how to increase a 454 displacement

grumpyvette

Administrator
Staff member
jim said:
thank you, so what would a 454 bored to its max equate to in cubic inches.
thanks jim

most guys who want to significantly increase the displacement of a 454 big block swap a 4.25" stroker crank and a .030, or .060 over bore pistons and 6.385" connecting rods, that results in a 489-496 displacement with reasonable durability in most cases.
most of the 454 engines built that youll find in 1973 and newer vehicles were for trucks and motor homes and have mild cams and low compression, many have peanut port heads which are designed for low rpm torque.
match that with a carefully selected set of cylinder heads in the 270cc-315cc range and around 10.1-10.5.1 compression and a cam in the 235-250 duration range with a rear gear, and manual transmission or about a 3000rpm stall torque converter, to match the intended power band, and you get impressive increases in power.obviously the exact combo must be carefully researched so the parts used match the application and gearing, and getting from a stock 270hp-360hp in a low performance truck or motor home 454, to well over 450hp-600hp, with higher compression, better heads and a decent cam etc. is not difficult with the correct combo of parts

a 454 has a 4.251" bore and a 4" stroke
you can calculate a v8 engine displacement, with the following quick formula

most big block blocks will take a .060 over bore without issue some will take .100 but your almost sure to have very thin bore walls that won,t seal the rings well, and keep in mind many of those blocks have internal water passage rust issues after all many are 25-30 plus years old

bore x bore x stroke times 8 x .7854= displacement
example
a 4.310 " x 4.310" x 4.25" x 8 x .7854=496 cubic inches

read these links and sub links, as they contain a great deal more related info,
yeah! I know most of you will ignore the links, but the guys that don,t will generally have a big advantage


viewtopic.php?f=69&t=1420

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=752&p=13184&hilit=mark+differences#p13184

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=710&p=990&hilit=mark+differences#p990

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=4576&p=12177&hilit=mark+differences#p12177

viewtopic.php?f=69&t=5123

http://www.maliburacing.com/patrick_budd_article.htm

viewtopic.php?f=69&t=6125

viewtopic.php?f=69&t=189

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=204

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=509

viewtopic.php?f=69&t=2900&p=44502&hilit=peanut+port#p44502

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=9986&p=38689&hilit=scat+cranks#p38689

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=4419&p=11637&hilit=scat+cranks#p11637

viewtopic.php?f=38&t=3900&p=10338&hilit=scat+cranks#p10338

viewtopic.php?f=103&t=10266&p=41327&hilit=scat+cranks#p41327

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=1989&p=5376&hilit=scat+cranks#p5376

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=10548&p=44903&hilit=mark+scat#p44903

BUY A FEW REFERENCE BOOKS ITS MONEY VERY WELL SPENT

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THE Scat 9000 ,cast steel crank Scat I beam rods with 7/16" rod bolts and forged pistons is all you need on a hot performance engine 496 BBC street car. As far as internal or external balance. you can Go with whatever is cost effective with what parts you have, but ID sure select 6.385" length connecting rods Either ,internal or external balancing will work with a street car, but internally balance in theory has an edge with less internal vibration.

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=992&p=1761&hilit=scat+block+crank#p1761

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=5078&p=14433&hilit=scat+block+crank#p14433

please post lots of clear , detailed pictures of your progress,, take your time and get the clearances correct and use lots of assembly lube or you may regret rushing thru the process later

READING THRU these links should help
http://www.chevydiy.com/select-parts-big-block-chevrolet-engine-rebuild/

http://www.chevydiy.com/rebuild-big-block-chevrolet-engine-step-step-startup-guide/

http://www.chevydiy.com/big-block-chevrolet-engine-step-step-rebuid-cleaning-guide/

http://www.chevydiy.com/rebuild-big-block-chevrolet-engine-step-step-inspection-guide/

http://www.chevydiy.com/build-chevy-big-blocks-complete-assembly-guide/

http://www.chevydiy.com/big-block-chevrolet-engine-step-step-rebuid-machine-shop-guide/

http://www.chevydiy.com/74-final-assembly-steps-big-block-chevy-engine-rebuild/

http://www.chevydiy.com/gaskets-fasteners-guide-big-block-chevy-engines/

http://www.chevydiy.com/camshafts-lifters-valvetrain-components-guide-chevy-big-blocks/

http://www.chevydiy.com/awesome-chevy-big-block-builds-9-examples/


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viewtopic.php?f=53&t=9955

http://scatcrankshafts.com/#6
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yeah! scat makes forged rotating assembly's and most of the aftermarket head, and cam, manufacturers make heads and cams that will allow you to reach that 600 hp goal with that mark 5 block, the chevy MARK V block is seldom the weak point in a big block build when the goals 600hp or less, Ive had zero issues using them at that power level.
yeah! I know most of the readers will ignore reading the sub links, those that take the effort will have an advantage
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=87&t=951&p=1627&hilit=mark+single#p1627

viewtopic.php?f=69&t=5123

viewtopic.php?f=69&t=9930

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viewtopic.php?f=52&t=319&p=34886&hilit=oval+port+cast+intake#p34886

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=410&p=8312&hilit=oval+port+cast+intake#p8312

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=752

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=10530
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