READ THE LINKS, POSTED IN THIS THREAD and their sub links ALSO
Almost all engine combos run best, and have the least wear and emissions when your running a 180F-190F t-stat and the engine coolant temp stays in the 180F-210 f range, most of the time.
keep in mind a t-stat does not limit the cooler coolant entering the engine, its function is to keep the coolant flow through the engine minimized until its absorbed enough heat to reach the t-stats opening temp that allows the coolant to flow out of the engine.
oil temp should reach and at least occasionally exceed 215F to burn off moisture in the oil,and prevent acids forming in the oil,and anything over 190F and under about 240F on oil temp will be ok, with 210-215F about ideal.
carburetor equipped engine combos usually run best with a 180F t-stat, but occasionally a 160F t-stat will be better, keep in mind the t-stat only controls WHEN the radiator and water pump reach full flow rates, its the radiator and water pump, oil system, and oil pan config, that generally control the rate of heat exchange and engine temp. as they provide much of the heat transfer.
keep in mind the better synthetic oils reduce friction and that tends to reduce heat in the valve train, which is a significant source of engine heat.
and keeping the oil flow moving, absorbing and transferring heat in the engine tends to both increase durability and if you think about it cooling the rings, bearings,pistons and valve train will do a good deal towards reducing engine temperatures
Ive had good results with a 200F T-stat with the holes drilled (READ THE LINK) but many guys select a 180F t-stat.
its best to start planing an effective cooling system with some basic facts,
you'll want to have the largest surface area to maximize heat transfer from hot engine coolant to outside air flow as the physical clearances allow and your budget can support
OK, lets think about the basics, theres several steps in the process ,an engine generates heat thru combustion and friction, oil flowing over the heated surfaces should lubricate and absorb and transfer a good deal of the heat to the oil, oil flowing over the block should help transfer heat to the coolant in the block.
obviously an oil cooler, if correctly sized and designed with a separate electrical fan can be used to reduce oil temps, and a 7-9 quart oil pan can act as a reservoir of engine oil , cooling the oil before its pumped back to the bearings and moving parts allows that oil to absorb more heat, during its trip thru the engine
most t-stats work by by having a thermo reactive wax that starts to expand at a set temperature , then over about 10F-20F it continues to expand,and allow heated coolant to flow to the radiator, thus the t-stat will remain closed until its rated temperature range is reached and it will open wider up to its fully open position over about a 2-5 minute time frame
the more surface area and coolant volume the radiator has the more potential it has to transfer heat to outside air flow
the shroud definitely helps cooling efficiency, SIGNIFICANTLY,if you don,t have one shop carefully and buy one , if your bucks down visit a salvage yard , measure carefully and buy one used they are commonly under $30
modify it as required to fit
\
IN both the big block and small block engine in most configurations ,(the LT1-LT4 uses reverse flow where the heads get coolant first)
IN MOST CHEVY V8s COOLANT FLOWS in to the front of the lower block,from the two exit ports in the water pump,
these two pictures, below just point out common coolant flow routes
where it separated into the two cylinder banks,where it travels along the cylinder walls,
once the lower blocks full, then coolant travels upward through the holes in the block deck into the heads where it travels ,
around the combustion chambers and under the valve train,where the majority of engine heat is produced, then it back forward ,
where the flow of coolant enters a forward intake manifold passage to reach the t-stat , there it recombines from from each bank, flows up through the t-stat and back into the upper radiator
thus rear intake manifold coolant ports, between the cylinder heads, have nearly no,or any effect or restriction to engine cooling, look at the diagram
adding an aux oil cooler with its own electrical fan,and ideally a transmission fluid cooler with its own electrical fan, would significantly reduce the heat load on the radiator and engine coolant
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=5607
obviously the number of tubes, the total amount of coolant in the radiator and the surface area of the fins effects the radiators ability to transfer heat efficiently to the out side air flow, but the coolant in a properly designed radiator is forced into constant and repeated turbulent contact with the metal surfaces of the tubing, which is a flattened oval with a high surface area to volume ratio, and if the fins surface area and the air flow rates thru the fins are set up correctly rapid transfer of the coolants heat to the outside air is easily achieved, and heat transfer to the fins and air flow is fairly rapid and efficient.
