included No
Quantity Sold as a kit.
Notes 400 cubic inch main journal. Assembly includes file fit piston rings and inverted dome design pistons. Suitable up to 750 horsepower, 1500 horsepower with rod bolt upgrade.


Eagle competition rotating assemblies consist of name-brand quality components for a wide range of applications at an affordable price. Depending upon your application, these kits may feature a crankshaft, pistons, piston rings, rod and main bearings, or connecting rods. Balanced assemblies are also available.

Warranty
 
Brand Eagle Specialty Products
Manufacturer's Part Number B12500030
Part Type Engine Rotating Kits
Product Line Eagle Competition Rotating Assemblies
Summit Racing Part Number ESP-B12500030

Actual Engine CID 406
Bore (in) 4.155 in.
Bore (mm) 105.537mm
Engine Stroke (in) 3.750 in.
Pistons Included Yes
Piston Rings Included Yes
Piston and Ring Oversize (in) 0.030 in.
Piston Material Forged aluminum
Piston Style Dish, with a D-shaped cup
Piston Head Volume (cc) +21.00cc
Wrist Pin Style Floating
Piston Ring Facing Material Plasmamoly
Crankshaft Included Yes
Crankshaft Material Forged 4340 steel
Rear Main Seal Style 2-piece
Balanced Yes
Engine Balance Internal
Connecting Rods Included Yes
Connecting Rod Material Forged 4340 steel
Connecting Rod Beam Style H-beam
Rod Bearings Included Yes
Rod Bearing Undersize (in) Stock
Rod Bearing Undersize (mm) Stock
Main Bearings Included Yes
Main Bearing Undersize (in) Stock
Main Bearing Undersize (mm) Stock
Cam Bearings Included No
Gaskets Included No
Oil Pump Included No
Camshaft Included No
Lifters Included No
Timing Chain and Gears Included No
Plastigage Included No
Assembly Lubricant Included No
Quantity Sold as a kit.
Notes 400 cubic inch main journal. Assembly includes file fit piston rings and inverted dome design pistons. Suitable up to 750 horsepower, 1500 horsepower with rod bolt upgrade.


Eagle competition rotating assemblies consist of name-brand quality components for a wide range of applications at an affordable price. Depending upon your application, these kits may feature a crankshaft, pistons, piston rings, rod and main bearings, or connecting rods. Balanced assemblies are also available.

Warranty


are the high lighted areas compatible with both the block you selected and the damper and flex plate balance??
 
Right. Just checked. A quart or two missing. Going to pull the plugs and spin the engine this weekend. If it's a gasket issue... That's all I'll replace. I'll leave the full rebuild for down the road... As Marianne said... It's good to drive it as well, not just hotrod it...
 
Right... I priced this out. A proper rebuild with what I have in mind will have to be for a year or two from now.

I think what I will do now is:

- Pull engine and fix it hoping it is not a cracked block
- Detail the engine bay
- Go over all details - wiring, rust, plumbing... (while the engine is out)

Hmmm, I think the rebuild for big horsepower can be a self-contained future project... and with adequate funding. The pistons in the Summit kit are -21 cc. Giving me roughly 8.7:1 compression. I'd rather pay more and get -36 cc pistons. Lower the compression and raise the boost. Possibly Dart block it.

IF my block is not cracked (it did freeze once and a a couple of plugs got pushed out) then it should be in healthy condition with very little wear - never been rebuilt or overbored.

IF it is still in good shape... then I will replace the head gasket, fix cracked head or... whatever.

At this point, I think it makes sense to get the ride perfectly stable: all wiring stout, plumbing beyond suspicion, cooling, trans... everything get a once over so there is no doubt.

THEN when rebuild time comes... I just do it!
 
Still - while I am at it: oil pan with baffles/kickouts + windage tray.

New oil pump...

Possibly an oil cooler...
 
Hmmmm. I carefully watched the exhaust pipes. Both sides steam on and off. The white smoke clear up for a few seconds then puffs some clouds then clears up again.
 
hate to say it, but it sounds like a good tear down and careful inspection of all the components is the only real choice you've got at this point!
 
No worries. I'm looking fw to this project. Will start a new thread. This'll be good. Hot yellow engine. Possibly jet hot headers. Details... This'll be cool. Anything but a cracked block. Eeeek.
 
I never cared for pulling a head unless absolutely necessary... Hmmm...

Should I see lots of bubbles in the radiator? Anything else I can do before this? I read somewhere pulling plugs and turning over to see if it spits water out...

Check oil to see if milky...

I have a buddy of mine who can put the radiator under pressure.

Again the idle is excellent. It fires up right away - nothing seems to indicate a problem other than that smoke and dropping water level. Hmmmmmmmm perhaps a leak that I missed? Hmmmmmmm
 
Thanks chief... good reading!

Looking at the bubles that come out of rad and amount of vapor (?) comping out of BOTH tail pipes... not quite convinced this is coolant coming out of the exhaust...

Compared to what I have seen on youtube... I don't have that much white vapors coming out the tailpipe. It might be the cold weather is misleading me...

Let's see if my buddy can put this under pressure.

Hmmmm
 
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