how many guys have purchased parts on the counter guys recommendation, that just plain SUCKED!
I know I have a dozen times in the past! theres been dozens of example's
, and its only time and experience that teaches you that doing research is mandatory, to getting the correct components at a decent price.
(unless you have a much more experienced and knowledgeable mentor of course)
now when I was much younger in my late teens and even early 20s , I tended to take the advice of the more experienced older guys , but I very quickly learned that there was a few highly skilled and knowledgeable people and a huge number of basic idiots, scam artists lazy jerks and guys that were absolutely clueless, in the auto repair industry, and that many machine shops had one or two skilled employees and a couple minimum wage counter guys who ARE VERY dangerous too listen to, because they thought they knew a few things, (from listening to previous conversations) that could not eat a life saver candy without detailed instructions, and a two hour class.
example
I had built a serious 496 BBC engine and the first clutch I purchased , at the suggestion of the auto parts counter guy, was a stock replacement , diaphragm clutch, that I'd nearly instantly burned up, as soon as I put decent slicks on the cars 4.88:1 dana rear differential. that component was both a waste of time and money, and when it burned up inside of 30 seconds of use, I was of course at fault, for RACING AND ABUSING THE PARTS.... leason learned.
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/a-brief-look-at-clutches.447/
the combo of decent traction and well over 650 ft lbs of torque turned the clutch disc into flakes of clutch disc shaped charcoal.
I at first took the counter guys advice and bought a replacement disc and had the billet 36 lb steel flywheel and clutch pressure plate refinished, after reassembly I went out and tried it out......you guys might have seen this result coming.... I nearly instantly turned the new clutch disc into flakes of clutch disc shaped charcoal.
heres a picture I found of myself back in about 1973
I only then, did I think things through a bit and I went too one of my old more knowledgeable friends (this guy was old and experienced he was like 40 something) who had actually been a race car mechanic back in thew early 1960s for BOBBY JOHNS, and asked detailed questions, and he suggested I have a custom 11" BORG AND BECK clutch pressure plate built, and a top quality 11" race style disc, to match.
the local clutch re-builder was reluctant to put all the strongest springs he had in the pressure plate as he stated I better have the seat firmly bolted to the car frame and understand that I would need to apply a great deal more pressure to the clutch petal to get the clutch to dis-engage, while he was correct that there was a very noticeable increase in the effort required, to depress the clutch, it also resulted in a clutch that lasted for several months.
you can have stiffer springs installed in a clutch pressure plate that can significantly increase the clamp loads, this tends to increase petal effort but also increases clutch life in most cases
most of these BORG & BECK clutch pressure plate's don,t use the stiff springs or for that matter springs in all locations in that pressure plate.
This type of clutch will increase the pedal effort in order to achieve the extra holding power, and may require strengthening of your clutch linkage components for proper operation. Roller, or centrifugal assist models are available for non-shifting applications such as clutch less transmissions, or where shifting is done below 6000 RPM.
I know I have a dozen times in the past! theres been dozens of example's
, and its only time and experience that teaches you that doing research is mandatory, to getting the correct components at a decent price.
(unless you have a much more experienced and knowledgeable mentor of course)
now when I was much younger in my late teens and even early 20s , I tended to take the advice of the more experienced older guys , but I very quickly learned that there was a few highly skilled and knowledgeable people and a huge number of basic idiots, scam artists lazy jerks and guys that were absolutely clueless, in the auto repair industry, and that many machine shops had one or two skilled employees and a couple minimum wage counter guys who ARE VERY dangerous too listen to, because they thought they knew a few things, (from listening to previous conversations) that could not eat a life saver candy without detailed instructions, and a two hour class.
example
I had built a serious 496 BBC engine and the first clutch I purchased , at the suggestion of the auto parts counter guy, was a stock replacement , diaphragm clutch, that I'd nearly instantly burned up, as soon as I put decent slicks on the cars 4.88:1 dana rear differential. that component was both a waste of time and money, and when it burned up inside of 30 seconds of use, I was of course at fault, for RACING AND ABUSING THE PARTS.... leason learned.
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/a-brief-look-at-clutches.447/
the combo of decent traction and well over 650 ft lbs of torque turned the clutch disc into flakes of clutch disc shaped charcoal.
I at first took the counter guys advice and bought a replacement disc and had the billet 36 lb steel flywheel and clutch pressure plate refinished, after reassembly I went out and tried it out......you guys might have seen this result coming.... I nearly instantly turned the new clutch disc into flakes of clutch disc shaped charcoal.
heres a picture I found of myself back in about 1973
I only then, did I think things through a bit and I went too one of my old more knowledgeable friends (this guy was old and experienced he was like 40 something) who had actually been a race car mechanic back in thew early 1960s for BOBBY JOHNS, and asked detailed questions, and he suggested I have a custom 11" BORG AND BECK clutch pressure plate built, and a top quality 11" race style disc, to match.
the local clutch re-builder was reluctant to put all the strongest springs he had in the pressure plate as he stated I better have the seat firmly bolted to the car frame and understand that I would need to apply a great deal more pressure to the clutch petal to get the clutch to dis-engage, while he was correct that there was a very noticeable increase in the effort required, to depress the clutch, it also resulted in a clutch that lasted for several months.
you can have stiffer springs installed in a clutch pressure plate that can significantly increase the clamp loads, this tends to increase petal effort but also increases clutch life in most cases
most of these BORG & BECK clutch pressure plate's don,t use the stiff springs or for that matter springs in all locations in that pressure plate.
This type of clutch will increase the pedal effort in order to achieve the extra holding power, and may require strengthening of your clutch linkage components for proper operation. Roller, or centrifugal assist models are available for non-shifting applications such as clutch less transmissions, or where shifting is done below 6000 RPM.