You occasionally hear someone suggest that without a T-stat coolant flow thru thee radiator is going to be too rapid to allow heat to dissipate, this is a myth, keep in mind if you slow coolant flow through the radiator youve also slowed coolant flow thru the block so the coolants forced to absorb more heat , which is more difficult as its already hotter. YOU can,t force coolant thru the radiator so fast that it wont allow the heat transfer with any normal automotive water pump, in a decent radiator, so the higher the rate of coolant flow the better, obviously you can,t effectively transfer heat unless theres a rapid flow of cooler air to absorb that heat so your fans and duct work are also critical to effective cooling.
on some cooling systems a t-stat is mandatory or the water pump can,t control coolant flow as efficiently.
problems will occur if the radiator coolant tubes fill with corrosion,if you fail to use antifreeze which contains anti corrosives or the tubes flowing coolant get plugged with debris or the radiator fins used to transfer heat to outside air, get clogged or bent your reducing air or coolant flow rates
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=5607
NEXT theres the coolant in the block, radiator, and the water pump that moves the coolant thru the block, which is used to absorb and transfer heat to the radiator where air flow over the radiator surface is used to dissipate the heat to the outside air. and the fans and duct work are used to direct that air flow, effectively.
as a general rule, the larger the surface area of the radiator and the longer the coolant takes to flow thru the radiator the more of its heat can be transferred to the outside air, and the faster the air travels over the radiator surface, and the greater the volume of that air, the more heat it can absorb.
if you think about this process it should become obvious that the larger the radiator surface area is and the more air flow you can efficiently force thru the radiator the more heat can be transferred to the outside air flow.
the heat generated by an engine increases with the RPM and torque loads applied, because both friction and combustion heat loads generated tend too increase.
a correctly designed and ducted radiator can direct a great deal of air over the radiator fins, to efficiently transfer heat from the coolant to the air flow. The thermostat is designed to limit and meter, the amount of that air cooled, coolant re-entering the engine, to maintain the desired operational temp range, ideally that means that the radiator can cool the coolant well below the thermostats opening temp limit , so it only opens and adds cooled coolant as required , to drop the engine temps, to the desired level allowing the thermostat to close until the engine heat again exceeds the thermostats opening threshold.
but as heat loads are increased the radiators ability to handle the increases must be available or heat levels with continue to rise.
a thermostat has little or no effect on the coolant temp once that coolant temp exceeds the thermostats opening temps , its purpose is to restrict and limit excess, cool coolant, from the radiator, entering the engine,and resulting in the engine running too cool. once the thermostat has opened the radiators ability to transfer heat to the air must exceed the engines ability to generate heat, or it will rapidly over run the radiators ability to dissipate heat, and the engine heat will continue to increase
.[/color]
there is a great deal more related info in these threads
https://www.dewitts.com/collections/corvette-aluminum-radiators
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=4230&p=11173#p11173
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techa ... index.html
http://www.familycar.com/Classroom/CoolingSystem.htm
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki ... ing_system
http://www.familycar.com/Classroom/CoolingSystem.htm
http://www.circletrack.com/enginetech/c ... index.html
viewtopic.php?f=54&t=296
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=4230&p=13590&hilit=smaller+displacement#p13590
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=2756&p=14146&hilit=duct+shroud#p14146
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=6888&p=22453&hilit=radiator+fin+count#p22453
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=4701&p=19139&hilit=aluminum+radiator#p19139
http://www.ifitjams.com/radiator.htm
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=1540
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=755
http://www.circletrack.com/enginetech/c ... index.html
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=348
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=2140
http://www.2carpros.com/how_does_it_work/cooling.htm
http://www.meineke.com/stuff_about_cars ... ooling.asp
https://durathermfluids.com/pdf/techpapers/pressure-boiling-point.pdf
look thru, and read this linked info, the links help
Cooling system basics
ENGINES generate HEAT thru FRICTION and COMBUSTION, the combustion heat is about 60% of the heat, but many people don’t realize that the valve springs and valve train and bearings and associated friction also cause a significant percentage of the heat, and that OIL FLOW absorbs and transfers much of that heat to the engine block and oil pan sump, where that heats absorbed by the coolant or air flow around the engine and oil pan, or transferred to an oil cooler, and back to either the air flow or coolant and that it’s the oil, that in many cases protects and transfers heat from many of the hotter components like valves, bearings, piston rings, pistons and valve springs.
