one of the local guys has a 1966 nova the engine dropped a valve and the engine oil pans full of coolant, he asked me if I would suggest a cheap crate engine replacement, as he has 279K miles on the car and feels hes not going to be able to rebuild the existing core.
he uses the car as a daily driver , he has a 200r auto transmission in the car and hes only looking for basic dependable transportation on a budget.
https://sdparts.com/i-19928423-gm-e...MIuIDFn6ei6gIVCr3ACh2V_Q5cEAQYAyABEgI2v_D_BwE
more than a few guys find they need basic transportation and are on a tight budget,
obviously the condition of your existing engine and the cost to rebuild it if thats required is a factor,
but in most cases its faster and cheaper too go the crate engine swap rather than ,
rebuild an existing sbc 350 if your goal is simply a car for daily transportation.
Ive helped at least 5 guys in the last 6 years install those crate 350/290 hp/ 300 hp basic crate engines in cars,
most guys have used the engines in daily transportation cars ,
a couple have upgraded the cam, and intake manifold,
swapping to a crane 114132
https://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/sto...&submodel=&engine=&Nrpp=&No=&persistYmm=false
provides a noticeable boost, while still working with all stock brakes and tq converters
https://pitstopusa.com/i-5074450-we...up-vortec-iron-heads.html?ref=category:136231
to boost performance a bit, until recently I could get those engines for about $2k if you paid cash at the local chevy parts counter,
but the manager I knew for decades retired,
now jegs is about the best deal.
keep in mind your damper and flywheel and a few other parts from the existing engine may not interchange,
don,t forget to use a new distributor gear on that new cam and a new water pump either.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Performance/809/19355658/10002/-1
Chevrolet Performance 19355658 Details
350ci/290 Base Engine
Recommended items not included:
Use conventional or break-in oil (non-synthetic) for the first oil change, be sure to check the oil level in the engine and prime the oil system with an engine priming tool.
Engines with flat tappet hydraulic cams only - Run the engine between 2,000 and 2,500 RPM's, with no-load on the engine for the first 30 minutes. This is critical to break in the camshaft.
Drive the vehicle with varying speeds and loads on the engine for the first 30 miles. Be sure not to use a lot of throttle or high RPM. Run five or six medium-throttle accelerations to about 3000 RPM (40 to 50 MPH), then letting off in gear and coasting back down to 20 MPH. Run a couple of hard throttle accelerations up to about 5000 RPM (55 to 60 MPH), then letting off in gear and coasting back down to 20 MPH.
Let the engine cool and change the oil and filter using conventional (non-synthetic) oil and check coolant level, top off if necessary. Drive the next 500 miles normally, without high RPM's (below 5000 RPM), hard use, or extended periods of high loading. Change the oil and oil filter again using conventional (non-synthetic) oil. Keep an eye on oil level during the first thousand or so miles.
It would be suitable to use synthetic motor oil after the second recommended oil change and mileage accumulation.
he uses the car as a daily driver , he has a 200r auto transmission in the car and hes only looking for basic dependable transportation on a budget.
https://sdparts.com/i-19928423-gm-e...MIuIDFn6ei6gIVCr3ACh2V_Q5cEAQYAyABEgI2v_D_BwE
more than a few guys find they need basic transportation and are on a tight budget,
obviously the condition of your existing engine and the cost to rebuild it if thats required is a factor,
but in most cases its faster and cheaper too go the crate engine swap rather than ,
rebuild an existing sbc 350 if your goal is simply a car for daily transportation.
Ive helped at least 5 guys in the last 6 years install those crate 350/290 hp/ 300 hp basic crate engines in cars,
most guys have used the engines in daily transportation cars ,
a couple have upgraded the cam, and intake manifold,
swapping to a crane 114132
https://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/sto...&submodel=&engine=&Nrpp=&No=&persistYmm=false
provides a noticeable boost, while still working with all stock brakes and tq converters
https://pitstopusa.com/i-5074450-we...up-vortec-iron-heads.html?ref=category:136231
to boost performance a bit, until recently I could get those engines for about $2k if you paid cash at the local chevy parts counter,
but the manager I knew for decades retired,
now jegs is about the best deal.
keep in mind your damper and flywheel and a few other parts from the existing engine may not interchange,
don,t forget to use a new distributor gear on that new cam and a new water pump either.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Performance/809/19355658/10002/-1
Chevrolet Performance 19355658 Details
350ci/290 Base Engine
Recommended items not included:
- Carburetor: 809-19170092
- Intake Bolts: 555-83200
- Intake Gaskets: 809-10147994
- Use a neutral balance harmonic damper
- Use an internally balanced flexplate for automatic transmission or flywheel for manual transmission (not included)
- Power ratings based on tests with Holley 670-cfm carburetor (not included)
- Does not accept Chevrolet Performance roller lifter assemblies
- Designed for pre-1976 street vehicles or any off-road vehicle
- Not intended for marine applications
- Pre-1986-style 2-piece rear main seal block
- Recommended for use in vehicles with 6,000-lb GVWR or less
Use conventional or break-in oil (non-synthetic) for the first oil change, be sure to check the oil level in the engine and prime the oil system with an engine priming tool.
Engines with flat tappet hydraulic cams only - Run the engine between 2,000 and 2,500 RPM's, with no-load on the engine for the first 30 minutes. This is critical to break in the camshaft.
Drive the vehicle with varying speeds and loads on the engine for the first 30 miles. Be sure not to use a lot of throttle or high RPM. Run five or six medium-throttle accelerations to about 3000 RPM (40 to 50 MPH), then letting off in gear and coasting back down to 20 MPH. Run a couple of hard throttle accelerations up to about 5000 RPM (55 to 60 MPH), then letting off in gear and coasting back down to 20 MPH.
Let the engine cool and change the oil and filter using conventional (non-synthetic) oil and check coolant level, top off if necessary. Drive the next 500 miles normally, without high RPM's (below 5000 RPM), hard use, or extended periods of high loading. Change the oil and oil filter again using conventional (non-synthetic) oil. Keep an eye on oil level during the first thousand or so miles.
It would be suitable to use synthetic motor oil after the second recommended oil change and mileage accumulation.
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