that hot oil running over and forming a protective, often pressurized film, between the moving parts prevents direct contact of metal parts, but that oil also absorbs heat and transfers it thru the engine where the COOLANT absorbs and transports the heat to the radiator, where its transferred to the air flow around , and under the car.
the longer the coolant remains in the radiator the more heat it can transfer to the air flow, so the larger the effective surface area of the radiator and the faster the air flow thru that radiator the more effective the heat transfer can be, thats one reason multi pass radiators, thicker radiator coil designs and more fins per inch of surface area and aluminum with its high thermal transfer rate is used, in better radiators.
It should be rather obvious that the FAN is used to PULL air in large quantity thru the radiator so that air can absorb and transfer heat from the coolant in the radiator to that air flow. radiator shrouds or duct work significantly add to the fans ability to pull air thru the radiator fins surface, increasing the ability to transfer heat to the air flow. And that the fan is necessary at lower speeds where pressure of the air in front of the car at low speeds is not sufficient to force enough volume of the air thru the radiator to remove/absorb heat from the coolant. Coolant is forced thru the passages in the heads and block to absorb and transfer heat to the radiator by the water pump, in a closed loop.
The thermostat is a temp. Activated gate that opens fully only after a pre- set temp. Level is exceeded so that the engine reaches and maintains a designed temp range.
What many people don’t know or under stand is that both the volume of coolant in both the radiator and engine and the flow rates of that coolant are critical to its efficient function.
Standard fans rotate and pull air thru the radiator in direct relation to the engine rpm level, but unfortunately the air friction loads go up, as rpms increase faster than the fans pump air effectively at some rpm levels.
Clutch fans are designed, in many cases to spin the fan mechanically from the crankshaft rotation, via, a belt drive that limits the rpms to the point where air resistance equals a fluid couplings friction levels, this allows the fan to work at low & mid rpms, but effectively slip as the loads on the blades from air friction become higher lowering the engines loss, compared to a direct drive fan.
FLEX fans accomplish a similar reduction in engine load rates thru a change in fan blade angle of attack due to a reduced effective, working surface area.
WATER tends to absorb and transfer heat slightly better than anti-freeze but it’s far more conductive to electrolysis and corrosion, so a 50%/50% mix is usually used in radiators to prevent engine damage.
IN a correctly set up engine the oil flow over the valve springs, bearings and rockers, absorbs and transfers a good deal of the engine heat and the use of an oil cooler for engine oil and a TRANSMISSION COOLER if you've got an automatic transmission can and does lower the heat loads on the coolant system. A baffled 7-8 qt oil pan can dissipate a great deal of the engines heat!
BTW one frequently overlooked factor, in cooling your engine or adding an additional oil cooler, is your alternator size,in amps and wiring the alternator correctly, if your running a 70amp-100 amp stock alternator and using electric fans to cool the engine,its not going to provide the power required to spin the fans nearly fast enough to cool the engine like a better 200 amp alternator can
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BRA-1888/ (standard)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BRA-1688/ (counter clock)
https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/chartsguides/a/aaz-55-11111.pdf
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/engine-water-pumps.832/#post-3768
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/engine-water-pumps.832/#post-3768
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/swivel-thermostat-housing.9489/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/correct-thermostat.5607/#post-26544
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=149
http://www.s-10crewcab.com/~henryj/fans/fans.html
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm? ... zm_641.jpg
TESTING
viewtopic.php?f=54&t=2093
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=940
Almost all engine combos run best, and have the least wear and emissions when your running a 180F-190F t-stat and the engine coolant temp stays in the 180F-210 f range, most of the time.
keep in mind a t-stat does not limit the cooler coolant entering the engine, its function is to keep the coolant flow through the engine minimized until its absorbed enough heat to reach the t-stats opening temp that allows the coolant to flow out of the engine.
oil temp should reach and at least occasionally exceed 215F to burn off moisture in the oil,and prevent acids forming in the oil,and anything over 190F and under about 240F on oil temp will be ok, with 210-215F about ideal.
carburetor equipped engine combos usually run best with a 180F t-stat, but occasionally a 160F t-stat will be better, keep in mind the t-stat only controls WHEN the radiator and water pump reach full flow rates, its the radiator and water pump, oil system, and oil pan config, that generally control the rate of heat exchange and engine temp. as they provide much of the heat transfer.
keep in mind the better synthetic oils reduce friction and that tends to reduce heat in the valve train, which is a significant source of engine heat.
and keeping the oil flow moving, absorbing and transferring heat in the engine tends to both increase durability and if you think about it cooling the rings, bearings,pistons and valve train will do a good deal towards reducing engine temperatures
Ive had good results with a 200F T-stat with the holes drilled (READ THE LINK) but many guys select a 180F t-stat.
its best to start planing an effective cooling system with some basic facts,
you'll want to have the largest surface area to maximize heat transfer from hot engine coolant to outside air flow as the physical clearances allow and your budget can support
OK, lets think about the basics, theres several steps in the process ,an engine generates heat thru combustion and friction, oil flowing over the heated surfaces should lubricate and absorb and transfer a good deal of the heat to the oil, oil flowing over the block should help transfer heat to the coolant in the block.
obviously an oil cooler, if correctly sized and designed with a separate electrical fan can be used to reduce oil temps, and a 7-9 quart oil pan can act as a reservoir of engine oil , cooling the oil before its pumped back to the bearings and moving parts allows that oil to absorb more heat, during its trip thru the engine
most t-stats work by by having a thermo reactive wax that starts to expand at a set temperature , then over about 10F-20F it continues to expand,and allow heated coolant to flow to the radiator, thus the t-stat will remain closed until its rated temperature range is reached and it will open wider up to its fully open position over about a 2-5 minute time frame
the more surface area and coolant volume the radiator has the more potential it has to transfer heat to outside air flow
the shroud definitely helps cooling efficiency, SIGNIFICANTLY,if you don,t have one shop carefully and buy one , if your bucks down visit a salvage yard , measure carefully and buy one used they are commonly under $30
modify it as required to fit
IN both the big block and small block engine in most configurations ,(the LT1-LT4 uses reverse flow where the heads get coolant first)
IN MOST CHEVY V8s COOLANT FLOWS in to the front of the lower block,from the two exit ports in the water pump,
these two pictures, below just point out common coolant flow routes
where it separated into the two cylinder banks,where it travels along the cylinder walls,
once the lower blocks full, then coolant travels upward through the holes in the block deck into the heads where it travels ,
around the combustion chambers and under the valve train,where the majority of engine heat is produced, then it back forward ,
where the flow of coolant enters a forward intake manifold passage to reach the t-stat , there it recombines from from each bank, flows up through the t-stat and back into the upper radiator
thus rear intake manifold coolant ports, between the cylinder heads, have nearly no,or any effect or restriction to engine cooling, look at the diagram
transmission cooler info and derale trans cool pans,
OVERLY HOT TRANS FLUID TEMPERATURE QUICKLY KILLS, A TRANSMISSION, SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCING TRANSMISSION DURABILITY, AND I'D POINT OUT THAT REDUCING THE TEMPERATURE OF TRANSMISSION FLUID ENTERING A RADIATOR HELPS REDUCE HEAT LOADS ON THE RADIATOR ,WHICH TENDS TO REDUCE ENGINE OPERATIONAL TEMPS...
garage.grumpysperformance.com
thoughts on cooling
The Moroso Stand Alone Twin Tube Heatsink style Transmission Cooler has been Great on the 1963 Gp Grumpy. I have never seen over 120F trans temps. Checked with my Inferred Laser Temp gun. And touching by hand. Even after 120-130 mph joyrides ! No fan needed on it. I don't have a 4000-5550 rpm...
garage.grumpysperformance.com
adding an aux oil cooler with its own electrical fan,and ideally a transmission fluid cooler with its own electrical fan, would significantly reduce the heat load on the radiator and engine coolant
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=5607
obviously the number of tubes, the total amount of coolant in the radiator and the surface area of the fins effects the radiators ability to transfer heat efficiently to the out side air flow, but the coolant in a properly designed radiator is forced into constant and repeated turbulent contact with the metal surfaces of the tubing, which is a flattened oval with a high surface area to volume ratio, and if the fins surface area and the air flow rates thru the fins are set up correctly rapid transfer of the coolants heat to the outside air is easily achieved, and heat transfer to the fins and air flow is fairly rapid and efficient.
You occasionally hear someone suggest that without a T-stat coolant flow thru thee radiator is going to be too rapid to allow heat to dissipate, this is a myth, keep in mind if you slow coolant flow through the radiator youve also slowed coolant flow thru the block so the coolants forced to absorb more heat , which is more difficult as its already hotter. YOU can,t force coolant thru the radiator so fast that it wont allow the heat transfer with any normal automotive water pump, in a decent radiator, so the higher the rate of coolant flow the better, obviously you can,t effectively transfer heat unless theres a rapid flow of cooler air to absorb that heat so your fans and duct work are also critical to effective cooling.
on some cooling systems a t-stat is mandatory or the water pump can,t control coolant flow as efficiently.
problems will occur if the radiator coolant tubes fill with corrosion,if you fail to use antifreeze which contains anti corrosives or the tubes flowing coolant get plugged with debris or the radiator fins used to transfer heat to outside air, get clogged or bent your reducing air or coolant flow rates
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=5607
NEXT theres the coolant in the block, radiator, and the water pump that moves the coolant thru the block, which is used to absorb and transfer heat to the radiator where air flow over the radiator surface is used to dissipate the heat to the outside air. and the fans and duct work are used to direct that air flow, effectively.
as a general rule, the larger the surface area of the radiator and the longer the coolant takes to flow thru the radiator the more of its heat can be transferred to the outside air, and the faster the air travels over the radiator surface, and the greater the volume of that air, the more heat it can absorb.
if you think about this process it should become obvious that the larger the radiator surface area is and the more air flow you can efficiently force thru the radiator the more heat can be transferred to the outside air flow.
the heat generated by an engine increases with the RPM and torque loads applied, because both friction and combustion heat loads generated tend too increase.
a correctly designed and ducted radiator can direct a great deal of air over the radiator fins, to efficiently transfer heat from the coolant to the air flow. The thermostat is designed to limit and meter, the amount of that air cooled, coolant re-entering the engine, to maintain the desired operational temp range, ideally that means that the radiator can cool the coolant well below the thermostats opening temp limit , so it only opens and adds cooled coolant as required , to drop the engine temps, to the desired level allowing the thermostat to close until the engine heat again exceeds the thermostats opening threshold.
but as heat loads are increased the radiators ability to handle the increases must be available or heat levels with continue to rise.
a thermostat has little or no effect on the coolant temp once that coolant temp exceeds the thermostats opening temps , its purpose is to restrict and limit excess, cool coolant, from the radiator, entering the engine,and resulting in the engine running too cool. once the thermostat has opened the radiators ability to transfer heat to the air must exceed the engines ability to generate heat, or it will rapidly over run the radiators ability to dissipate heat, and the engine heat will continue to increase
.[/color]
there is a great deal more related info in these threads
https://www.dewitts.com/collections/corvette-aluminum-radiators
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=4230&p=11173#p11173
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techa ... index.html
http://www.familycar.com/Classroom/CoolingSystem.htm
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki ... ing_system
http://www.familycar.com/Classroom/CoolingSystem.htm
http://www.circletrack.com/enginetech/c ... index.html
viewtopic.php?f=54&t=296
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=4230&p=13590&hilit=smaller+displacement#p13590
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=2756&p=14146&hilit=duct+shroud#p14146
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=6888&p=22453&hilit=radiator+fin+count#p22453
Home - Stewart Components
www.stewartcomponents.com
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=4701&p=19139&hilit=aluminum+radiator#p19139
http://www.ifitjams.com/radiator.htm
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=1540
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=755
http://www.circletrack.com/enginetech/c ... index.html
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=348
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=2140
http://www.2carpros.com/how_does_it_work/cooling.htm
http://www.meineke.com/stuff_about_cars ... ooling.asp
https://durathermfluids.com/pdf/techpapers/pressure-boiling-point.pdf
look thru, and read this linked info, the links help
Cooling system basics
ENGINES generate HEAT thru FRICTION and COMBUSTION, the combustion heat is about 60% of the heat, but many people don’t realize that the valve springs and valve train and bearings and associated friction also cause a significant percentage of the heat, and that OIL FLOW absorbs and transfers much of that heat to the engine block and oil pan sump, where that heats absorbed by the coolant or air flow around the engine and oil pan, or transferred to an oil cooler, and back to either the air flow or coolant and that it’s the oil, that in many cases protects and transfers heat from many of the hotter components like valves, bearings, piston rings, pistons and valve springs.
that hot oil running over and forming a protective, often pressurized film, between the moving parts prevents direct contact of metal parts, but that oil also absorbs heat and transfers it thru the engine where the COOLANT absorbs and transports the heat to the radiator, where its transferred to the air flow around , and under the car.
the longer the coolant remains in the radiator the more heat it can transfer to the air flow, so the larger the effective surface area of the radiator and the faster the air flow thru that radiator the more effective the heat transfer can be, thats one reason multi pass radiators, thicker radiator coil designs and more fins per inch of surface area and aluminum with its high thermal transfer rate is used, in better radiators.
It should be rather obvious that the FAN is used to PULL air in large quantity thru the radiator so that air can absorb and transfer heat from the coolant in the radiator to that air flow. radiator shrouds or duct work significantly add to the fans ability to pull air thru the radiator fins surface, increasing the ability to transfer heat to the air flow. And that the fan is necessary at lower speeds where pressure of the air in front of the car at low speeds is not sufficient to force enough volume of the air thru the radiator to remove/absorb heat from the coolant. Coolant is forced thru the passages in the heads and block to absorb and transfer heat to the radiator by the water pump, in a closed loop.
The thermostat is a temp. Activated gate that opens fully only after a pre- set temp. Level is exceeded so that the engine reaches and maintains a designed temp range.
What many people don’t know or under stand is that both the volume of coolant in both the radiator and engine and the flow rates of that coolant are critical to its efficient function.
Standard fans rotate and pull air thru the radiator in direct relation to the engine rpm level, but unfortunately the air friction loads go up, as rpms increase faster than the fans pump air effectively at some rpm levels.
Clutch fans are designed, in many cases to spin the fan mechanically from the crankshaft rotation, via, a belt drive that limits the rpms to the point where air resistance equals a fluid couplings friction levels, this allows the fan to work at low & mid rpms, but effectively slip as the loads on the blades from air friction become higher lowering the engines loss, compared to a direct drive fan.
FLEX fans accomplish a similar reduction in engine load rates thru a change in fan blade angle of attack due to a reduced effective, working surface area.
WATER tends to absorb and transfer heat slightly better than anti-freeze but it’s far more conductive to electrolysis and corrosion, so a 50%/50% mix is usually used in radiators to prevent engine damage.
IN a correctly set up engine the oil flow over the valve springs, bearings and rockers, absorbs and transfers a good deal of the engine heat and the use of an oil cooler for engine oil and a TRANSMISSION COOLER if you've got an automatic transmission can and does lower the heat loads on the coolant system. A baffled 7-8 qt oil pan can dissipate a great deal of the engines heat!
BTW one frequently overlooked factor, in cooling your engine or adding an additional oil cooler, is your alternator size,in amps and wiring the alternator correctly, if your running a 70amp-100 amp stock alternator and using electric fans to cool the engine,its not going to provide the power required to spin the fans nearly fast enough to cool the engine like a better 200 amp alternator can
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BRA-1888/ (standard)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BRA-1688/ (counter clock)
https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/chartsguides/a/aaz-55-11111.pdf
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/engine-water-pumps.832/#post-3768
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/engine-water-pumps.832/#post-3768
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/swivel-thermostat-housing.9489/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/correct-thermostat.5607/#post-26544
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=149
http://www.s-10crewcab.com/~henryj/fans/fans.html
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm? ... zm_641.jpg
TESTING
viewtopic.php?f=54&t=2093
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=940
Last edited by a moderator: